FFG Forum Archive

Posted at 2019-07-27 16:47:09+00:00

#29 Been wanting to do this for a while but couldn't decide if it should be a T65, T70 or T85. Well I decided to keep it classic, cheers Mr. McQuarrie. Thank you for your amazing work.

1. Kept the primer light so the details don't get filled in. Mr Hobby helps, the particles are just so fine. But because of that I still did a base coat of white where the original paint was still showing through.

2. I broke my record for thinnest handsfree line on the wings I think. Or maybe it's just the same size which is the tip of the brush. Nerve wracking either way. Had to touch up the white line in the orange stripes on the nose too.

3. Tamiya tape this time for the nose pattern. I also cheated and only did 3 but there are supposed to be 5 stripes. Ssh.

4. Pencil weathering props to Barry Harker for his tips. Some straight up drawn lines but mostly smearing with my finger. For the big flat part under the nose I pencilled my finger first then rubbed it on. Think I over did it though...

White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500

Ceramite White base

Yriel Yellow with a touch of Troll Slayer Orange for the stripes

Administratum Grey and Dawnstone for the other stripes and details

Screaming Skull for the nose

Light Grey Tamiya Panel Liner and a bit of Black

Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual

Posted at 2019-07-29 21:10:29+00:00

Last pic - that blue dot exactly on the rigth point. It's an omen from the Force.

Posted at 2019-07-30 03:49:08+00:00

Or its the closest I'm ever going to get to LEDs in my minis.

Posted at 2019-10-01 07:59:18+00:00

#22 Yeah, my numbering is correct. I did this guy in June but I didn't want to leak this sick update online, but now that the image is out I should be in the clear. Anyway this is based on the images of Ep IX with the Poe's new ride at the back. My cleanest X-Wing due to being all new paint job and stuff. But I really dig how the white came out and the shading on the orange.

1. Mr Hobby's Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 to start again. This stuff is gold.

2. Easy to lay white over the white primer so no issue there. I tried this with Apothecary White Contrast paint but not really feeling it. Just makes it feel thick with not much definition. Maybe because i'm working with the white. I'll give Black Templar a go sometime.

3. The orange went on really easy and the tactic here to get the straight lines is to go with thin lines and try to build towards it. A bit like sculpting. This is because white isn't so easy to cover up mistakes but I still had to do that at a few parts.

4. The blue was easy to go on once the orange was totally dry but challenging to lay down lines that thin with a consistent width. But I did use tape for the small tiny 'stripes'

White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500

White Scar Base

Troll Slayer Orange for the layer

Teclis Blue accents

Mechanicus Standard Grey for engine parts

Tamiya light grey panel liner for the details

Reikland shade over the orange

Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual

Posted at 2020-01-16 13:53:11+00:00

#30! Feel bad for a 6 month hiatus but had some **** to sort out.

Been itching to do up some jedi and finally found the inspiration to get back in the game. Plus it was hard trying to decide which ones to tackle as there are so many options so expect more to come.

1. I picked Ashoka Tano because it seems the most interesting having the need for freehanding the republic logo, plus I thought my little idea to make it my own was kind of neat with the 'headress'

2. Not gonna trust fleshshade for a while, it came out so pink even though i thinned it a lot. So I had to go back over with the Pallid Wych Flesh to bring it back to a ivory color.

3. I got a hold of a tiny fountain pen which i used this time to apply the Tamiya Panel Liner and its awesome. So much more accurate than the brush that comes in the bottle.

4. I used the wrong brush to do the green stripes. Next time will bust out the XS for super small stuff.

5. I took a different tact than most in that I painted the inverse of the pattern. Red goes on a lot easier over white so I slowly filled in the red to leave the pattern. Sure is a lot easier than trying to layer up white over such a dark red.

White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer

a couple of very thin Ulthuan Grey bases just to even out the primer

Pallid Wych Flesh base for a some ivory

Khorne red layer

Carroburg Crimson shade

Thinned Nuln Oil shade

Very thinned Reikland Fleshshade touched up with more Pallid Wych

Ogryn Camo, Dawnstone and Stegadon Scale Green for stripes

Troll Slayer Orange for the engine 'glow'

Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual

dammit China internet. Why aren't those links inline? [EDIT] Fixed! Thanks Zealux. Imgur changed stuff up and tried to get fancy...

Edited January 16, 2020 by Ghosthacked

Posted at 2020-01-16 19:25:27+00:00

5 hours ago, Ghosthacked said:

dammit China internet. Why aren't those links inline?

The links need to end in ".jpg" to be direct image links, then the forum will display them as pictures rather than links.

Also, having taken the time to click the links, Great Job!! Looks fantastic!

Posted at 2020-01-17 01:37:53+00:00

I do have a question, I'm pretty sure i'm using very thin layers. To the point where its a bit runny but yet when I post up these photos it still looks kind of lumpy. and not as smooth as some of the badass talent in here.

What am I doing differently, or not doing. Is it the photography?

Posted at 2020-01-17 17:50:42+00:00

16 hours ago, Ghosthacked said:

I do have a question, I'm pretty sure i'm using very thin layers. To the point where its a bit runny but yet when I post up these photos it still looks kind of lumpy. and not as smooth as some of the badass talent in here.

What am I doing differently, or not doing. Is it the photography?

How are you thinning it? Are you using water or something else? If you are using good paint, you may want to invest in Citadels Lahmian Medium or equivalent, which keeps the pigment together better than water.

How good is your paint? Is it craft store stuff or mini paint? Craft Store paint pigments can separate more easily and get clumpy and runny if too much water is used. This can happen to good paint, too, but it takes more water. Lahmian Medium can help.

Posted at 2020-01-17 17:54:55+00:00

It's all Citadel and I'm using water mostly. I switched from pots to droppers and when i did that I dropped in a bit of Flow-aid to each one.

Yeah I'm thinking maybe to pick up a bottle of medium. Lahmian seems excessive at a few ml each. I might get the Vallejo Matte Medium bottle.

Until then I'll use Lahmian on my next paint and see how it goes.

Thanks!

Edited January 17, 2020 by Ghosthacked

Posted at 2020-04-04 01:33:54+00:00

#31 Trying to get back into the groove after another 3 month break thanks to the world shutting down. But this isn't about me. Oh wait. I've been wanting to move on to some Firesprays but figured I'd tackle something small again to get the feel back. I picked up a fancy little Angel from Shapeways to partner the other Jedi in the pipeline.

1. Followed a lot of Plo repaints for reference. marking out the lines with dots helps a lot.

2. Still trying to struggle with keeping paints thin so that it comes off smoother. Still feels thick.

3. Colored shades are great. Not as harsh as the black from Nuln

4. Tried something new as was told to try coating gloss before busting out the panel liner and it does help but not too thrilled with the final finish even with a final matt coat. Still too glossy as compared to the factory jobs.

5. Did more retouching this time. Taking time to go back and forth a couple times to get those lines straight. It works. Much happier with my edges this time.

White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer
Ceramite White base
White Scar to touch up
Caledor Sky layer
Drakenhof Night(shade) on the blue
Dawnstone for the guns and engines
Very thinned Nuln Oil on the white
Mephiston Red for the R2
Yriel Yellow for the darts
Troll Slayer Orange for the engine 'glow'
Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual

Edited April 4, 2020 by Ghosthacked

Posted at 2020-04-04 23:43:26+00:00

#32 While I was feeling it I knocked out another quick Delta. I figured this one would be really quick and it was. All done within one evening.

1. Really simple, base then block color and wash.

2. I got myself some Corax White base paint to try and see the difference with Ceramite White. Conclusion is I don't like Corax, it goes on kind of thick even when i thinned it and when it dries it has a really rough crumbly finish. Wasted the nice thin primer that I had on.

3. My freehand lines seem to be getting straighter.

4. Was worried about the Nuln wash being too dark but it came out ok. Corax White is actually a bit grey. Still did Tamiya panel liner though as matching factory jobs.

White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer

Corax White base

Evil Sunz Scarlet, Flash Gitz Yellow, Warpstone Glow, Xerus Purple, Dawnstone layers

Very thinned Nuln Oil all over

Troll Slayer Orange for the engine 'glow'

Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual

Posted at 2020-04-05 09:45:19+00:00

#33 Another one done! On a bit of a roll here and feel like a Geonosian factory for the moment.

1. Really simple, base then block color and wash.

2. I did try using Lahmian Medium this time to thin instead of water but find it a bit harder to control the thinness but it does seem a bit more consistent than water.

3. I did 3 coats of the green but still coming out a bit thick i think. Should I be doing more thinner coats?

White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer

Pallid Wych Flesh base

Warboss Green layer

Administratum Grey, Dawnstone and Eshin Grey for the details

Biel-tan Green wash over the green

Very thinned Nuln Oil all over

Troll Slayer Orange for the engine 'glow'

Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual

Posted at 2020-04-05 19:32:32+00:00

Do you use decals for the 'imperial/rebel' markings?

Posted at 2020-04-06 03:00:40+00:00

7 hours ago, LTuser said:

Do you use decals for the 'imperial/rebel' markings?

Which ones?

The BWing rebel logo is freehand, I posted a step by step on how i 'sculpted' it.

The Republic logo on the Delta's is the factory one, i covered it with liquid mask before priming.

I have got some decals but haven't tried them yet.

Posted at 2020-04-07 07:52:28+00:00

On 11/19/2018 at 8:43 AM, Ghosthacked said:

#12 is pretty straightforward, base, layer patterns and nuln oil all over:

1. I was going to paint Fenn Rau's pattern but since 2.0 announced with his pattern then I just sort of randomized another one to match.

2. The hardest part is probably trying to match the base color as it's not a straight grey but has some warm tones. But after the Nuln Oil went on its pretty close.

3. When I was doing the Nuln Oil it left some edges for some reason. I guess it dried faster than i thought? or i went over it too many times to try to clean up the pooling?

4. The Nuln did dull the Yriel Yellow too much so went back over that again to pop it back out.

5. I'll tell you what is huge that made a big difference with this one and the Kath. I got a couple of GW artificer brushes. OMG it really does make a difference. holding the point and no fraying really helps with straight lines. totally worth the investment!

Mix of Ulthuan Grey with Pallid Wych Flesh base all over

Markings in Stegadon Scale Green with Yriel Yellow accents and Abaddon Black for the engine caps

Nuln Oil all over with Tamiya panel lines for t he darker p arts

Did a update to this Fang Fighter. I was really unhappy with the livery. It didn't seem 'right' so changed it up a bit still with the same colors so it won't look out of place flying next to Fenn and the 1.0 Fang.

Posted at 2020-04-07 07:54:42+00:00

#33 Second medium size ship i've done. Kath was the first. This was nowhere near as intensive as Kath, I guess because i didn't spend as much time blocking in individual panels. But step by step it's actually a pretty simple paintjob from a technical aspect. If anybody asks this is a KDY D5 Mantis Patrol Craft from Mel's Miniatures on Shapeways.

1. Colored shades are great, it really helps to smooth out some of the patchyness but still not where I'd like it to be.

2. When working in the color layering very important to work inside out as its a lot easier to do touch ups.

3. Second try with using sponge for weathering and much better this time round vs the first time with Kath. Did quite a bit of touchup with brush as well and part of the trick is going back over again with the opposite color to subtract. The goal is to focus on the edge.

4. Note to self, do sponge weathering before the shading. Was challenging to get the matching colors between layers of wash.

5. First time doing drybrush properly too. Still a bit too wet i think but I think trying to concentrate in a specific area makes it harder. Probably better technique to use on 'higher' surfaces.

6. I was laying on the panel line pretty thick since this ship has a lot of exposed parts. Also tried a bit of this mig Oilbrush which is kind of a dirty brown. Helps to even out the grey with the warm colors in this ship.

7. Not happy with the lights. Guess I need to practice glazing.

Gray Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer

Ulthuan Grey base for upper

Mechanicus Standard Grey base for the underside

Waaagh Flesh layer

Averland Sunset layer

Biel-Tan Green and Casandora Yellow shades

Nuln Oil thick on the greys

Lots of Tamiya Black Panel Line

A bit of Starship Filth mig Oilbrush on the underside

Dawnstone drybrush over that

Flash Gitz Yellow and Temple Guard Blue for the 'lights'

Flash Gitz Yellow for the engine trims

Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual

Edited April 7, 2020 by Ghosthacked

Posted at 2020-04-07 19:09:10+00:00

SWEET!!

I wonder, if someone 'statted' that ship out, what slots/attack/evade it would have?

Posted at 2020-04-08 01:35:41+00:00

I was planning to run it as a firespray.

But I'd say since it technically has 3 forward facing guns, 3 on swivel mounts and 1 out the back that should be 6 front arc and 4 back arc right?!? LOL

Posted at 2020-04-09 01:02:29+00:00

#34 Back to more Jedi. This one is for Kit Fisto in this prototype ETA2 in a Delta 7b config.

1. The freehand details are really hard to keep clear with all the panel lining in the way. So not sure the design can be seen. I outlined it again with the grey

2. I picked this design on this one since it kind of matches the R2 positioned in the center

3. Tried a bit more detail on the R2 this time. Starting to understand how its done but still crazy small.

White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer

Celestra Grey base

Khorne Red layer

Straken Green for the design

White Scar for the R2

Mechanicus Standard Grey for the engines and edging

Athonian Camoshade on the pattern Nuln Oil all over the rest

Troll Slayer Orange for the engine 'glow'

Tamiya Black Panel Line

Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual

Posted at 2020-04-09 01:03:34+00:00

#35 I think I did it! finally got a smooth finish that i'm happy with. Barriss Offee's Delta 7.

1. Real happy with my fine details lining on this one. Figured out how to paint first then subtract back to the surrounding color to get sharp corners and thin lines.

2. I don't know if its the paint but it only took 2 layers and 1 shade to get this nice blue finish.

3. I purposely kept the front white part slimmer too. Makes it look more sleek.

4. This on top of the light gray to get a bit of difference.

5. I think next thing to work on now is being more careful and purposeful when doing the washing.

White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer

Celestra Grey base

Teclis Blue layer

White Scar for the details

Jokaero Orange for the accents

Warpstone Glow for the R2

Drakenhof Nightshade on the blue

Troll Slayer Orange for the engine 'glow'

Tamiya Black Panel Line

Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual

Edited December 26, 2020 by Ghosthacked

Posted at 2020-04-09 11:32:33+00:00

Those are amazing!!! Thanks for sharing those paintjobs, they make the miniatures shine!

Posted at 2020-04-09 12:21:20+00:00

hey! The creator himself. Thank you, that's high praise. I'm glad you're happy with how they turned out.

one note, I had to put in a new peg on the Mantis, the printed hole was too loose.

Posted at 2020-04-13 01:59:22+00:00

#36 Another Jedi break. Was looking at this guy and decided I would try a new technique since it has a nice flat surface that is pretty ideal to train. Enter, blending!

1. So blending, mostly wet, i tried with the gradient running the length of the ship but decided to switch is around and i'm surprised at how thin the paint actually gets because there must be at least 8 layers here but it doesn't look thick at all.

2. I believe the trick here is it works better when there is a decent amount of contrast between the blends. When i did it running the length it was really subtle and then once i did the detail over it I totally lost the gradient. But once I hit the front mandibles with near white the blend really came alive.

3. Wet palette check, Vallejo retarder medium check, Vallejo glaze medium check, Liquitex flow-aid check and almost the full range of my greys from white to black. It really is a matter of putting the paint on and being brave to experiment.

4. First time i busted out my new bottle of Liquitex ink. I felt my Abaddon black didn't seem as dark as the surrounding greys and the ink really pops it just a bit more.

5. Back to decals again and I really like the extra finish that they give. But the lesson is to make sure to work fast and work accurately. had a couple of goof ups where i poked too much with the solvent and chipped off paint down to the primer. Also lost one decal completely because i couldn't get it in the right position and had to scrape it off.

6. First attempt at engine glow. Good advice to follow working from dark to light. 'dark' meaning bright blue and light meaning complete white right in the center.

7. If you're wondering, the kanji reads Shinobi.

Black Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer

Eshin Grey base

Abaddon black - Corvus black - Eshin grey - Mechanicus Standard grey - Administratum grey - Celestra grey - Ceramite white wet blend layers

Ceramite white and Mephiston red for the stripes

Lothern Blue and Ceramite White for the engine glow

Tamiya Black Panel Line

Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual

Posted at 2020-04-14 04:33:23+00:00

#37 Here you go! As voted in a totally democratic method the highest voted color scheme was a dark Sith type Delta 7. I'm gonna say this is flown by Master Pong Krell if he can fit, or Sifo Dyas if he is actually darkside.

1. I initially wanted to do a blend again but wasn't feeling it since this is meant to be all black. Interesting side effect was going over in ****** Abbadon black seemed to give this nice gun metal sheen that you can see on the bottom. But the next day after it fully dried the effect was gone.

2. I think I have figured out the right thinness for these layers but yes, what people say is true. this consistency is very different for different paints.

3. The most interesting thing I discovered is that every Delta 7 actually has a Sith logo right on the nose! check it out.

4. Also tried something else new, for the canopy I went over the black with 2 layers of Spiritstone red instead of Aardcoat to get a bit of a red tint.

White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer

Abbadon black base

Eshin Grey layer

Mephiston Red for the details

Carroburg Crimson on the bottom and Nuln Oil all over

Troll Slayer Orange for the engine 'glow'

Tamiya Black Panel Line

Spiritstone Red over the Abbadon Black canopy not as usual

Edited April 14, 2020 by Ghosthacked

Posted at 2020-04-15 01:54:55+00:00

#38 This was the 1st runner up in the poll. Adi Galla's ship but I wanted to do another take on it because this is a pattern that I've always wanted to do and I like the offset position of the droid that fits this well. It still counts for Adi right? Same colors just repositioned lines.

1. The photos will show you my build process. really thin lines just to get the rays in the right places then slowly build them out and thicken bit by bit.

2. Little bit of retouching back with the Pallid to clean up the slips.

3. I found that I get my straightest lines when i'm moving my brush laterally.

White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer

Pallid Wych Flesh base

Khorne Red layer

Thinned Nuln Oil all over

Troll Slayer Orange for the engine 'glow'

Tamiya Black Panel Line

Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual