Great job, well done. You should set up a kickstarter

Those look awesome man. That terrain just pops. Love all the little skulls and bones and bits. Did you just clue the carrion lancers into the bases and base them? I love the look there, but I'd be worried about my supplies? Any concern about running out of siege bases?

Awesome job. I'd love a little more info on the magnets. I want to do this with mine.

Between getting new stuff, playing games, and painting a buttload of samey reanimates, I haven't had much to upload in a bit but figured I'd share my completed Stronghold and Temple Ruins terrain pieces.

WOW! Those are legit! Loving that stronghold!

Yeah, seriously wow.

Love them, awesome. I'd pay good money to have scenery that good so excellent work well done.

how do you go about building it all, what materials, templates?

And for today, Graveyard and Blighted Ground:



The size of these tokens was rather limiting for the Graveyard to still fit two trays so, meh. Also... what the heck is blighted ground supposed to look like? I just went with the style of ground I'm basing my undead with. Seems pretty blighted.

22 hours ago, Warpedstorm said:

how do you go about building it all, what materials, templates?

Pretty much all of these are made by tracing the terrain token itself on a sheet of styrene, cutting/trimming it down, and building up the stone details with carved extruded polystyrene (pink insulation) foam. Foam then gets sealed with wood glue and painted.

I freehand my details. Gives them a rough look.

Ankaur Maro on Bone Horror mount with custom scenic base

13 hours ago, Tvayumat said:

Ankaur Maro on Bone Horror mount with custom scenic base

Goddamnit that's pretty. Love the blight on the base!

I love that he's breaking through that barricade; it really sells the idea that he is a powerful sorceror.

Wow. Wow wow wow. Really nice stuff.

So the magnetic paint didn't work out. I'm putting in magnets in the trays. A bit tricky to keep the polarities consistent, but I actually worked out a system so it's not a big deal anymore.

Finally started painting my Daqan using the blue Army Painter primer. Hopefully I'll start a "hey look at my guys" thread of my own in the near future.

I wanna see your cavalry.

2 hours ago, Crifmer said:

Wow. Wow wow wow. Really nice stuff.

So the magnetic paint didn't work out. I'm putting in magnets in the trays. A bit tricky to keep the polarities consistent, but I actually worked out a system so it's not a big deal anymore.

Finally started painting my Daqan using the blue Army Painter primer. Hopefully I'll start a "hey look at my guys" thread of my own in the near future.

I wanna see your cavalry.

A local pointed me to some small bezels from a craft store (Michael's here) and they work great (better than paint, which I also tried). 30 for 4$ (less coupons. Not terribly bad prices...

Your terrain and basing is phenomenal Tvay, great work with Maro.

On 6/20/2017 at 7:58 PM, docForsaken said:

Those look awesome man. That terrain just pops. Love all the little skulls and bones and bits. Did you just clue the carrion lancers into the bases and base them? I love the look there, but I'd be worried about my supplies? Any concern about running out of siege bases?

Awesome job. I'd love a little more info on the magnets. I want to do this with mine.

So far, it hasn't been an issue.

The only scenario we have run into that makes it a problem is running Lingering Dead on a unit of Reanimates with Support Lancer or on a Lancer unit. In that case, I've just been either leaving the wound tokens on to indicate death, or swapping the tray for a four-slotter, so it's an issue with easy solutions at least. I like the look of the siege units not having a seam to their base.

They are glued in, and then the seam is filled in with epoxy putty.

The magnets I use are 1/8" x 1/16" cylinders from K&J Magnetics. I can't recommend them enough.

11 hours ago, Crifmer said:

Wow. Wow wow wow. Really nice stuff.

So the magnetic paint didn't work out. I'm putting in magnets in the trays. A bit tricky to keep the polarities consistent, but I actually worked out a system so it's not a big deal anymore.

Finally started painting my Daqan using the blue Army Painter primer. Hopefully I'll start a "hey look at my guys" thread of my own in the near future.

I wanna see your cavalry.

Do it! Sharing your work is a great way to get constructive criticism!

I've been stalling on Oathsworn but, the moment some Death Knights hit my table I'll have some cavalry posted up.

8 hours ago, Darthain said:

A local pointed me to some small bezels from a craft store (Michael's here) and they work great (better than paint, which I also tried). 30 for 4$ (less coupons. Not terribly bad prices...

Your terrain and basing is phenomenal Tvay, great work with Maro.

Thanks! I have to try and make up for my lack of quantity with quality where I can

11 hours ago, Crifmer said:

Wow. Wow wow wow. Really nice stuff.

So the magnetic paint didn't work out. I'm putting in magnets in the trays. A bit tricky to keep the polarities consistent, but I actually worked out a system so it's not a big deal anymore.

Finally started painting my Daqan using the blue Army Painter primer. Hopefully I'll start a "hey look at my guys" thread of my own in the near future.

I wanna see your cavalry.

nooooooooooooooooooo just get small steel discs, its like $7 for 500 of them and they don't lift the models in the tray....

its more difficult to get the magnets lined up than it is polarized right. The steel discs are the way to go though, just make sure your magnet on the base is FLUSH because if its not actually touching the disc it practically doesnt do anything. Grabs it pretty dang well though if it touches.

Few of my cavalry didnt have the magnet seated properly so i had to place one of my much stronger, wider, but thinner magnets in there to get them to grab. Literally only 5 models out of..... 99? models had that problem and that was from transferring from paired magnets to the metal disc, so it would have been better if i paid more attention to being flush in the first place.

3 hours ago, Tvayumat said:

Thanks! I have to try and make up for my lack of quantity with quality where I can

See I disagree, I'd rather see something great than lots of something meh. The problem is I can't motivate myself to paint top level foot and cavalry as there are so many. When I'm down to 16 or so spears I may actually start trying (I accidentally put a second level shadow on a pair of horses as well, so that set now needs 2 levels highlights...) Heroes and siege units ofcourse get special treatment, but beyond that it is rough.

I like to shoot for table top quality +1 as i call it.

It wouldnt win any showcase contests, depending on how many people are there i MIGHT get like 5th from last place lol.
But, it still looks awesome on the table and doesnt look remotely like the "3 colors minimum" paintjob a lot of 40k people do.

I want to delve into NMM, wetblending, and OSL (Object source lighting) but that would EASILY jump my painting time 3x-4x the amount of work on a single mini. I literally have hundreds of models i need to paint due to getting back into 40k and my orks actually being playable now (i kinda abandoned them after realizing they were beyond terrible in 6th/7th ed)

feel like setting up an etsy account to sell some terrain?

On 7/7/2017 at 2:52 PM, Vineheart01 said:

its more difficult to get the magnets lined up than it is polarized right. The steel discs are the way to go though, just make sure your magnet on the base is FLUSH because if its not actually touching the disc it practically doesnt do anything. Grabs it pretty dang well though if it touches.

Few of my cavalry didnt have the magnet seated properly so i had to place one of my much stronger, wider, but thinner magnets in there to get them to grab. Literally only 5 models out of..... 99? models had that problem and that was from transferring from paired magnets to the metal disc, so it would have been better if i paid more attention to being flush in the first place.

To make them flush do you need to add some material behind it? Or can you just squirt in some super glue gel, insert the magnet partially, and then press the base against a piece of wood to make it flush??

2 minutes ago, Glucose98 said:

To make them flush do you need to add some material behind it? Or can you just squirt in some super glue gel, insert the magnet partially, and then press the base against a piece of wood to make it flush??

Largely depends on the magnet.

The ones i use fit in the hole perfectly, to the point where i could almost get away without gluing them at all. What i do is i just put a little dab of glue on the interior walls of the hole, push a magnet in there enough to where it holds itself in there, then just push the model down on the table (i use a random metal rod so i can push on the base and not the model as sometimes this takes quite a bit of force).
Alternatively you can put a bit of gunk in there, such as greenstuff or even just blue tact (since its a filler not a visible thing you dont need it to solidify/cure). I did this until i got the magnets in the quote below since i was using rather thin magnets at first.

To quote @jek ,

These go in the hole on the model, 95% of the time you won't even need glue

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DH11

Then clip out the peg in the tray, sand it a little if there is enough plastic still there that prevents these discs from sitting flat, put down a drop of glue then these discs

http://www.buttonboyinc.com/steel-metal-discs-3-4-19mm-for-use-to-make-magnetic-pendants-500-discs/

the result is a solid hold that even cavalry will stay in tray when held upside down, and minimal if any noticeable lift to the model in the trays

Just now, Vineheart01 said:

Largely depends on the magnet.

The ones i use fit in the hole perfectly, to the point where i could almost get away without gluing them at all. What i do is i just put a little dab of glue on the interior walls of the hole, push a magnet in there enough to where it holds itself in there, then just push the model down on the table (i use a random metal rod so i can push on the base and not the model as sometimes this takes quite a bit of force).
Alternatively you can put a bit of gunk in there, such as greenstuff or even just blue tact (since its a filler not a visible thing you dont need it to solidify/cure). I did this until i got the magnets in the quote below since i was using rather thin magnets at first.

To quote @jek ,

So you also recommend both components from Jek's list? They work pretty well?

Just now, Glucose98 said:

So you also recommend both components from Jek's list? They work pretty well?

Verily. They remove polarity issues, perfect alignment issues, and hold very well.

Which was awesome for me since at some point i flipped my stack of magnets and didnt notice.....3 of my trays were reverse polarity so i couldnt interchange 12 spearmen or put any upgrades on those 3 trays

Just now, Vineheart01 said:

Verily. They remove polarity issues, perfect alignment issues, and hold very well.

Which was awesome for me since at some point i flipped my stack of magnets and didnt notice.....3 of my trays were reverse polarity so i couldnt interchange 12 spearmen or put any upgrades on those 3 trays

Swap out those 3 trays?

Just now, Glucose98 said:

Swap out those 3 trays?

Not that easy.

I actually swapped the polarity on those 3 trays to reflect the models, because getting the magnet out of those models w/o destroying the base was a daunting task i didnt want to risk.
I used to have a tiny drill i used to remove magnets, but somehow i lost the handdrill and yeah im not using a drummel for that lol. Pretty difficult to both hold a drummel still, get RIGHT next to the metal bit w/o hitting the metal bit, and fight the magnetic pull of said metal bit (pretty easy with a handdrill though)

But, my trays all use the metal discs now. So no longer a problem, im not even paying attention to polarity anymore. SO MUCH FASTER!!

I set them with a metal disc then press them flat with a key or some other non-magnetic metal...I have lead ingots and aircraft aluminum lying around so I use those...wood can dent to easily imo to use to reliably set this magnets flush, some of them are REALLY tight...