9 hours ago, supersayian said:

Yeah don't buy them. LOL You can try to transfer them to dropper bottles. I transferred two of them from the pots to bottles. I will transfer others as well. Not a big fan of their pots. I use more Vallejo and Reaper paints.

This, buy Vallejo. I get some of their paints isn't dropper friendly, but really those pots are begging to be rebought over and over because of drying.....

6 hours ago, Wolftame said:

One issue with "store them closed" is they're kinda double hinged. I've often closed a can and heard it snap, only to notice after a while that the back half isn't properly shuta dn you have to press the back hinge a bit for that to snap shut too.
My main issue with the paints is that the more expensive washes in high bottles keeps tipping over, I've wasted far more wash in spills than I've ever used on minis (not their fault of course, just saying)

Literally just yesterday I was complaining to my wife about this (after having knocked over my third bottle of wash). I love the paints themselves but the tall, thin bottles are just begging to be spilled by someone as clumsy as I am. It's frustrating that you only seem to be able to get them in the large size now, as well. A more cynical person might almost think they were doing it on purpose.

If you have any (small) empty pots left over, you can transfer some into one and use that one.

I've never painted miniatures before coming across these tutorials, now I've got almost more money in paint than miniatures! Thanks Sorastro for your excellent guides, they're fantastic for a beginner painter like me. Here's the ever growing collection:

23 minutes ago, mdl0114 said:

I've never painted miniatures before coming across these tutorials, now I've got almost more money in paint than miniatures! Thanks Sorastro for your excellent guides, they're fantastic for a beginner painter like me. Here's the ever growing collection:

Awesome - thanks for sharing your work! I'm always happy to hear that my humble videos have helped another padawan enter the wonderful hobby!

Sorastro...love your guides. First time painting and have learned a lot.

have you done 0-0-0 and BT-1 yet? I'd love to see those 2.

On 2017-6-4 at 7:34 AM, DarthJak said:

have you done 0-0-0 and BT-1 yet? I'd love to see those 2.

Hi DarthJak! No I haven't done them yet, although I do have them waiting...

5 hours ago, Sorastro said:

Hi DarthJak! No I haven't done them yet, although I do have them waiting...

I can't wait to see that video when you do them. I already have 0-0-0 color picked out using alclad black chrome using an airbrush. I used the alclad chrome and yellow coating for C-3PO when I did him. So using an airbrush for half of this duo will be fairly easy its the other half where I will use your video on.

On 6/3/2017 at 11:34 PM, DarthJak said:

have you done 0-0-0 and BT-1 yet? I'd love to see those 2.

I'm a Sarastro student and have used 36/38 of the SW videos (and a patron of course). I'm finally to the point where I feel I can take on a new figure pretty confidently but I still find myself waiting for the video if it's something particularly challenging. That being said, here's my attempt at BT1 and 0-0-0. My general method and some lessons learned:

1) I started with the method for C3P0. Where I used Vallejo gun metal (similar to leadbealcher) for the base color. I think this could have been better if I airbrushed the base color, but I don't own one, so that's that. For 0-0-0 I also dry brushed with silver in the base color stage.

2) I then washed with even parts Lahmen medium and Nuln oil with just a touch of drakenhof nightshade (5:5:1). All in all, I liked the color and darkness. The watered down shade meant that I could reapply to get the desired darkness. For the weapons on BT, I used an even (undiluted) mix of nuln oil and agrax earth shade to set them apart from the body. I reapplied this to get the weapons nice and dark.

2) One mistake I made with BT-1: I dry brushed with some gun metal after the first shade. This gave the metal more of a steel look rather than an even alloy. I had to reapply shade to even it up a bit. If doing this again I wouldn't dry brush after applying the initial shades.

3) To get the blue and red alloy look I just applied a thin layer of red or blue glaze and brushed it as even as possible. I've used this technique before with MHD and I really like the effect. You can reapply the glaze to darken the metal to the desired color but in this case one thin layer was plenty.

4) One of my favorite outcomes from these figures were their eyes. I mixed a little silver into a yellow base color and painted the eyes (or eye in BT's case). Once dry, I applied a single layer of red glaze. This gave their eyes a glowing red orange color that I really liked. For BT's blue light and 0-0-0's hand, I used a white base coat and then glazed over with blue. (I think we learned this in the R2 video).

5) Aside from the eyes, The only finishing touches that I applied was some scratching on the edges of the weapons.

6) I still need to apply dull coat followed by some Ardcoat finishing touches.

VMK that is some solid work! Especially BT looks strong with the orange light contrast to the metal. Love it.

I ended up doing 2 sets of BT/000 for my collection and since I like to do slight differences between the 1st and the 2nd sets this is what I came up with.

Again with the alternate color schemes in comes Hera and Chopper with original and Imperial/Stealth disguises.

Hi fellow painters!

It's been a little while but here's my next offering: Obi-Wan Kenobi. I wanted to also paint a ghost version but I ran out of time - maybe at a future date...

Jeremy "Obi-Wan" Corbyn

Question: the gun on my e-web is still a bit warped, can I heat it up and bend it even after it's been painted?

19 hours ago, jconway2002 said:

Question: the gun on my e-web is still a bit warped, can I heat it up and bend it even after it's been painted?

Hi jconway2002! I haven't tried it myself but I don't see why not. If things go wrong you an always repaint the gun

3 minutes ago, Sorastro said:

Hi jconway2002! I haven't tried it myself but I don't see why not. If things go wrong you an always repaint the gun

Remembering the horrors of painting Airfix 1/72 military miniatures and no paint would ever stick to them (not for long anyway)
I think if done carefully it shouldn't be a problem.

Pimped my tank with a blue LED hidden in the cavity of the body

1 hour ago, thePREdiger said:

Pimped my tank with a blue LED hidden in the cavity of the body

Nice work PREdiger - Loving the LED! I'm starting on mine this week too

Any advice how how to clean up these imperial officer faces? I think I let the fleshshade wash pool too much, and the kislev flesh highlights look like war paint makeup. Would making some sort of flesh glave help even things out?

http://imgur.com/a/BvCW0

11 hours ago, jconway2002 said:

Any advice how how to clean up these imperial officer faces? I think I let the fleshshade wash pool too much, and the kislev flesh highlights look like war paint makeup. Would making some sort of flesh glave help even things out?

http://imgur.com/a/BvCW0

Hi JC! I might be tempted to go in with some Cadian Fleshtone and provide a pretty broad highlight to smooth things out, then go back over with the Kislev Flesh for the smaller highlights (for the tip of the nose, cheekbones etc).

3 hours ago, Sorastro said:

Hi JC! I might be tempted to go in with some Cadian Fleshtone and provide a pretty broad highlight to smooth things out, then go back over with the Kislev Flesh for the smaller highlights (for the tip of the nose, cheekbones etc).

Or, to promote one of your own videos in the series, JC should watch the Han Solo face highlights. I believe that was the one where you used the five gradual stages of highlighting the face. I really like that technique when you've got a ton of face to work with, which is the case with the imp officers.

However, I think they look good as is. I really like the heavy pooling of the reikland fleshshade for depth. Gradual staging of highlights will provide more tone. What you'll find with time and experience is you'll leave very little of the reikland fleshshade but the few iplaces where it remains will make a big difference.

The rebel troopers video is another good example of face highlights. The recent Verena Talos video shows nicely how you can one can 'cheat' on the face highlights and get away with it because the coat and left arm obstruct so much of the face, it's not a focal point of the figure and requires less attention to detail.

/end sorastro promotion

Thank you @Sorastro and @HK 47 for the replies. You know, looking at it with fresh eyes today and I think they look pretty decent. Its funny how hyper focused and critical you can be when you are staring at these little guys from only a few inches away for an hour at a time. With that said, I think I will jump ahead at watch the Han Solo video and see if I can get any ideas that I may want to try on these officers. Thanks again to this very responsive community, and a big thank you to you Sorastro for these amazing videos which I am addicted to watching. You really are the Bob Ross of miniature painting.

So...after a while without painting...I came back from Europe and could buy a lot of Citadel paints and be released from my black/white jail...

After Stormtroopers and E-Web Engineers, I painted the Imperial Guards.

I am quite happy with the results, I am a complete newbie and I think I did a better job than with the stormtroopers....

Still, I think I messed up with highlights as I almost covered all of Mephiston Red with the "highlights" of Evil Sunz Red (instead of doing highlights I ended up covering almost completely poor Mephiston)...Anyway, apart from that, I´´ am happy because I think they are a bit tidier than my Stormtroopers and, although far from perfect, they are more than I expected been capable of....Still, it is a plain miniature and more challenging miniatures are ahead.

Let me know what you think! (in the back, primed Darth Vader waiting for his turn).