You apply the activator onto both parts that you plan to join, let it set for 60 seconds. Then you apply the glue to one part an press the parts together. Within two or three seconds the glue has cured and the parts are secure.
Sorastro's Painting
Had a go at Sorin. Not the most dynamic of minis. Still can't do faces, but I am pretty pleased with the rank insignia and the goggles.
Might head into town today to buy the colours for the HK droids. Obviously painting them three such cool colour schemes was a ploy to make me buy more Citadel paints. That sponsorship deal already paying dividends for Games Workshop ![]()
On 2/18/2017 at 6:46 AM, udat said:Had a go at Sorin. Not the most dynamic of minis. Still can't do faces, but I am pretty pleased with the rank insignia and the goggles.
Might head into town today to buy the colours for the HK droids. Obviously painting them three such cool colour schemes was a ploy to make me buy more Citadel paints. That sponsorship deal already paying dividends for Games Workshop
I can't see why we wouldn't paint them all to mimic HK 47, arguably Bioware's greatest NPC. Of course I wouldn't say that with Urdnot Wrex around...
But there's only one HK-47! ![]()
5 minutes ago, udat said:But there's only one HK-47!
Very true. I'm looking at painting the 'minion' unit silver, and the elite units 'HK 47'. Two styles is enough and will feel fresh from the current grind (i.e. painting the snowtroopers). Painting in so much white/ivory/screaming skull is a total grind
I was almost dreading the snowtroopers, then I did all six in one night. They aren't magnificent but they are good enough for the table. The thinned wash tip made these so much easier to paint. I think I did 4:1 medium to nuln oil. I also used the "Gloss White" paint from Vallejo instead of white scar/ceramite white. It went on much smoother and has a nice inherent shine that obviates the need for ardcoat. I'm almost tempted to try to strip my original stormies and do them like this.
Awesome work Udat! ![]()
You deserve some of the credit, mate ![]()
I'm very happy with this figure. Finally some eyes that I didn't mess up! I am, however, very curious to see how Sorastro does this figure, as the syringe is meant to be glass, as is the torso of the medical droid in Empire he is based on. I haven't a clue how you'd even begin to create a glass effect ![]()
Looking awesome, I'm done cleaning up mine so it's ready for primer, unfortunately the one I got is way to light so need to get another darker one. (bought Vallejo's spray primer, but apparently they have changed the color in it so instead of a mid/dark gray it's now a very light gray), should have just gone for the cheaper Army Painter one used in the guide.
Nice job!
12 minutes ago, Sorastro said:
I umm... I may have clapped my hands excitedly when I saw this video was up... but in a very masculine macho way.
Ha ha EastCoast ![]()
I tried zenithal highlights on the rancor. I don't have an airbrush but I got ok results with primer spray cans, I think. With a figure this big I don't think I have to be exact with the zenithal highlighting.



I think that will help me when I start actually painting the monster. Hopefully I have some time for it on the weekend. And I really need to wipe the dust off of the monitor...
Another fantastic job Udat! ![]()
A bit sad now, my first attempt at following the guide did not turn out as I had hoped. I did the AT-ST and it was reasonable ok up to the wash stage but there I must have screwed up somehow. Am I supposed to thin the wash any? My model ended up way to dark and quite splotchy looking.


Think I can rescue this somehow, what might I have done wrong?
Could the fact I used Vallejo black wash instead of Nuln oil be a reason? (I'm having some problems with the Probe Droid as well as they came much darker than anticipated).
I've found Vallejo's shades frustrating, particularly the black. I had similar results to what you're seeing on my AT-ST when I used Vallejo's black shade over a grey primer. I went back and put a few thin coats of grey over the primer and then tried again with Nuln Oil and it was a major improvement. It's a much smoother finish. Citadel's stuff is more expensive in general and I prefer Vallejo's dropper bottles but I've found Citadel's shades to be significantly better.
I used straight Nuln Oil, but I ended up doing quite a bit of cleanup work afterwards since it's quite dark out of the pot. It really might be worth thinning down with some medium to save you some cleanup work.
Thanks, then I need to order a few more bottles as I also have another Vallejo wash I was going to use as replacement for a Citadel one. Guess that explains my dark Droids too.
I am considering going back and putting a new layer Celestra Grey over this and redoing from there, think that might work?
If I want to "start over", what's the best approach, somehow strip the figures, go back and redo primer, go back to base coat? (what is least likely to lower the quality of detail and end result).
Stupidly enough I've already glued my Weiss AT-ST together too which I guess might make it a bit harder to paint.
Added thoughts.
You could prime over the top again, a lot of people do that. Bear in mind though, that if you go over and over a model with layers of paint and primer, you might end up obscuring the detail. Alternately you could strip the miniature and start again. There are a load of different ways of doing this. Read up on it in advance to avoid the pitfalls. I've been using a product called Biostrip 20 which you can get on Amazon. Get the tub rather than the spray, if you do decide to use this. The other alternative is to try to salvage it using some thinned Celestra gray over the areas where the wash pooled and created those darker marks. You want the AT-ST to look grubby and weathered, so most of the mini is not too bad to my eyes. It's not disasterous.
I finished Kayn Somos and the Heavy Stormtroopers (sounds like a band name) plus some extra stormie backing singers.

The AT-ST doesn't really have fine details that are going to get obscured like you might see on a smaller figure, so you can probably just paint over what you have there without worrying about losing detail. Stripping paint is a pain so I'd see what it looks like just painting over what you have and then make a decision.
Any thoughts on buying Citadel Air over regular Citadel colors? (they are the same price) Pros, cons?
I'm about to order a batch of paints to replace my Vallejos as well as grabbing missing ones, but some of them have 2 weeks shipping time while the air version is in stock.




