Sorastro's Painting

By Sorastro, in Imperial Assault Painting and Modification

2 hours ago, Sorastro said:

Hi HK-47! I also recently tried out the Valhallan Blizzard and I have to agree - it's really excellent! I'll certainly be using it in some future videos.. :)

really behaves like the glue and snow all in one container. It dries quickly.

I used it for my Wampa's as well and really liked it, but I went a step further and used some Army Painter snow terrain that gave it the granular look. That is all I had access to at my LGS for snow terrain so that is why I chose it, but I was actually very happy with the result.

I went pretty heavy with mine on the wampas base then very light along the back and arms and other upturned areas.

2 hours ago, EastCoast said:

I saw your web page, can't wait to see what you do with that Rancor!

Thank mate! I'm just finishing up the HK droids video, then the Rancor will be up next (although a little Decent might sneak in first) :)

What do you guys recommend for a good cutting board with 1" squares and measurements?

16 hours ago, Rikalonius said:

What do you guys recommend for a good cutting board with 1" squares and measurements?

Hi Rikalonius! I use one by Ansio which I really like; they do a good range of sizes too.

The next tutorial is up - I hope you enjoy the HK Droids!

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Watching this video now. Are there any videos in the series where you discuss how to apply the --zenaful (sic) highlights? I think I remember you talking about it before.

2 hours ago, Rikalonius said:

Watching this video now. Are there any videos in the series where you discuss how to apply the --zenaful (sic) highlights? I think I remember you talking about it before.

Hi Rikalonius! The Frost Giant video (first in the Blood Rage series) covers the topic most thouroughly :)

24 minutes ago, Sorastro said:

Hi Rikalonius! The Frost Giant video (first in the Blood Rage series) covers the topic most thouroughly :)

Ha. The one I didn't watch. I did watch your Fire Giant and I loved it. I want to make a 3D print of my 3D work of my Draenei Shaman from WoW and paint her skin and axes the same way.

Love this videos, only took me watching a handful of them to become a Patreon.
Not sure I will ever be able to reproduce the work with my eyesight, but I will give it a hard try.

I painted my Wampas at the weekend. I tried to follow the video as closely as possible, but the minis came out darker than anticipated, so I did end up giving them a cheeky dry-brush with white to bring the tone back to where I wanted it. I guess I didn't thin the screaming skull and stormvermin fur paints enough.

I do have a question about thinning paints - often the pigment seems to clump up when I think the paints, so I get areas where no pigment adheres to the model, and areas of (relatively) strong coverage. The water where I live is extremely hard, and I wondered in that had anything to do with it. Is it worth using distilled water for thinning paints?

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Distilled water and mediums like Citadel's Lahmian medium are better for thinning paints but I don't think they're necessary. I live in an area where the water is soft but I've noticed that white and yellow are colors where the pigments tend to do scatter. The pigment pools on one side and other parts are transparent. Nowadays I often use 50% Lahmian medium and 50% water when thinning white or yellow. It gives more even coverage. For other colors I just use water for thinning. For washes, I use pure Lahmian Medium for thinning.

2 hours ago, Elrath' said:

Distilled water and mediums like Citadel's Lahmian medium are better for thinning paints but I don't think they're necessary. I live in an area where the water is soft but I've noticed that white and yellow are colors where the pigments tend to do scatter. The pigment pools on one side and other parts are transparent. Nowadays I often use 50% Lahmian medium and 50% water when thinning white or yellow. It gives more even coverage. For other colors I just use water for thinning. For washes, I use pure Lahmian Medium for thinning.

That's pretty much what happens, and yes, definitely more noticeable with white. If distilled water is better then I might give it a try. It's pretty cheap, and if it doesn't help the paints at least I can use it in my iron ;)

I noticed it with white as well, so I agree maybe try some Medium instead. Wampa's look good!

8 hours ago, udat said:

I painted my Wampas at the weekend. I tried to follow the video as closely as possible, but the minis came out darker than anticipated, so I did end up giving them a cheeky dry-brush with white to bring the tone back to where I wanted it. I guess I didn't thin the screaming skull and stormvermin fur paints enough.

I do have a question about thinning paints - often the pigment seems to clump up when I think the paints, so I get areas where no pigment adheres to the model, and areas of (relatively) strong coverage. The water where I live is extremely hard, and I wondered in that had anything to do with it. Is it worth using distilled water for thinning paints?

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Wampas look good. Did you use the Valhallan Blizzard on the base?

To answer your inquiry, you'll get much better results with distilled water (bottled water, reverse osmosis, etc.).

13 hours ago, HK 47 said:

Wampas look good. Did you use the Valhallan Blizzard on the base?

To answer your inquiry, you'll get much better results with distilled water (bottled water, reverse osmosis, etc.).

Thanks :)

Yes, Valhallan Blizzard on the base. It works really well. There's also a couple of dabs of it on the back of the Wampa. It's really easy to use and I am impressed by the results.

Will try distilled water for my next mini.



First batch here, time to get cooking! :)

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Does anyone know if Tamiya's extra thin plastic cement will work with FFG's miniatures?
If not, what is the best glue for the plastic used?
Couldn't get the nose gun of the AT-ST in place so I used a knife blade and scraped some, but that went from not fitting to not being able to stay put in zero flat so now I will have to glue the guns in place.

I just used gorilla super glue, never had a problem yet.

2 minutes ago, FrogTrigger said:

I just used gorilla super glue, never had a problem yet.

Sadly I was told in an Imperial Assault group on FB that the extra thin cement would work just fine with the figs so I ordered a bottle and some other stuff to use. Hours after ordering I was told by another user in the same group that no, it would NOT work because the FFG minis are resin and not plastic and I need CA glue. :/

I am with FrogTrigger. I use the gorilla glue super glue with a brush and it works just fine.

5 minutes ago, supersayian said:

I am with FrogTrigger. I use the gorilla glue super glue with a brush and it works just fine.

Thank you. I'm not sure I can get Gorilla glue here but I can get a brand called Zap-a-gap that's a CA adhesive, I think I will try the brush on version of that. (unless anyone have anything negative to say about it before I get to order). I aw Army Painters superglue but that was back ordered so won't bother with that.

@Wolftame I was having issues getting cyanoacrylate (super glue) to work for me on my minis, but it may have been impatience on my part since no one else seemed to have the same problem.

HOWEVER, this worked perfectly every time I needed it for my figures:

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On 2/14/2017 at 7:02 PM, Wolftame said:

Sadly I was told in an Imperial Assault group on FB that the extra thin cement would work just fine with the figs so I ordered a bottle and some other stuff to use. Hours after ordering I was told by another user in the same group that no, it would NOT work because the FFG minis are resin and not plastic and I need CA glue. :/

This seems unlikely. I'm not actually sure what they use but I just don't believe they're resin.

Edited by perniciousducks

Certainly Citadel Plastic Glue seems to have worked fine for me. I say "seems to" because I haven't actually actively tried to pull anything apart :P

On 2/15/2017 at 6:46 PM, Force Majeure said:

@Wolftame I was having issues getting cyanoacrylate (super glue) to work for me on my minis, but it may have been impatience on my part since no one else seemed to have the same problem.

HOWEVER, this worked perfectly every time I needed it for my figures:

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What's the cure time on that one?