Hi,
I have seen hints in a few posts on how to protect dials with some kind of plastic sheeting. Does anyone have a tutorial on how to do so, what do you use specifically, and do you apply it to one side (the maneuver side) only?
Finally, is applying a plastic sheeting to the dial (and maybe maneuver templates) make them unuseable for official tournaments?
Cheers
Ceodryn
I use packing tape. Just cut out a square big enough for the dial with the arrows on it and then cut around the edge with a pair of scisors counter clockwise (if right handed with right handed scisors) and then use a lighter to lightly touch up the edges. Very cheap, very easy. I don't bother with the outside of the movement dials.
I use Contact paper. Cover the maneuver side of the dial, trim with an X-acto knife, and done.
That's the stuff, although you probably don't need a 6-pack
Clear ConTact brand paper, not glossy. Hardware stores have it in the kitchen cabinet areas. It's also available at Michaels and AC Moores craft stores.
Video tutorial:
Also generally helpful is putting a thin 5/16" nylon washer between the halves and tap it down -- just helps it to spin easier. I've found these at Lowes.
I used contact paper on the number part of the dial and at the very top where your fingers will be pushing on the dial. I haven't used a washer but they still spin fairly well; probably not as smoothly if you use a washer but it's still functional.
I don't know about tournaments but I don't really see why that would be banned. You could always ask the tournament organizers just to be on the safe side.
DON'T USE THE CONTACT PAPER STUFF!
Easy way to do this and ALL of your tokens is to use artist fixitive.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-gloss-fixative/
This works well.
DON'T USE THE CONTACT PAPER STUFF!
Easy way to do this and ALL of your tokens is to use artist fixitive.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-gloss-fixative/
This works well.
Besides ease of application, why do you say not to use contact paper? I have done it and it works well, even though it is a pain to apply for my non-crafty self.
DON'T USE THE CONTACT PAPER STUFF!
Easy way to do this and ALL of your tokens is to use artist fixitive.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-gloss-fixative/
This works well.
Anybody else have experience with this stuff. It looks like it would be super easy to just spray a coat over all my dials, but I'd like to hear from some others about if this is the best way to go. (No offense Picasso but you're the first person I've ever seen suggest this stuff) And Picasso, why are you against the contact paper? Bad experience? Or do you just think the spray is better? Thanks
What I do to protect my dials is put a 5/16th nylon washer as a spacer between the two dials so they don't rub together...do need a bit of superglue to make the centerpost stay together. The washer makes the dial spin easier and protects the artwork on the bottom dial from rubbing off. After I assemble the dial I give both sides a nice coat of the varnish I use on my miniatures...works like a charm.
I use self-adhesive laminate, the stuff they use in sign shops to protect their big prints. Having access to a plotter, I precut mine so I have a stash ready to apply to the dial faces when I get new ships. I use matte laminate material and once they're on, you can't really tell the difference.
If anyone is so inclined, you could get your friendly local sign shop to help you out on this. I just make the plotter cut two circles, one centered within the other. My outside circle is 1.7088" in diameter, and the inner circle is 0.3225" in diameter. Applying them on the dials is the only tricky part, as these are fairly sticky.
The fixative is just easy to do. you can do your tokens too and it is fast.
I actually picked this tip up from some of the guys at FFG during star wars weekend. I honestly can't believe how well it works. I should have known better being an art teacher. I've also seen people use the wrong "contact paper" and when it peals it takes the dial with it. To each their own but I know what I'm doing.
i use contact paper thanks to finding the video above. it takes like five minutes to do. i got a roll for 5 bucks at walmart and it will be more than i will ever need
Edited by ApollosSpearThe fixative is just easy to do. you can do your tokens too and it is fast.
I actually picked this tip up from some of the guys at FFG during star wars weekend. I honestly can't believe how well it works. I should have known better being an art teacher. I've also seen people use the wrong "contact paper" and when it peals it takes the dial with it. To each their own but I know what I'm doing.
The Con-tact brand paper I used does not have a very strong adhesive, so it does not peel the printing off the cardboard.
The fixative is just easy to do. you can do your tokens too and it is fast.
I actually picked this tip up from some of the guys at FFG during star wars weekend. I honestly can't believe how well it works. I should have known better being an art teacher. I've also seen people use the wrong "contact paper" and when it peals it takes the dial with it. To each their own but I know what I'm doing.
So i did a trial run with some of this stuff last night (not the exact same brand but the same idea, a clear sealer used for artwork). I tried it on a pair of Target locks. After letting it dry overnight, i spent a good portion of my morning rubbing the TLs together tike I was trying to start a little mini fire. After what probably amounted to about 1-2 hours of total rubbing the TLs show very little wear (while doing other stuff, I didn't just sit in the corner for 2 hours rubbing my fingers together. BTW my fingers are huting pretty bad because i was using a good amount of pressure). And to be honest they showed absolutely no wear until about the last 5 minutes. Probably because by then i had finally managed to start to rub off the sealer.
I probably did more damage to these little TLs this morning then i would do to my dials in 3 years. As a control, I did the same thing with another pair of TLs that hadn't been treated with the sealer and those ones showed clear signs of wear in about 20 seconds. So i would say this stuff works pretty well. And the nice thing is it is very easy and quick to spray all your dials. I even applied a coat to the outside of the dials (I did them all this morning before i left for work) so that my fingers don't rub off all of the ink, which really annoys me. And what the heck, I even did my movement and range templates.
But since i already have all of my dials apart and because I'm overly concerned about wear on them, I'm gonna stop at home depot on my way home and pick up some of the nylon washers and use those too. If i ever notice any wear on my dials i can always take them apart and put another coat or 2 of the sealer or use the contact paper at that time if i decide I don't like the sealer after all
I'm not saying that the contact paper doesn't work. I just know that you can do EVERYTHING with the fixative with little to know effort.
I'm not saying that the contact paper doesn't work. I just know that you can do EVERYTHING with the fixative with little to know effort.
The Con-tact paper is a considerable bit of effort. So although it is a good solution, your advice is valuable to people who haven't started this project yet. I may even revert to doing that myself.
Huh, might just use this on everything else I haven't used the Contact paper on.
Can you find this stuff pretty much anywhere, like at a Walmart? Just worried that I might accidentally buy the wrong thing.
Edited by Redeemer31I found mine at Michael's (arts & crafts store). Plus i found a 40% of 1 item coupon on their website. Cost me $4.50 including tax, although there were more expensive brands, as much as $15 a can. I think if you read the label and it is designed for putting a clear sealer type of layer over artwork it should work fine. Mine was acrylic based i think but I'm not much of a crafty guy so i don't know if that makes a difference
Sweet. There's a Michael's not too far from where I live. Will give it a try some day. Thanks!
If I can add my two cents...
I have recently discovered the game at Gen Con. I am completely hooked and even listen to battle videos in my car. I do not watch as my imagination makes it better.
I do want to say the best option is HP260 packaging tape from Duck Brands. Their tape is non yellowing (I have an 8 yard roll of tape that is still crystal clear) and a thick tape. It also uses an acrylic adhesive that is for long term storage. Essentially the other tapes use an adhesive that breaks down over time. (Think of a box that is old and has white powder and a plastic strip that falls off) It is sold pretty much everywhere in office supply stores, WalMart, Lowes, Target, fabric/craft stores, etc. It comes in 60 yard or 22 yard roll (with dispenser).
I know this as I sell this among other products in my day job. I am not selling, just offering my opinion for my new game friends.
I keep my dials secured in a plastic tackle tote and I carry a .45 ACP.
LOL!
FYI - If you go the spraying route, you must use a washer. I sprayed mine and currently don't have washers. And the dials I don't use often end up sticking together if you just let them sit for ~2 weeks. And it becomes a pain to get them to spin again.
If I can add my two cents...
I have recently discovered the game at Gen Con. I am completely hooked and even listen to battle videos in my car. I do not watch as my imagination makes it better.
I do want to say the best option is HP260 packaging tape from Duck Brands. Their tape is non yellowing (I have an 8 yard roll of tape that is still crystal clear) and a thick tape. It also uses an acrylic adhesive that is for long term storage. Essentially the other tapes use an adhesive that breaks down over time. (Think of a box that is old and has white powder and a plastic strip that falls off) It is sold pretty much everywhere in office supply stores, WalMart, Lowes, Target, fabric/craft stores, etc. It comes in 60 yard or 22 yard roll (with dispenser).
I know this as I sell this among other products in my day job. I am not selling, just offering my opinion for my new game friends.
FYI - If you go the spraying route, you must use a washer. I sprayed mine and currently don't have washers. And the dials I don't use often end up sticking together if you just let them sit for ~2 weeks. And it becomes a pain to get them to spin again.
Thanks for the heads up!