Here’s some updated photos of the naga archer. I started in the base but didn’t like the result so I popped her off. I still need to decide what to do with it.

Great models! I recommend everyone picks them up!

@BigBadAndy that Naga is looking great

5 hours ago, Liono58 said:

Great models! I recommend everyone picks them up!

@BigBadAndy that Naga is looking great

Wow man, he looks fantastic. I have barely started my Togashi Youkini. Is that a cork base? How did you get him in there securely?

49 minutes ago, BigBadAndy said:

Wow man, he looks fantastic. I have barely started my Togashi Youkini. Is that a cork base? How did you get him in there securely?

Thank you very much! I use cork for some bases but this one is actually bark. I make sure it has plenty of time to dry out, you can speed this up a variety of ways, after doing so I brush on a few coats of PVA glue. Doing so allows the glue to soak into the bark which makes it tougher when it dries. I trim most of the tab off the feet leaving little ones underneath each foot then using an exacto knife and file, I slim the remaining tab down until it looks like part of a brass rod. I then align the model where I want on the base and drill two small holes into the bark. I dry fit to make sure everything lines up and when I am ready to affix the mini to the base I put some super glue into the drill hole and some clear drying model glue on the bottom of the feet. This allows my tabs to grab hold of plenty of the base interior and the feet to be secured without worried about fogging potential paint on the base. Hope this helps!

I really like this model and had quite a bit of fun with it and look forward to painting the others. The Naga is pretty straight forward and I've already started mapping out what colors I would like to use for Mastu Tsuko.

I finally got my Togashi Yokuni finished. I very much emulated @Liono58 ‘s version above. That’s where I got the idea to use the two different shades of gold and to use a wash to make the gold armor have a green tint in the recessed areas. I didn’t execute it as well, but it’s better than most of my miniatures. For the base I was going for a snowy mountain meadow.

I also decided the naga archer needed a better base.

@BigBadAndy looking good! If you have an account on the Privateer Press forums you should post them there for more exposure for the line. Also on the mini-crate page there is a place to upload your finished mini pics that requires no account if you would be interested.

Looking foreard to getting Matsu Tsuko here in the upcoming days, I’ve got a plan for her golden Lion armor!

I’ve also got a decent picture of my finished Naga I’ll post once I resize it appropriately. I like your idea to use a bigger base, more real estate to work with when basing. I like your flagstone!

Hope we keep seeing these pop up they are a lot of fun to paint. 😁

Tried to stick close to the art it’s based on and as some constructive critics have suggested I could have lightened up the underbelly more but there is a more visible discrinction in person. Not as good as my Togashi but still happy!

@Liono58 I think your archer looks terrific. I’m especially impresssed at the base because there’s so little real estate to work with and you made it look terrific. Where did the trees come from? They look like you painted them.

I will look into getting a Privateer Press forum account. I looks lostimg pics of my stuff and seeing what other people are doing. You think you could share a link? My experience trying to navigate their website to order the minicrate was pretty horrendous...

Regarding my Naga archer base, I would love to take credit for the flagstone but I just bought the base as is, primed it and dry brushed it.

@BigBadAndy thanks man. I’m trying to make the bases indicative of where the model, or model’s clan, are from. Those are old left overs from a Gamesworkshop Woods set I had for Wargaming. Figured it would let me work with my limited space to try to give off the suggestion of Shimomen Mori.

Here are the PP forums: https://privateerpressforums.com/ (does not seem to be as much activity there as here but figured as PP made the models)

The minicrate page with place to upload painting minicrate models: https://www.mini-crate.com/ (place to upload files is at the bottom of the page) They have still yet to post mine ...

May seem silly but I’m posting these guys everywhere in hopes the partnership between PP and FF continues 😎

Thanks @Liono58 . I’ve been trying to get better photos...

I totally understand about trying to support the things you like. I will post in both places. I really dig these minis.

Matsu Tsuko came very early this month! Blu-tacked her together to get a glimpse. As excited as I am to paint her up I’m on hold until some paint comes in 😕 These are great models!

@Liono58 mine arrived today. I had a terrrible time gluing Togashi Yokuni together and I’m not anxious to repeat it. Any advice on gluing pewter?

Im going to have to look up a good color scheme for her.

Working with metal and super glue really calls for an accelerator. Zip Kicker is widely available at hobby shops (as in shops that sell scale models and RC cars, as opposed to game stores). You will never be without it once you try it.

Now, I enjoin you for honor’s sake to paint Tsuko with due care and respect!

So the minis will all be made from metal? I had hoped there would be more like the Naga.

@BigBadAndy Unless the piece is too heavy I usually just score the contact points then hold the model in an angle so that gravity works with me. So for example Togashi Yokuni’s sword points were pointed straight up. To echo @Manchu ‘s statement I’ve heard people swear by zip kicker but have never needed it. Also if the glued piece is heavy enough I worry the weight will break down the glue bond I also pin it. These L5R model arms are light enough I doubt it will be an issue.

@Matsu Kenshin they might bounce back and forth with material. From what I’ve seen from their other minicrate line some modes are metal others plastic. Admittedly I feel details are often crisper on metal but know some prefer plastic.

1 hour ago, Liono58 said:

they might bounce back and forth with material. From what I’ve seen from their other minicrate line some modes are metal others plastic. Admittedly I feel details are often crisper on metal but know some prefer plastic.

I will just mention that it technically isn't a plastic they are using but a Resin/Plastic hybrid or as some in the industry refer to it Restic.

My personal experience with a lot of Restic is that they can end up pretty hit or miss. They are good for small batch printing (like the mini-crate) and they hold some very crisp details, but the molds seem to break down pretty quick so you can end up with a lot of problems with larger batches. They can also be more prone to warping in high temperatures if you aren't careful. Admittedly those warps tend to only be on thinner pieces like blades and arms, and can be usually be repaired by placing the model in some warm water for a few minutes and than re-bending to the desired shape, but it can be a bit more of a pain with painted models.

My problem woth the glue was the arms wouldn’t set at all and then I ended up with glue all over them.

I will pick up an accelerator and give it a try.

The naga archer was a resin mini with a metal arm (which seemed odd to me). So far the other two are all metal.

Just now, BigBadAndy said:

My problem woth the glue was the arms wouldn’t set at all and then I ended up with glue all over them.

I will pick up an accelerator and give it a try.

The naga archer was a resin mini with a metal arm (which seemed odd to me). So far the other two are all metal.

You likely did already, but i will mention make sure you are pre-washing the models before assembly to make sure you got off all the mold release agent as that can interfere with the glue setting properly as well.

Knowing PP is using restic just makes me feel better about not ordering these figures.

1 minute ago, Manchu said:

Knowing PP is using restic just makes me feel better about not ordering these figures.

Suit yourself. I’m not a materials expert in any way, but the detail on the “restic” Naga Archer is as good or better than the metal minis in my opinion.

Sure, it’s just a PITA to work with. My experience with restic is PP’s Mk III starter kits and Mantic stuff.

39 minutes ago, Manchu said:

Knowing PP is using restic just makes me feel better about not ordering these figures.

So far looks like just the Naga is Restic, which sort of makes sense since it will be the one in production longest and likely to have the highest production run. Others so far have been metal.

@Manchu @Schmoozies Metal, plastic, restic, resin, finecast, whatever. I literally had no clean up besides washing off possible mold release agent remnant. I am very impressed with the quality regardless of material. I’ve bought models from many differant lines and manufactorers and these have been some of the cleanest sculpts. I would be happy to provide better pics of the bare metal if that might be an incentive to encourage some of you to jump on board?

50 minutes ago, Manchu said:

Sure, it’s just a PITA to work with. My experience with restic is PP’s Mk III starter kits and Mantic stuff.

I had some early forays in plastic with the initial Convergence release and the Naga was soooo much better in comparison!

43 minutes ago, Liono58 said:

@Manchu @Schmoozies Metal, plastic, restic, resin, finecast, whatever. I literally had no clean up besides washing off possible mold release agent remnant. I am very impressed with the quality regardless of material. I’ve bought models from many differant lines and manufactorers and these have been some of the cleanest sculpts. I would be happy to provide better pics of the bare metal if that might be an incentive to encourage some of you to jump on board?

Oh I was already in as soon as they announced. Just noting some of the issues with restic as a material and why I'm glad that only the one model is in the material so far.