I'm wondering from a functional standpoint if it's a good idea to base the trays or not? I think doing the minis individually makes a lot of sense, but when it comes time to remove trays after combat, I could see the grass / gravel / etc being flaked off when you try to remove them.

The original Team Covenant Demo had black trays with the minis individually based -- I think that looked pretty good. It does have a bit of a 'gamey' feel to it, but you *are* playing a game when you slot them in the trays.

Thoughts?

When I first based my trays it was a nightmare to separate them. But they have worn, and are now easier to pull apart. And they look so good done.

some aren't done yet, just painted brown, and they look good as is. I'm still contemplating whether I'll do em all. Probably will.

I have and will continue to, I clean and sand the edges slightly 'post'

As Ywing says they can be a pain to separate early on but over time and some touch ups they smooth off and it's fine. I think it's worth it for the look of a fully based tray

Absolutely. It doesn't look right otherwise. I just file down the edges for fit.

Mine are all based, and they function just as well as the bare ones.

The trays don't bind as much once you've used them for a while.

Mine are very much based, had a few bad sticks here and there but the more use they get the smoother they go together. I covered up the sight lines on mine and now I'm concerned that they might not be tournament legal.

1 minute ago, Jukey said:

Mine are very much based, had a few bad sticks here and there but the more use they get the smoother they go together. I covered up the sight lines on mine and now I'm concerned that they might not be tournament legal.

The sight lines really aren't necessary. Shoot a laser through the center point of the nearest circle on the base and the corner of the tray and you have a perfect 45 degree angle.

54 minutes ago, Tvayumat said:

The sight lines really aren't necessary

Especially since the end of the range ruler is notched.

Or simply go corner through corner with a laser, that also gives you the 45° sight line.

I agree with (most) everybody that I prefer the trays nicely done up. It adds a lot to the look. But what I'd also like to see is transparent trays. That might look awesome on the table.

Same here. Basing the trays greatly improves the look.

Problem with basing my trays is twofold:

1) the trays are slick, and PVA glue doesnt like slick smooth surfaces. I thought about sanding them down a bit to give something to bite onto but...
2) I use regular sand, which is rather course, for my bases and paint them to look like gravel/dirt. That caused a nightmare trying to get the base to be covered and not get in the way of the puzzle pieces.

I just ripped up the basing material and gave up.

2 hours ago, Vineheart01 said:

2) I use regular sand, which is rather course, for my bases and paint them to look like gravel/dirt. That caused a nightmare trying to get the base to be covered and not get in the way of the puzzle pieces.

That's why I use paste. Using sand can be made to look better, but when you start filing down the edges it can chip into the base in very ugly ways. Basing paste can be filed down and built back up in ways that wont look terrible. Its just the high end wont look as good as well, which given the fact these arent in a painting competition I'm ok with.

1 minute ago, flightmaster101 said:

That's why I use paste. Using sand can be made to look better, but when you start filing down the edges it can chip into the base in very ugly ways. Basing paste can be filed down and built back up in ways that wont look terrible. Its just the high end wont look as good as well, which given the fact these arent in a painting competition I'm ok with.

if i didnt already have 44 bases with the sand, i would switch. But i think it would look odd having the trays with paste and the models with sand

I've based the figures with sand painted in leather brown and drybrushed with a bone color, and that seem to stick well. For the trays I'm planning to use Citadel's Stirland mud as I am under the impression that sticks better than sand and glue and is durable (but more expensive), which I will color in the same way as the sand. Has anyone tried any citadel texture paint on these trays and can comment on the result?

9 hours ago, Maktorius said:

Citadel's Stirland mud

If you haven't started do yourself a favor and go with Vallejo's dark earth.

2 hours ago, flightmaster101 said:

If you haven't started do yourself a favor and go with Vallejo's dark earth.

Could you please elaborate on the differences?

3 hours ago, Maktorius said:

Could you please elaborate on the differences?

Check out my thread 'Undead Army' which is on the front page atm...that is Vellejo Dark Earth(with a very quick lighter brown drybrush over top) on the bases.

22 hours ago, Maktorius said:

Could you please elaborate on the differences?

First it's cheaper. 6.99$ per 24 ml vs 14.99$ for 200ml.

second it's easier to shape into advanced shapes.

third the grain pattern is denser and closer to a sand base look.

but don't take my word for it. You'll find painting is about PREFERENCE, and that is mine. It's not right or wrong, I just want you to realize there's more options than paying gw's bills.

personally the only thing GW has done i find it really difficult to find alternatives for is the Blood for the Blood God paint

Unless i want to go through the pain in the *** mixings of various colors to get blood that way, that stuff is amazing. Straight from the pot, looks like legit, slightly shiny gore.
everything else? armypainter for me. Only reason i have GW's snow effect is because its all i could find

2 hours ago, Vineheart01 said:

personally the only thing GW has done i find it really difficult to find alternatives for is the Blood for the Blood God paint

Unless i want to go through the pain in the *** mixings of various colors to get blood that way, that stuff is amazing. Straight from the pot, looks like legit, slightly shiny gore.
everything else? armypainter for me. Only reason i have GW's snow effect is because its all i could find

Tamiya Clear Red. It's a better product for me. But it's alcohol based, so more work to clean afterwards. When I want faster results, I go with GWs.

I base the trays. Not a fan of the look of plain trays and based figs.

On 6/23/2017 at 4:40 PM, Vineheart01 said:

personally the only thing GW has done i find it really difficult to find alternatives for is the Blood for the Blood God paint

Unless i want to go through the pain in the *** mixings of various colors to get blood that way, that stuff is amazing. Straight from the pot, looks like legit, slightly shiny gore.
everything else? armypainter for me. Only reason i have GW's snow effect is because its all i could find

Give Army Painter fresh blood a shot, or Vallejo's blood effect.

GW's valhallan blizzard is *pretty much* crushed glass with pva glue mixed in. Look at Secret Weapon

I used Games Worshop's Agrellan Earth on all my trays and minis, and it looks great . Just paint the base in an aceptable colour, as the cracks will allow the color to seep through, i found no need for dry brushing as is.

Texturing top with aggrellan earth. No flock, no sides.