So, I'm thinking about getting started on painting my IA-figures. I've never really done something like that before, so I don't know what I need and especially what I don't need, so if there is anyone, who could provide some tips on the basics, I'd be delighted. I'm not aiming to excel at it, just put some decent color on the gray and tan...

Thanks.

I would follow sorastro's videos on YouTube. He will help you with basic painting techniques. I do recommend getting rosemary and company's kolinsky Sable brushes to paint with. As far as paint goes I recommend vallejo game and model color paint because it is half of citadel paints prices. Krylon primers are relatively inexpensive and provides good coverage with no detail loss.

Depends on how experienced you are. If you're new to painting, any acryllic paint should really do. They can run like 50 cents a pop for a decent sized bottle, so generally that's not a bad way to go.

As far as technique, sorastro seems to be the most popular. Also, make sure you're familiar with certain terms, like "drybrushing" and "wash".

Good brush, perhaps a magnifying visor, whatever paint you have, thin it enough.

Then just practice, find out what works for you. Don't worry about it, you can always paint over or even strip the paint if you apply too think of a coat.

Drybrushing, highlighting, shading and washes are advanced techniques you need to worry about when your own requirements increase.

I had never painted a figure before and I started with Sorastro's videos. He is a great teacher and the video quality is amazing. He uses citadel paints but you can use the Vallejo conversion chart to save money. I would start with a few basic paints on the storm troopers in video 1 and go from there. Like any hobby it can be an expensive buy in but long term costs are minimal.

Here is his thread in the painting sub forum:

https://community.fantasyflightgames.com/topic/133635-sorastros-painting/

Boomers paint conversion thread:

https://community.fantasyflightgames.com/topic/192787-boomers-paint-page-and-conversion-charts/

And Sorastro's patreon

https://www.patreon.com/Sorastros

I'm just getting started myself on painting, so i think I can help. I'm a TERRIBLE artist but the videos/threads out there really helped me get going.

I spent about $100. Here's what I bought:

- Citadel washed ($35). This is going to be key to get nice shadows on your figure. They aren't NECESSARY. But... your figures will be quite flat if you don' have them. I also bought Matte Medium for $14 to try and make my own wash. That was a bad idea.

- Acrylic paint set ($20) I got 36 colors for 20 bucks cheap at hobby lobby. I decided I wasn't going to buy the expensive paints as I'm a beginner and I figured that I could get a fine product with cheap paints. I wasn't looking to be an expert painter, just to make the figures look better on the table.

- Brush set ($20) Again, went with cheaper brushes and got a range from 10/0 to 5. I use the 10/0 and 0 the most. I do find that I want a 00 for small details and I don't have it.

- Distilled water ($1) Better on the brushes

- Krylon spray primers ($13) These were on sale, I got White, Gray and Black. These are essential as if you don't prime, especially using cheap acrylics, the paint may not stick well

- Varnish spray ($8) To spray on figures after I'm complete

- Pallette ($3) Went cheap here.

The other things I had were 3x magnification reading glasses and a very nice white light for painting. I get very close up to my figures to paint them.

I've learned valuable lessons early on.

1) Don't go fast. If you go fast you are going to find yourself wanting to touch up everything and its going to take more time anyway.

2) Experiment. I failed on Loku's skin color at first and then started over and really like the result.

3) Thin your paints! My biv character is going to always be kind of "gloppy". Which isn't a word, I know. But the paint was too thick and his face just looks weird. Again, on Loku with the thinned paints I really like the result much more

4) Put VERY LITTLE paint on your detail brushes. If you dip the whole brush in it will be extremely hard to paint details. Get the brush dry and then just dab a little paint on the end. Use it, repeat.

I'm a TERRIBLE artist, trust me. And I'm quite pleased with how this is going (I'll post pics eventually). Sorastro and other guides on the internet were helpful, but once you do it I would encourage you to just find some pictures online and use your own interpretation.

Thinning your paints is the best tip i learned from Sorastro. Applying multiple thin layers allows you to gradually build up a solid color without compromising detail. I screwed up a bit on Jyn's face as well and it is very one dimensional with no pockets left for eyes with to thick of paint. It happens to you once or twice and then you learn.

Fantastic advice, people, thanks a bunch. I've watched a bit of Sorastro and that is going to be a great help. And especially thanks for the advice on what paint and what brushes to get... I'm getting I can just get what I need from Amazon?

Again, thanks.

I guess it also depends where you live. Paints are easy to get here. Brushes however... Rosemary and Co.'s brushes are not available here in Finland without ordering them from abroad so I've used Army Painter's Wargaming series (White triangular handle) and Army Painter's Kolinsky Master Class (rather expensive brush with black triangular handle). Those are all rather nice and cheaper than Citadel brushes. I also found that ClasOhlson sells Kolinsky brushes size 00, 1 and 2 (and larger). They're meant mostly for acrylic painting on canvas but they work brilliantly for miniatures as well, are good quality and most importantly: cheap.

Also, when you store brushes, keep them in a jar or something so that the bristles face up. It helps keep the point sharp and the brush stays in good condition a lot longer.

Welcome to the hobby!

*troll post*

Can of white paint+ small straining basket + gravity = Storm troopers.

Can of black paint+ same small straining basket(preferably cleaned and dry) + gravity + red lipstick = Darth Vader!

Red Lipstick = Guards!

Beef Stroganoff + gravity + your hands = Ugnaughts, Tuskens, Jabba, Rancor, Weequay,

*end troll post*

Thanks for asking this. I really need some info, too. I've been looking at the reaper bones beginner kit, and the army painter beginner kit. I can't make a decision just yet.

Fantastic advice, people, thanks a bunch. I've watched a bit of Sorastro and that is going to be a great help. And especially thanks for the advice on what paint and what brushes to get... I'm getting I can just get what I need from Amazon?

Again, thanks.

It just depends on where you live. I would recommend if you live in the states either miniature market for reaper, vallejo, and army painter paint. Scalehobbyist.com for vallejo paint and Miniature-giant.com for reaper paint. You will save some money using those places than amazon. The bottles of paint go for over 5 bucks there.

The first thing you should do is set up some time with your money so you can give it a proper goodbye.

The first thing you should do is set up some time with your money so you can give it a proper goodbye.

... and try not to think about how you've nearly spent more on paints than on buying the game. (I just realized that yesterday... )

Depends on how much you want to spend. I can't afford $100+ for materials, so I use floor polish to seal (I like glossy finish though I know many don't), distilled water (mix with a little color and floor polish for a wash), apple barrel paints (thin with floor polish), and flat white spray paint (for primer). My figures aren't perfect, but they are good and I've gotten better the more I do.

Time, practice, patience, and techniques make a bigger difference than materials. Do some research on techniques.

Btw, has anyone tried acrylics on FFG figures without primer?

(I'm using enamels and never use primer.)

Btw, has anyone tried acrylics on FFG figures without primer?

(I'm using enamels and never use primer.)

Nope, I've never tried that. All I've ever read is that primer makes the paint stick better so that's why I do.

I use krylon colormaster primer it's inexpensive around 4 bucks a can and in 4 colors. That way the paint won't flake off.

Wal-Mart flat white spray paint. $1 a can and never had a problem.

It is expensive to go the citadel route, but every time I think I've spent to much money on this game I just go out in the garage and look at my tackle box and think how there is about $1000 of fishing related gear in the same amount of space as this game takes up on my book shelf and I feel better about myself.

In the world of hobbies it is par for the course.. and lets not even add in the fishing rods/reels and camping/outdoor gear I use with that tackle box.. Everyone has different priorities and different budgets, just find where this hobby fits for you and go with it. ANYTHING looks better than the dull grey they come as, so just have fun with it.

Yeah, having a hobby costs some money, but that's just a fact of life. If it improves my quality of life, I'm ready to pay for it.

I'm going down to my LGS tomorrow to see what they have and support them, instead of throwing money at Amazon or whatever. We'll see where it ends. Thanks for all the help.

So, I've started painting.. now I need a massage and/or a chiropractor.. So far, it's only been some sloppy practice runs on the Probe Droids and Storm Troopers, but I just wanted to say thanks for all the tips again. Sorastro's insanely good... wow.

4 minutes ago, GyldenDamgaard said:

So, I've started painting.. now I need a massage and/or a chiropractor.. So far, it's only been some sloppy practice runs on the Probe Droids and Storm Troopers, but I just wanted to say thanks for all the tips again. Sorastro's insanely good... wow.

I had stiff shoulders and neck pain when I started as well. Practice and getting better and more comfortable with the brush helps since you get more confident and can paint more relaxed.

If possible, try to get a light source that comes from above your shoulder and bit behind. That way the light itself guides you to sit straighter. Also maybe support your elbows against the table and hold the figure at eye level.

If the light source is in front of you, that sort of encourages you to lean forward in order for the figure to get light so you end up in hunched over position and it will hurt over time.

I read those tips from a wargaming figure painting book (can't remember the name right now. I can check it later) which had a big part of a chapter dedicated to ergonomic working conditions. As I have a desk lamp that's in front of me, I've also noted that I tend to paint hunched over and it's not good. When painting I also like to stand up every 30 minutes or so, move my shoulders up and back, stretch my arms and legs a little and then continue.

for good basic level painting, try the range from The Army Painter. Their Quickshade is fairly easy to use and adds decent shadows, saves you buying a ton of washes. The method is simple - paint on base colours, use Quickshade, matt varnish, done!

While Sorastro's videos are excellent, he uses a lot of layering which may be difficult for the beginner (i still struggle with layering after years lol). However, his Descent videos show how to use Quickshade from Army Painter to good effect.

Word of warning - With Quickshade, would recommend you do not use it from the pot. take some out with a spoon and thin it a little with turps or white spirit. Painting the Quickshade on the miniature is better and less messy than dipping the whole thing in the can. You can also do touch-ups after it has set (24-48 hours).

And as it darkens the whole mini, always paint the base colours a little lighter.

Washes by Citadel and some others (including Army Painter) tend to dry with a "muddy" effect, meaning you have a lot of cleanup or layering afterwards to produce a good finish. I have found that the new gloss washes from Citadel dont do this as much, and really do draw away from the flat surface to fill up the nooks and crannies. You still have some cleanup to do, but not as much as normal washes. Though it dries glossy, you can easily matt is back down with some varnish. The pigment is also very strong. For an example between the normal and gloss washes, see their video

Some other tips - i have found layering stormtroopers to be a nightmare. got good results applying a strong base coat of spray white and just adding a touch of very dilute grey to give soft shadows in the recess. paint the armour with gloss varnish, and the shine gives enough highlight to make a passable stormtrooper.

Learn how to drybrush. you can get good simple effects with little effort.

Hope this helps, and happy painting!

I began painting with IA as well.

My suggestions: Vallejo paint is awesome but expensive when first starting out. Cheap craft paint works fine if sufficiently thinned with distilled water. Once those tubes start running out, replace them with good Vallejo stuff.

I've had great success by just blocking off sections of color (highlighting and dry brushing not really needed for most models) then using "talent in a bottle" Nuln Oil over everything. Soak up large pooled areas before it dries and the Nuln Oil will do an amazing job of providing shadows and depth. You won't have display level models, but they look great on the board and it's relatively quick. Make sure you seal with either a spray or brush on varnish (I prefer matt varnish).

One caveat, Nuln Oil does not work well with white so storm troopers require more care with where the null oil goes. You will need to paint white back over the armor after.

Adding to what some others have said; You need to prime (type of spray primer doesn't matter much, but shake it a LOT before spraying) and priming should consist of a very light coat, almost like a dusting. You want just enough to for the paint to adhere. You also don't want to go cheap on the brush. The bristles on cheap brushes will pull out and stick to your models, very annoying.

I have a question. I haven't started painting IA stuff, but I used to paint D&D metal miniatures a long time ago. If you screw up, can you strip the paint off the miniature without damaging it?