Talk about frustrating, how are the arms supposed to attach to the hands? Above the hand? Below the hand? End to end?
Especially for the leader with his raised fist. It doesn't seem like the right arm and handlebar hand fit together at all. I just mashed the forearm into the hand on the handlebar end to end with a precarious drop of super glue filling the gap.
6 minutes ago, Walsh said:Talk about frustrating, how are the arms supposed to attach to the hands? Above the hand? Below the hand? End to end?
Especially for the leader with his raised fist. It doesn't seem like the right arm and handlebar hand fit together at all. I just mashed the forearm into the hand on the handlebar end to end with a precarious drop of super glue filling the gap.
The wrists just kind of meld into the hand. I would definitely use plastic glue though, for A) stronger bond and B) so you can move the limbs around while you attach the wrists.
7 minutes ago, Orkimedes said:The wrists just kind of meld into the hand. I would definitely use plastic glue though, for A) stronger bond and B) so you can move the limbs around while you attach the wrists.
There can be too much play with plastic glue because the shoulder joint and forearm wiggle while trying to align the angle of the feet (so the arm is close enough to the handlebar). There's just too much wiggle with plastic cement and I gave up using it for the wrist joint. Needed something faster drying.
59 minutes ago, Walsh said:There can be too much play with plastic glue because the shoulder joint and forearm wiggle while trying to align the angle of the feet (so the arm is close enough to the handlebar). There's just too much wiggle with plastic cement and I gave up using it for the wrist joint. Needed something faster drying.
I put this in another thread, but my process for assembling them was as follows (using plastic glue):
1. Assemble the STAP itself, including the handlebar
2. Glue the B1's legs to the torso, using a dry fit on the STAP to get the leg spacing correct. Let the glue dry before moving to the next step.
3. Glue one of the arms to the B1. Once the glue sets enough that the arm won't fall off (but can still be moved), put a drop of glue on the B1's feet and on the back of the hand on the handlebar that corresponds to the arm that has already been glued on.
4. Set the B1's feet in position on the STAP, then pivot the body towards the STAP until the wrist joint on the arm can make contact with the glue on the handlebars, making careful adjustments as necessary.
5. Before that glue has dried, glue on the other arm, making adjustments as necessary to achieve proper alignment.
The STAP can be balanced facedown using the guns to hold it upright. This helps to keep the B1 in the proper position while the glue dries.
1 hour ago, Walsh said:too much play with plastic glue
I’ve found it helps to add glue to the contact points you will be using next and let it rest for 30 seconds or so. Then when you put your pieces into position, they bond more quickly but are still pliable enough to get a good position.
I essentially did what @Lochlan did. The only thing I’d consider doing differently is leaving the handles and feet unglued until painting is complete if it’s important to you to get a higher level of detail.
I'll be honest, I got the starter set for Clone Wars and putting together the droids immediately put me off making an army. The models look really cool and were fun to paint, but I did one squad and knew I didn't want to do another. The STAPs gave me a heart attack when I first saw them!
CIS is the worst army to assemble but the easiest to paint
15 hours ago, evo454 said:I'll be honest, I got the starter set for Clone Wars and putting together the droids immediately put me off making an army. The models look really cool and were fun to paint, but I did one squad and knew I didn't want to do another. The STAPs gave me a heart attack when I first saw them!
I'll take them off your hands it you like
16 hours ago, evo454 said:I'll be honest, I got the starter set for Clone Wars and putting together the droids immediately put me off making an army. The models look really cool and were fun to paint, but I did one squad and knew I didn't want to do another. The STAPs gave me a heart attack when I first saw them!
The B1 droids themselves are super easy to assemble, they just look fiddly because they are so thin.
Get a Plano case or some other organizer with at least 7 slots, cut out each droid's parts, and put the pieces all together in a slot.
I usually glued the arm to the blaster, let that dry, then pinched both arms on with a dab of glue in each shoulder. The legs go match to a peg. Then you are basically done 😆
Edited by Walsh2 hours ago, RejjeN said:I'll take them off your hands it you like
I'd let you but i already gave them to another friend in our Legion group cause he wanted to expand his. Traded him for some empire models since he doesn't play that army anymore.
2 hours ago, Walsh said:The B1 droids themselves are super easy to assemble, they just look fiddly because they are so thin.
Get a Plano case or some other organizer with at least 7 slots, cut out each droid's parts, and put the pieces all together in a slot.
I usually glued the arm to the blaster, let that dry, then pinched both arms on with a dab of glue in each shoulder. The legs go match to a peg. Then you are basically done 😆
You sound like you were far better at it than I was! I just decided to stick to building armies centered around dudes in white armor!
4 hours ago, Walsh said:Get a Plano case or some other organizer with at least 7 slots, cut out each droid's parts, and put the pieces all together in a slot.
Egg cartons work really well for this too.
The assembly itself isn't too difficult, but I do find it baffling that they felt the need to remove the assembly instructions from the paper they still include. It shows all of the parts pictured. It shows what it looks like when they're completed. And there's a large blank area where they could have pictured the assembly but opted instead to show us how good they are at wasting paper.
Instead of having 25% of the leaflet taken up by a pointless white void, why not print something like...I dunno...assembly instructions??
14 minutes ago, Sekac said:The assembly itself isn't too difficult, but I do find it baffling that they felt the need to remove the assembly instructions from the paper they still include. It shows all of the parts pictured. It shows what it looks like when they're completed. And there's a large blank area where they could have pictured the assembly but opted instead to show us how good they are at wasting paper.
Instead of having 25% of the leaflet taken up by a pointless white void, why not print something like...I dunno...assembly instructions??
Yeah... it's a little vexing that they don't have the instructions in the box anymore.
That said I've found CIS to be the easiest army overall to get a good look with the least effort; the assembly is certainly more difficult than the mono-pose models from the original core set, but it is still a fair bit easier than most GW kits, and you get a lot of customization and pose options with the ball joints. They are also exceptionally easy to paint with quick-painting techniques and look great afterwards, because of how easy their hard edges and many crevices lend themselves to things like washes and drybrushing.
Agreed on all points.
If you want tough to build minis, try Infinity. Great game and beautiful models, but ****. Pewter models with dynamic poses and some truly insane joins--imagine if the backpack antenna was a separate piece!
Unpopular opinion: CIS models are amazing to assemble, hard plastic is vastly superior to PVC, super simple models like STAP dont need detailed instructions, because they are so easy to build. Source: my 6 units of B1, 2 units of staps, 2 units of droitekas, 2 units of BX and 2 versions of Grievous.
Also, wait for the plastic glue to dry a bit (30 seconds) and attach the droid to the pre assembled STAP. It's so easy I can't fathom how it can be difficult for anyone, and plastic glue is so much more convenient to work with compared to superglue. It allows you to play around with poses, but when its completely dry it's so strong. What else can you wish for 🙂
I've always hated plastic glue and will never touch the stuff. When models get dropped, I want them to break where I glued them, so I can re-glue them. Drop a plastic-cemented model and it'll break somewhere not designed to be broken and much harder to fix.
It's also extremely difficult to ever change the model's weapons or whatever as editions and metas change.
45 minutes ago, SubOctavian said:super simple models like STAP dont need detailed instructions, because they are so easy to build.
Nobody said they needed detailed instructions, it's just pointless not to include them since they created them anyway. They just decided not to print them for some reason.
It's not to save paper, because they still include an insert. It just seems odd to me that they prioritized:
1) A part list with 3-D renderings of each part that gives you the exact same information the sprue gives and nothing more. I know the handlebars are B08, because it's molded into the sprue, why show a picture of it as well?
2) 25% of the insert is completely blank paper.
They already paid somebody to create the assembly instructions and they already include a piece of paper that has the space for the instructions and they decide not to for...uhh...ink savings?
From the ATST instructions just posted, I would say that they didn't print those assembly instructions because they decided to reinvent the wheel with there own drawing standard. There might be consumer product instruction standard for this, but honestly ANSI standards should have been enough. But it now has instructions even if pretty and colorful with giant arrows that might prove to be a hassle to use in certain situations.
By the way, I just got my STAP, however...
... Does there come with any unit card? Only 4 upgrade cards in the box...
On 10/17/2020 at 3:11 AM, jedsky said:By the way, I just got my STAP, however...
... Does there come with any unit card? Only 4 upgrade cards in the box...
They should. if yours didn't I would suggest contacting FFG for replacement.