I have a game table but it’s a little small for this. I was thinking of getting some type of table topper, nothing fancy. Just something i can get thats big enough to go on top. I was thinking a 4x6 sheet of plywood, but my table has padded arm rests. I was at lowes and they have 2 inch thick foam sheets that i thought might work. Basically this:
anyone have any other ideas? Thanks in advance.
Dont do that, the fibres will kill you eventually.
Hmm. Didnt think about that. I was thinking a sheet of drywall since it’s large enough and flat. I might just have to go with plywood
7 minutes ago, titojackson84 said:Hmm. Didnt think about that. I was thinking a sheet of drywall since it’s large enough and flat. I might just have to go with plywood
Its not well known to be fair. We all know asbestos fibres are dangerous, but less know that breathing in any fibres isnt great. Not usually a major problem, just not something to encourage. Insulation is meant for the walls and ceiling behind plaster, lets leave it to that use.
we play on a 3x3 table. We do take away one of the obstacles for our play but in the end does not affect the game all that much. Add in a little house rules etc and all is good
Exact size is only necessary in tournaments. Have fun at home!
I have a small table that's 4 feet long with a width of less than 3 feet. I ended getting a foam folding display board(usually used for science fair projects). The display board is 4x3 and works great for small 3x3 games.
We've had success with a 4x6 of corrigated(sp?) cardboard, and more cardboard taped / glued in place on the "down" side so that it fits over the table.
If I can give my advice, I build my table out of 4x8 MDF 1/2" thick, the surface finish is better than plywood and come around the same price.
I managed to get a 3x8 foot countertop from Ikea's as-is section for $10. As table toppers go, it's hard to beat.
We use MDF boards as they dont splinter, are strong and we can buy them off the shelf in 3x6 sheets. but I think MDF is banned in the US
Again I use MDF, can get it cut into smaller sections for storage, mine are in 2' lengths with clips. Why would the US ban MDF?
We have mdf here. I plan on having 600 or higher games. The playable area is only like 2.5 feet x about 5 feet. Because the edges are padded, i was thinking of plywood or mdf and screwing wood that would fit into the cup holders that would raise it above the padding so i didnt ruin it. I wasnt sure if there was a better/lighter alternative to plywood or mdf
Ssd was on just to show someone. It’s the only pic of the table.
Edited by titojackson844x8 sheets of pink or blue foam insulation. Been used for decades by model railroaders. Can be stacked, glued, carved, sanded and otherwise manipulated. Totally safe unless your wife gets mad about all staticy foam stuff sticking to everything.
2.5 by 5 aint that bad. Just drop deployment zone to distance 2 rather than distance 3 and it will be alright.
There are a few lists that can warp it but I doubt you'll notice the difference.
I suggest getting a 3,5 x 7,5 sq feet plywood board, about 1/3 inch thick. That should be sturdy enough for your matches and leaves you the necessary space for your ship cards. If that size is too big for storage, you can get two boards half that size.
As to prevent damage to the table padding, just use some old woolen blanket. Easy to store. 😉
It's not exactly pocket change, but a 6x4 lightweight table that collapses to a size that's easy to store and transport has been a godsend for getting in a game of Armada anywhere I need to.
Storing up small helps keep it unobtrusive in a closet when it's not in use, which is an advantage over the 6x4 (or larger) table toppers, which can be fairly thin but still take up 6x4 space up against a wall or whatever and are difficult to maneuver.
On 11/28/2019 at 4:59 PM, Ginkapo said:Dont do that, the fibres will kill you eventually.
The foam linked is functionally high density foam. Also modern insulation is made of fiber glass, won't kill you.
On 11/28/2019 at 5:04 PM, titojackson84 said:Hmm. Didnt think about that. I was thinking a sheet of drywall since it’s large enough and flat. I might just have to go with plywood
What you posted is used in model railroading and other hobbies to make terrain. It's perfectly safe to use.
On 11/29/2019 at 12:27 AM, X Wing Nut said:We use MDF boards as they dont splinter, are strong and we can buy them off the shelf in 3x6 sheets. but I think MDF is banned in the US
You can buy MDF in the states.
3 hours ago, Grathew said:Also modern insulation is made of fiber glass, won't kill you.
All fibres hurt the lungs in sufficient quantity.
I was at Lowes yesterday and they had a $40 folding table that was 6x3. No room to spare and not quite as compact as the Aplha table Snipa linked to, but it is cheap.
5 hours ago, Ginkapo said:All fibres hurt the lungs in sufficient quantity.
While I agree with you, I also reeeally want to make fun of you for huffing shredded insulation.
I'm conflicted here... 😕
On 11/29/2019 at 8:48 AM, titojackson84 said:We have mdf here. I plan on having 600 or higher games. The playable area is only like 2.5 feet x about 5 feet. Because the edges are padded, i was thinking of plywood or mdf and screwing wood that would fit into the cup holders that would raise it above the padding so i didnt ruin it. I wasnt sure if there was a better/lighter alternative to plywood or mdf
Ssd was on just to show someone. It’s the only pic of the table.
I've made a few collapsible, upholstered tabletoppers to go on my countertop, kitchen table, and drop-leaf table, and take to an FLGS that at the time lacked big enough tables. I'll try and think through some considerations based on my experience, but there are of course gonna be some personal factors that come into play here.
Some considerations: how portable do you need it to be? Do you need it to collapse down small for storage? Will it usually be up, and only taken down occasionally, or will you have to set it up and tear it down every week? Do you have a mat you're going to lay on top of it for the play surface, or will the tabletopper be your play surface directly?
I think your idea of putting "posts" in the cupholders sounds like a pretty good one, assuming they're at the four corners and mid table. Personally, I'd do that, then use plywood (if you want to upholster or otherwise finish it) or MDF for the tabletopper surface. While you could probably get away with thickly-felted or rubber feet directly on the table, that's easy for me to say as the guy that doesn't have to replace a nice poker table top if it doesn't work out.
You should consider up front, though, that that's likely to limit your portability/storability options. Generally you'd cut the board into 3 2'x4' pieces so they fit in car trunks, are small/light enough to carry, fit through doors, etc. Since your table will only be supporting the topper at those six points, your three sections are each going to be individually unstable in that scenario, meaning you're probably looking at one big 6x4 or, at best, two 3x4 pieces. That's not necessarily a bad thing if your situation will accommodate it, just consider it.
Another option might be felting the narrow edge of a few 2x4's, laying those directly on the felt tabletop, and then placing your tabletoppers on top of those. That would have the disadvantage that you're still putting something directly on the poker table surface, but with the upside that you can have a more stable play surface, and can chop the tabletopper into smaller pieces for ease of storage, setup/teardown, and portability.
My friend’s solution was to make the table infinite.
If a ship navigated off the table, it landed on the exact opposite side of the table.
Ive made two custom table toppers for Armada.
The first go was out of plywood, two pieces, 4x3 and 4x3, I glued magnets to the seams that held them together pretty well. The main issues with them was bulk and weight. Not good for taking it with you to a friends or FLGS.
My second table topper was made out of the pink craft foam boards you can find at Home Depot or Lowed. Theyre 2x2 so I picked up 6. Spray painted them black and planned on using magnets but the 6x3 play may is weighty enough to hold all 6 pieces in place. They're light but would slip when being carried together so to carry them together I used an old woodworking clamp.
Drawbacks to to the foam include nudging, and you can't lean on or into it, it will bust or dent.
this was the only one i could find online that is 3 feet wide. Most everything else is 2.5 ft. Am i correct in that when setting up, the 3x6 area is where you take set up measurements from? The deployment zones are within the 3 feet?