So with the help of loctite ultracontrol gel and plenty of bourbon, I have managed to assemble most of the b1's.

I apologize for the frustration guys, but I don't think I've ever been that pissed off at an assembly process before and, like i said, this is with 30 years of mini assembly experience. (and the loss of dexterity over that time compared to some of the kids here probably didn't make my experience any easier - at lest in that regard I can't *****, I am not the target demographic anymore)

For those of you having a hard time, there is some amazing advice up there, especially the Simonsays3 guide. It really helped.

38 minutes ago, loki_tbc said:

So with the help of loctite ultracontrol gel and plenty of bourbon, I have managed to assemble most of the b1's.

I apologize for the frustration guys, but I don't think I've ever been that pissed off at an assembly process before and, like i said, this is with 30 years of mini assembly experience. (and the loss of dexterity over that time compared to some of the kids here probably didn't make my experience any easier - at lest in that regard I can't *****, I am not the target demographic anymore)

For those of you having a hard time, there is some amazing advice up there, especially the Simonsays3 guide. It really helped.

I am glad you made it through! Now enjoy the spoils of your efforts!

1 hour ago, loki_tbc said:

So with the help of loctite ultracontrol gel and plenty of bourbon, I have managed to assemble most of the b1's.

I apologize for the frustration guys, but I don't think I've ever been that pissed off at an assembly process before and, like i said, this is with 30 years of mini assembly experience. (and the loss of dexterity over that time compared to some of the kids here probably didn't make my experience any easier - at lest in that regard I can't *****, I am not the target demographic anymore)

For those of you having a hard time, there is some amazing advice up there, especially the Simonsays3 guide. It really helped.

Nice. The nice thing about the B1s is once you are done, you are done. Everything else should be pretty easy from now on

One other tip I picked up; someone on Facebook suggested using super glue for the legs, bases, and backpacks, and plastic glue for the arms and heads. Personally I always glue my fingers together on spindly models like this with super glue, but I could see doing it this way to get a good quick bonded “base” to start each model from (legs, torso, backpack, base).

@loki_tbc I'm glad you were able to power through!

Is there a reason you were using superglue for the hard plastic minis? I only ask because as part of the switch to hard plastic, "plastic glue" works on the miniatures that come on the sprue (and the BARC bike itself I believe according to the instructions). I vastly prefer plastic glue to super in part because plastic glue does not bond with skin, and is often tackier so helps hold pieces in place while they are drying.

45 minutes ago, Caimheul1313 said:

@loki_tbc I'm glad you were able to power through!

Is there a reason you were using superglue for the hard plastic minis? I only ask because as part of the switch to hard plastic, "plastic glue" works on the miniatures that come on the sprue (and the BARC bike itself I believe according to the instructions). I vastly prefer plastic glue to super in part because plastic glue does not bond with skin, and is often tackier so helps hold pieces in place while they are drying.

I can't speak for him, but I used the same thing. For me, gel super glue has always been easier to use. It seemed to me the superglue set instantly too. I'm not sure if plastic glue is the same, but I was able to set parts just by placing them in the glue. They'd bind almost instantly. Really, the last factor was the ability to reset mistakes without warping the plastic. (From what I understand plastic glue forms a weld by melting the parts together?)

1 hour ago, Darth Sanguis said:

I can't speak for him, but I used the same thing. For me, gel super glue has always been easier to use. It seemed to me the superglue set instantly too. I'm not sure if plastic glue is the same, but I was able to set parts just by placing them in the glue. They'd bind almost instantly. Really, the last factor was the ability to reset mistakes without warping the plastic. (From what I understand plastic glue forms a weld by melting the parts together?)

My super glue (Locktite ultra gel control or gel control) doesn't set instantaneously without introducing accelerator/water (breathing on it like you do to fog a window) which weakens the bond, so I end up sitting holding the parts together until it starts to set. The glue LOVES to bond parts to my hand though, more so than the other part I want to attach it to, even with scoring both pieces (which there isn't a lot of space for on the B1s).

Testors plastic glue though (the red tube is what I use), doesn't bond to my hands, and melts the parts together so I don't have issues with the parts breaking off later, especially on small connection points, and is tacky enough while it works I don't end up holding stuff together for 30 seconds. Also, having the time when it is tacky and not fully set makes attaching arms to shoulders and weapons so much easier for me. Attach arm holding gun, then attach other arm to both shoulder and gun at the same time before the glue completely sets, meaning you can move the arms around a bit if needed to get them all lined up.

4 hours ago, loki_tbc said:

So with the help of loctite ultracontrol gel and plenty of bourbon, I have managed to assemble most of the b1's.

I apologize for the frustration guys, but I don't think I've ever been that pissed off at an assembly process before and, like i said, this is with 30 years of mini assembly experience. (and the loss of dexterity over that time compared to some of the kids here probably didn't make my experience any easier - at lest in that regard I can't *****, I am not the target demographic anymore)

For those of you having a hard time, there is some amazing advice up there, especially the Simonsays3 guide. It really helped.

You want to be pissed, try the defunct Robotech tactics.. *Shudder*

Trust me, with my blood pressure, being pissed is the last thing I want / need.

@Caimheul1313 I bought some testors plastic cement (not the red bottle, but the triangular black one with the plastic spout) but the glue didn't seem to bond at all and it was sliding around. Once I went ultra control gel, I still had a few "cussing up a blue streak"moments but for the most part it was just about patience.

I also typically use superglue because it bonds almost instantly. Plastic cement I've used in the past seems to take a long time to form that weld that I want. Up to 15 minutes occasionally. If you're not worried about the durability factor and are gentle with your models (and transport them with care), super glue will keep your models together just fine. If a piece breaks off you can just glue it back with no harm done, but in my 5+ years of miniature gaming that has never happened to me. I guess I'll update this post after I get the B1's tomorrow.

52 minutes ago, loki_tbc said:

Trust me, with my blood pressure, being pissed is the last thing I want / need.

@Caimheul1313 I bought some testors plastic cement (not the red bottle, but the triangular black one with the plastic spout) but the glue didn't seem to bond at all and it was sliding around. Once I went ultra control gel, I still had a few "cussing up a blue streak"moments but for the most part it was just about patience.

Ah okay, I haven't tried that stuff. The red tube is what I use, not as precise of an applicator, but it is tackier, so provides some hold while you wait for it to dry.

4 minutes ago, Dcalov said:

I also typically use superglue because it bonds almost instantly. Plastic cement I've used in the past seems to take a long time to form that weld that I want. Up to 15 minutes occasionally. If you're not worried about the durability factor and are gentle with your models (and transport them with care), super glue will keep your models together just fine. If a piece breaks off you can just glue it back with no harm done, but in my 5+ years of miniature gaming that has never happened to me. I guess I'll update this post after I get the B1's tomorrow.

I actually don't WANT an instant bond some of the time, I want some time to move bits around if necessary.

I have a toddler and am mildly cumsy, so I want my models to be able to absorb some amount of droppage.

Plus, as I've mentioned before, I often have small bits (like say a B1's head) stick to my hand rather than the other half of the head when using super glue. It does vastly prefer human skin (which was one of the first uses discovered for the chemicals that make up super glue if I recall correctly...).

8 minutes ago, Caimheul1313 said:

It does vastly prefer human skin (which was one of the first uses discovered for the chemicals that make up super glue if I recall correctly...).

Yup. That's why the ge version is so handy. I got a little glue on my fingers but the gel helped me be precise with where I was placing.

I planned on trying plastic glue for the droids, but I had stock on hand of the gel super glue and it went smooth. Maybe with the B2s? lol

31 minutes ago, Darth Sanguis said:

Yup. That's why the ge version is so handy. I got a little glue on my fingers but the gel helped me be precise with where I was placing.

I planned on trying plastic glue for the droids, but I had stock on hand of the gel super glue and it went smooth. Maybe with the B2s? lol

Having only used the Gel version, I've still had that issue. Often I either have too little glue to hold the parts together while they are drying, or just a little bit too much resulting on it slightly squeezing out the side. Not so much that it noticeable after the glue dries or the model is painted, but just enough that if my finger touches that area of the model, the limb is going with me instead.

I also have some relatively minor issues with grip strength since my carpal tunnel surgery on my dominant hand, and occasionally just drop a small thing I am holding. Super glue makes finding that piece and picking up a bit more urgent.... 😛

58 minutes ago, Dcalov said:

I also typically use superglue because it bonds almost instantly. Plastic cement I've used in the past seems to take a long time to form that weld that I want. Up to 15 minutes occasionally. If you're not worried about the durability factor and are gentle with your models (and transport them with care), super glue will keep your models together just fine. If a piece breaks off you can just glue it back with no harm done, but in my 5+ years of miniature gaming that has never happened to me. I guess I'll update this post after I get the B1's tomorrow.

Honestly, Zap a Gap is all I ever use for plastics now. Good dry time, enough initial adherence to be able to hold parts in place easily and forms a good overall bond. Don't even consider other glues for plastic modelling anymore.

The only sprues I have worked with before were the Shadespire/Nightvault push fits and even then, the B1s were a breeze to assemble, as were the droidekas (the wheel version being a lot simpler).

The droideka diagram was fine, look at a reference picture from the Clone Wars core article and you'll be fine.

B1 diagrams look complex but the only thing you need them for is to recognize which is the front of the torso before you build your first B1 droid. It's not hard to know where the head, 2 arms and 2 legs and a backpack should go.

As for the process - this has worked well for me:

0. Use plastic glue, not superglue.

1. Clip parts for each droid into separate piles = 1 pile - 1 droid (they are clearly labeled with a letter + numbers, you don't need to pay attention to the numbers at all)

2. Glue the two head parts first and set aside

3. Glue the backpack onto the body. The belly side with the little dot sticking out around the bottom left rib-cage area is the front.

4. Glue the left arm wrist into the gun. Leave to set a for a few seconds.

5. Put small amount of glue onto the shoulder joints on the torso, wrap the two glued together arms around the torso and attach the arms to the shoulder joints. Move around into the desired pose now. Then let set.

6. Glue the legs. The connection points are semi-circles, it's quite obvious how they should go on.

7. Glue the feet to the base.

8. Attach the head and move it around into a cool pose.

Tip 1:
Use the gifs and renders from the articles for reference.

Tip 2:
Get a friend or a family member to help. It's easier to get into the assembly when you have fewer droids you yourself have to assemble.

I think someone mentioned a way to get four arms under Grievous's cloak? How?

2 hours ago, GreatMazinkaiser said:

I think someone mentioned a way to get four arms under Grievous's cloak? How?

The thing that would not fit are the shoulder flaps. You can position the upper arms a bit lower to fit under the cloak but you'll have to glue the flaps elsewhere, not in their default slot on one of the arms. Or skip the shoulder flaps?

I have Grievous with the cape, gun in right arm, and left arm separated with the two lightsabers. I glued the shoulder flap on the left to the underside of the cape instead of to the top of the arms.