I just watched the Fantasy Flight Games live stream on putting together models on frames.

OK, to start, I realize this is aimed at a player base that (generally) has limited working knowledge of hard plastic models, so here are my critiques:

1) poor explanation of plastic glue, how it works, manufacturers and the most ideal (Tamiya Extra Thin master race). Like, why can’t they get into which glue to use? What corporate lawyer bantha poo doo is that?

2) limited/no explanation on the various different tools, like side cutters, files, x-acto knives, mold line removers, and the careful and considered use thereof

3) camera was poorly positioned in low orbit. I may as well been watching from the second story.

4) The guys hands were permanently in the way, no frame close ups.

5) No actual step by step alongside the instructions to guide new players

Like, FFG, did you even look up @Crabbok‘s videos? Or any other game company in the hard plastic design space for guidance?

FFG drops the ball again...

Totally agree with you.

I was happy they tried. It’ll get better as they learn

They're doing their best.

Can we continue using superglue, or is there some downside to that that I’m unaware of?

Just now, Derrault said:

Can we continue using superglue, or is there some downside to that that I’m unaware of?

Because plastic glue can “melt” this type of plastic, the bond is a lot stronger

1 minute ago, TalkPolite said:

Because plastic glue can “melt” this type of plastic, the bond is a lot stronger

I mean, I wasn’t planning on throwing the minis down a flight of stairs

6 minutes ago, Derrault said:

Can we continue using superglue, or is there some downside to that that I’m unaware of?

It's fine. I used it almost exclusively on hard plastic for many years, now I switch back and forth the way one chooses paints.

Just now, TauntaunScout said:

It's fine. I used it almost exclusively on hard plastic for many years, now I switch back and forth the way one chooses paints.

I’m mostly loathe to invest in a different agent when the superglue is serviceable.

Good to know the old standard will work.

Yeah I’m not saying it won’t, just one might be better. I switched for the droids and it seemed to get the parts to stick with less holding/dry time.

40 minutes ago, Derrault said:

I’m mostly loathe to invest in a different agent when the superglue is serviceable.

Good to know the old standard will work.

I also use superglue on my plastics and have never had any trouble. I actually prefer that it doesn't bond the plastic permanently like plastic glue, because if I make a mistake or glue an arm in the wrong position, I can snap the superglue arm back off easily, while said removal would be most dangerous to the health of the mini if it were plastic-glued.

Super glue is quite brittle; plastic cement is more of a weld... Definitely recommend using super glue on the feet though in case you want to rebase later.

7 hours ago, TalkPolite said:

Because plastic glue can “melt” this type of plastic, the bond is a lot stronger

Which is not necessarily a downside, superglue joints are brittle enough that sometimes they will snap cleanly if a model is dropped or smashed, which is a lot easier to repair compared to if it had been fused with polystyrene cement.

8 hours ago, Derrault said:

Can we continue using superglue, or is there some downside to that that I’m unaware of?

If this is your first time using the Plastic Glue and or Modeling in general; I’d suggest clipping pieces of the Battle Droid sprue and practice glueing the scrap pieces together before actually assembling your Droids. Here’s why:

Switching to plastic glue is a bit of a learning curve, or it was for me. I’ve always used super glue and now I only use super glue gel. When assembling my Bolt Action army I couldn’t get Super Glue to work that well and switch to plastic glue as suggested by Warlord Games for their models.

The plastic glue itself flows extremely well almost like water. I’m not sure if I used Testors or Tamiya. It’s hard to find in rural Texas, I found it at Hobby Lobby on occasion but mostly had to order it online. I found it easier to apply a small dab of glue on a piece of glass then either use a toothpick , exacto blade, or paper clip to apply the glue to the pieces I was bonding together. Applying the glue directly to the Model from the applicator/bottle usually ended in excessive glue on the model pieces.

Like others stated Plastic Glue is like a weld rather than the piece being just “stuck” together.

1 hour ago, Omegaclone said:

If this is your first time using the Plastic Glue and or Modeling in general; I’d suggest clipping pieces of the Battle Droid sprue and practice glueing the scrap pieces together before actually assembling your Droids. Here’s why:

Switching to plastic glue is a bit of a learning curve, or it was for me. I’ve always used super glue and now I only use super glue gel. When assembling my Bolt Action army I couldn’t get Super Glue to work that well and switch to plastic glue as suggested by Warlord Games for their models.

The plastic glue itself flows extremely well almost like water. I’m not sure if I used Testors or Tamiya. It’s hard to find in rural Texas, I found it at Hobby Lobby on occasion but mostly had to order it online. I found it easier to apply a small dab of glue on a piece of glass then either use a toothpick , exacto blade, or paper clip to apply the glue to the pieces I was bonding together. Applying the glue directly to the Model from the applicator/bottle usually ended in excessive glue on the model pieces.

Like others stated Plastic Glue is like a weld rather than the piece being just “stuck” together.

I’ve used it from jars and such (swabbing it on) from back in the day of making model aircraft carriers or battleships, and the messy factor definitely has a role in my dislike for it.

1 hour ago, Derrault said:

I’ve used it from jars and such (swabbing it on) from back in the day of making model aircraft carriers or battleships, and the messy factor definitely has a role in my dislike for it.

Try the precision applicators from Testors or Tamiya; very little mess, and far easier to deal with than super glue, especially on small pieces. If you're thinking about Droids, I definitely encourage you to go with plastic glue over super glue just because of how much overflow there will be. Plastic glue smells bad, but won't leave everything stuck to your hands; super glue will.

12 minutes ago, Alpha17 said:

Try the precision applicators from Testors or Tamiya; very little mess, and far easier to deal with than super glue, especially on small pieces. If you're thinking about Droids, I definitely encourage you to go with plastic glue over super glue just because of how much overflow there will be. Plastic glue smells bad, but won't leave everything stuck to your hands; super glue will.

Thanks! I’ll keep it in mind as an option.

3 hours ago, Derrault said:

Thanks! I’ll keep it in mind as an option.

The specific product is called Tamiya extra thin; it comes in this big square bottle, green cap. It’s got this brush on the inside of the lid, and the glue is such that it seeps into recesses.

So so you can dry fit, touch the applicator to the seem, and the glue wicks it’s way into it. Modelmasters (the glue they used on stream) is bantha poo doo.

Bah-humbug!

When I started the only miniatures prepping instructions I had came from an issue of Dragon magazine that I had to hide from my parents. You kids these days with your Youtube videos have it made.

18 hours ago, Derrault said:

Can we continue using superglue, or is there some downside to that that I’m unaware of?

It is a matter of preference. Plastic glue does hold it together better because it melts it but it takes longer to set and leaves less room for error. I prefer plain old krazy glue because for playing purposes and smart storage/transport, it works just as good for me. painting and such also help to hold it together.

I think that proper use of the tools and materials should be it's own video with examples of what can happen if you mess up. That would need some work with special effects of pictures. THEN go into the video on how to do these.

51 minutes ago, TauntaunScout said:

Bah-humbug!

When I started the only miniatures prepping instructions I had came from an issue of Dragon magazine that I had to hide from my parents. You kids these days with your Youtube videos have it made.

Same here. SO many sliced fingers... no dremils, no magnets and trying to convert the old lead and pewter minis... We have come a long way since then.

Quick and probably dumb question, but is the “plastic glue” the same glue that used to be in the Testors, orange (or maybe red - my memory is bad) and white metallic tubes?

If so I used to use that a looooooooong time ago, and I hated that stuff. If not, I have no idea.

Edit: As for FFG presentation, i’d Have to agree with the OP. Though I’m glad that FFG gave it a shot, it needs improvement.

1 minute ago, JediPartisan said:

Quick and probably dumb question, but is the “plastic glue” the same glue that used to be in the Testors, orange (or maybe red - my memory is bad) and white metallic tubes?

If so I used to use that a looooooooong time ago, and I hated that stuff. If not, I have no idea.

Yes. Avoid like the plague. I never had her good luck with those not rupturing or just getting you all over the place. Go to a decent local hobby shop or order tamiya extra thin plastic cement; hands down the best I've used in 20+ years of building plastic models

Why are people using liquidly superglue instead of gel? Gel is infinitely easier to use. Try this, best stuff EVER:

17 minutes ago, Thraug said:

Why are people using liquidly superglue instead of gel? Gel is infinitely easier to use. Try this, best stuff EVER:

Presumably you can get a thinner layer with a liquid than a gel.