Hey folks,

I'm thinking about trying a scratch build in the near future - specifically of the Viscount-class Star Defender to go across from the SSD when it comes out (I might try something simpler to start to get my feet wet). I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with scratch-building something of that size and compound-curve organic shape before, and had any kind tips or things to watch out for in the processes.

Or, maybe if anyone has any good resource on scratch-building, we can collate them all here?

Compound Organic Curves in Plasticard and such is, well... There's really only one way that I have had any success with...

Essentially, carve block shapes and curves out of Insulation foam, and then basically do a poor-mans vacuform (without the vac) by heating your plasticard with a hair dryer and letting it drape over your block shapes... It can then be trimmed and joined as required.

Is there a reason to NOT use a vacuum if one is available, or have you just not by dint of not having one available?

(I plan on building a vacuform table this weekend)

I did this a while ago, it was a real learning experience!

Then, of course, is the Master of Styrene! @MacrossVF1

That crusader is absolutely beautiful, and Macross's work is amazing.

Do you have any advice for smooth curving surfaces?

2 hours ago, ThatRobHuman said:

Is there a reason to NOT use a vacuum if one is available, or have you just not by dint of not having one available?

(I plan on building a vacuform table this weekend)

I’m a cheap b-stard, tgats all - mostly I only mention it to demonstrate concept - an actual vac won’t make the difference, this is more heat and drape mould...

Curves suuuuck most other ways.

Okay, last question: Will insulation foam stand up to multiple pulls out is this a lost master situation? If it is, I might need to carve it from layers of renshape or MDF.

Just now, ThatRobHuman said:

Okay, last question: Will insulation foam stand up to multiple pulls out is this a lost master situation? If it is, I might need to carve it from layers of renshape or MDF.

Pink close-bunch Insulation foam will survive quite a bit, as long as you don't apply direct heat to it. I know of people using it in actual vacuform machines as masters.

I'd trust large-ball foam a lot less.

It does have a limit though. I mean, applying direct heat is the way to cut and carve said foam as well.

39 minutes ago, Drasnighta said:

Pink close-bunch Insulation foam will survive quite a bit, as long as you don't apply direct heat to it. I know of people using it in actual vacuform machines as masters.

I'd trust large-ball foam a lot less.

It does have a limit though. I mean, applying direct heat is the way to cut and carve said foam as well.

Right on! I'll do my prototype master in XPS foam and see how a first pill comes out.

The blue and pink foam sheets are very durable, and sandable. T made a dragon head several years ago, for one of my son's Halloween costumes. Rough work with a saw, then start with the power sanders.

I actually just started making a SSD prototype. For my Star Wars D6 campaign.

https://starwars.fandom.com/wiki/Super_Star_Destroyer_prototype

Should be an educational experience.

Legit!

I'll have to give it whirl next time I stop by Home Depot or Lowes (I don't have any XPS at home). In the mean time, I found some good greebles to cast, so I've just poured a silicone mold around the masters.

For those looking in the future, I really like using Smooth-On's SmoothCast Onyx or SmoothCast 300 for parts - you can make a mold to pour the smoothcast into by using something like Smooth-On's MoldStar line (basically any Platinum-cured silicone - I like the Moldstar 25 the most - you don't want to use Tin-cured as the urethane resin and it don't get along too well).

Quick chime in from me. Curves are your worst enemy when using plasticard. I try to avoid them if I can, but if I have to I usually glue several pieces of plasticard together and carve away any excess until I have the desired shape.

Thanks for stopping by! Is there another medium that you'd recommend that would give a thin curved surface, then?

In thinking about it more, I'm not going to do the Viscount first go, but rather going to give a modified Protoss Carrier a go first.

Sculpting with green stuff or a similar two part epoxy on top of something that is the rough size and shape of what you are aiming for is probably a decent method. Not something I personally would do however because I'm absolutely crap sculpting pretty much anything.

Important note, when I said sandable, it is with the provision that you sand more slowly, the finer your grit of sandpaper. There is a friction point with the foam, where it starts to soften and melt on the surface, at which point it will gum up your sandpaper in no time.

Thick grit, 50 or so, I can get away with an electric hand sander for wood work, it's great for the rough work. 120 an up, and you can reach that friction point with just your hand. Test on a scrap piece as you switch grit.