12 minutes ago, Tokous said:

LMAO it was yourself! OMG get over yourself and sit down.

Try again, I dare you.

drops mic.

Fair enough. You got me.

So 4mm per turn on a double move means you can theoretically move one extra 24mm per game provided you do nothing but double move for six turns. I still don’t see it making any difference. If you think 4mm per turn is outside the “knocking around” factor then 🤷‍♂️ . I hope none of your opponents gives himself an unfair advantage by adding width to his bases with paint and primer.

All of the aftermarket bases purport to be the same diameter as Legion. The clear ones are not as tall.

As an aside, the Legion bases appear to be 27mm - at least according to Thingverse.

That's a very manly and adult thing to say. Certainly more than most would do!

6 hours ago, BucketheadBits said:

It's not weird to want to magnetize multiple bases for a mini, especially for tourney compliance. Also, you're assuming the bases won't be sold at a profit, which isn't true they'll be sold at a greater profit than minis. Think about it, you don't need a new sculpt, you don't need new molds, you need less QC... Additionally, if I want to put a not-official mini on the board FFG has two options; sell me a base and make some money from my heresy or not sell me a base and I'll figure out some sort of alternative (which isn't that hard for somebody who's been in the hobby a long time).

There's a reason every other mini company sells their standard bases, it's because it makes them money.

In my experience magnetizing the miniature to the base is very weird, typically I see bases magnetized for storage, but the miniature is glued to the base. And if the entire reason you need to magnetize the miniature is for tourney compliance, why doesn't the base that came with the miniature initially work? Or even the specialty bases?

There might be less overhead on bases than miniatures, however I contend there is significantly more markup on a miniature than a pack of bases, especially as a pack of bases has more plastic in it than the similarly priced single model packs. But if the company manufacturing the bases for FFG is also manufacturing bases and other plastics for board games, then FFG is losing the profit from the other product that could have been produced on that assembly line. Not to mention the standard, blank bases would compete with the stylized bases for sales.

As to your last point, FFG is NOT a miniatures company; it is a board game company that happens to sell miniatures. Which means their approach to miniature wargames is going to be different, such as by using specialized dice and measuring tools rather than the "normal" tape measure and d8s/d6s. As well, I can find no listings for bases from Steamforged Games which sells the miniatures game Guild Ball and I can find a few pure miniatures companies that have no listings for bases, as they focus their manufacturing on system agnostic miniatures, so your generalization breaks apart a bit.

1 hour ago, Caimheul1313 said:

In  my exp  erience magnetizing the miniature to the base is very  w  eir  d,     typically  I see bases magnetized for storage, but the miniature is glued to the   base  .  

I can’t really comment on what is typical, but I have magnetized my bases for everything and generally I have done it as you describe. But for my Speeder bikes I magnetized the clear posts as well. I was worried about them breaking or the miniature breaking during the inevitable drop from the table. The up side of this is that I could, if I wanted, move the bikes to different magnetized bases.

It may be unusual but it’s not unheard of. I’ve also glued all my objective crates etc. from my priority supplies etc. to bases, so maybe I’m unusual in that regard too. In any case I don’t have a lot of spare bases around.

Generally I have only thought about having extra bases for when I ruin one.

2 hours ago, BigBadAndy said:

So 4mm per turn on a double move means you can theoretically move one extra 24mm per game provided you do nothing but double move for six turns. I still don’t see it making any difference. If you think 4mm per turn is outside the “knocking around” factor then 🤷‍♂️ .

I explained this, In a game I played awhile ago I ended a game in a tie victory token wise but ended up winning. Only reason it was a tie was my closest unit's team leader was about 2mm more or less away from being in base contact with the objective...

So, that difference does matter a lot. I would of won if I had those couple mm. I won't even explain how it would help in several ways cause that's off topic. Now, what I may or may not of added. I was short from not using full movement and veering off course reacting to opposing units. Then in that same reply was saying movement is more important than many might realize, and to be mindful making movement. Cause I know there has been games ended where surviving unit's team leaders haven't been in base contact with one of the objectives.

I ignored it several times but that knocked units thing; It tends to happen from time to time depending on terrain and tight clusters of units, sure there is a high probability they won't put it exactly where it was perhaps putting it a couple mm further from prior position. I tend to disregard it, even though it could effect the games original outcome. That tiny increase shouldn't be compared to what I was talking about with bases since its not as consistent. There is something odd about someone constantly knocking over miniatures though, I would call someone on that.

51 minutes ago, Tokous said:

2 hours ago, BigBadAndy said:

So 4mm per turn on a double move means you can theoretically move one extra 24mm per game provided you do nothing but double move for six turns. I still don’t see it making any difference. If you think 4mm per turn is outside the “knocking around” factor then 🤷‍♂️ .

I explained   t  h  is, In a game I played awhile ago I ended a game in a tie victory token wise but ended up winning. Only reason it was a tie  was my closest unit's team leader was about 2mm more or l  ess  away from being in base contact with the objective..  .       

I didn’t understand this from your previous post. I had gotten the impression that you were being targeted by an enemy unit who could not reach you. But truthfully, I don’t think it matters.

As I said before, there will always be a “measurement moment” and when this important measurement occurs you of course will measure it. And as near as you can you will have to be precise. But I still feel that throughout the game there are many examples where the “tolerance” or “wiggle room” coming from completely honest errors in movement are going to exceed those 2mm being measured at the moment. This is unavoidable.

Despite your low opinion of my intellect, I’m a scientist. I tend to think of values associated with a standard error. So if a movement speed 1 movement of a trooper is 50mm (purely hypothetical number) I tend to think of it as 50 +/- some error value. I honestly couldn’t tell you that I could personally accomplish the physical task of putting a movement ruler into base contact with a miniature without moving it 1mm ten times in a row. Especially considering the many interactions between the terrain, the mini, the tool, my arms, the position of the other minis around it etc. I might estimate the “average” error of movement - including times when the mini slips, the movement tool slips, the operator accidentally takes both off the table because he forgot what he was doing, the mini falls over or even failure to get the tool exactly straight when you are trying to move in a straight line etc. at 2-3mm, but that’s just a guess. Sometimes you are more exact than this, occasionally you are less (like when moving over a barricade).

The only point I am trying to make is that, while certainly those 2mm mattered greatly during your one particular measurement, the idea that prior to that moment all of the movements that led to that point could not have been within error of 2mm closer or further from the objective is unrealistic.

With regards to the paint, that was facetious. But I’m trying to point out that we all accept the generally idea that there precision in these measurements is only possible within reasonable limits. The thickness of the paint is generally accepted as being within reasonable limits - although it’s worth pointing out that it is thick enough to mess up the vehicle base interaction with the movement ruler. The question is where is the line between what is acceptable and what is unacceptable. For me, an aftermarket base that is supposed to be the same diameter as an FFG base (whether we measure to confirm it or not) is fine.

21 hours ago, BigBadAndy said:

I can’t really comment on what is typical, but I have magnetized my bases for everything and generally I have done it as you describe. But for my Speeder bikes I magnetized the clear posts as well. I was worried about them breaking or the miniature breaking during the inevitable drop from the table. The up side of this is that I could, if I wanted, move the bikes to different magnetized bases.

It may be unusual but it’s not unheard of. I’ve also glued all my objective crates etc. from my priority supplies etc. to bases, so maybe I’m unusual in that regard too. In any case I don’t have a lot of spare bases around.

Generally I have only thought about having extra bases for when I ruin one.

I haven’t glued my speeder bikes to their posts, and I’m considering magentizing the bases. I played GW games for decades, and have plenty of experience with clear plastic posts breaking during transport. It is a pain to repair, and a real annoyance if it happens right before you start a tournament.

i probably wouldn’t magnetize the vases of land-based miniatures, but I HAVE had plastic bases warp in heat (I’m in California, and have traveled to tournaments in other hot states like AZ and TX). Those bases had to be replaced. That reason alone makes me interested in packs of extra bases.

If you leave your bases maroon/grey, then this may not be an ideal suggestion and while not "official", there are files out there on thingiverse for 3D printed bases.

If you paint your bases, this is an easy and potentially FREE way to get extra bases. Check with your local public library. Many of them now offer free 3D printing services. I've had some printed up and they match the official bases exactly.

58 minutes ago, FSD said:

If you leave your bases maroon/grey, then this may not be an ideal suggestion and while not "official", there are files out there on thingiverse for 3D printed bases.

If you paint your bases, this is an easy and potentially FREE way to get extra bases. Check with your local public library. Many of them now offer free 3D printing services. I've had some printed up and they match the official bases exactly.

This is what I do. I have a 3D printer. They're not super cheap, but they're also not super expensive and they pay for themselves over time in terms of "hey, I just saved $X by not having to buy bases I totally need". You can also get pretty nice terrain this way. Just search for "Tatooine" on Thingiverse.

Scenic Legion bases, large and small iirc, were in my LGS at least as of today.

8 hours ago, TauntaunScout said:

Scenic Legion bases, large and small iirc, were in my LGS at least as of today.

Do you mean the premium bases with the interior space station patterns or something else?

10 hours ago, BigBadAndy said:

Do you mean the premium bases with the interior space station patterns or something else?

Yes. There was some anguish about them not being out yet on this forum.