On Saturday, January 12, 2019 at 7:26 AM, TauntaunScout said:

.... that thicker carpenter's type of PVA glue laying around, but I don't make a point to keep it on hand. I like that Tacky-Glue they sell at fabric stores for scenery. It's basically ultra-thick PVA which never fully dries, it sort of turns into a clear jelly.....

Yellow carpenter's glue is mostly PVA with phenolic resin added. Tacky glue is actually pure PVA. Usual white glue, like Elmer's School Glue is actually PVA that's been watered down quite a bit.

For what it's worth, Mod Podge is PVA with varnish added.

And I would agree that one brand of CA is about as good as another and that liquid is better than gel. I would further add that accelerator sprays will weaken CA.

On 1/9/2019 at 10:13 AM, OccasionallyCorrect said:

Gorilla Glue gel for me!

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-Gram-Clear/dp/B00OAAUAX8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1547053996&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=gorilla+glue+gel&psc=1

me too!

I use a combination of the cheapest super glue money can buy and then average cost gel glue.

Never quite understood using super expensive stuff to glue feet to a base

CA is relatively cheap for what it is, and with it comes "less is more." many of us grew up using elmers where if your first try didn't work, add more and do it again.

I'm using the same bottle of CA that I've had for about four years now and it's not even 1/3 empty. It just doesn't need much to work.

In modeling, Elmers is really just good for water effects and/or basing because it dries clear when thin.

8 hours ago, crx3800 said:

....
In modeling, Elmers is really just good for water effects and/or basing because it dries clear when thin.

Actually Elmer's white glue is excellent for paper and cardstock. If you are building terrain features using cereal box card and similar, then white glue (PVA) is a great option.

I should have specified Plastic models. I don't really do any terrain or anything, so I dont really know anything about that.

13 hours ago, Albertese said:

Actually Elmer's white glue is excellent for paper and cardstock. If you are building terrain features using cereal box card and similar, then white glue (PVA) is a great option.

6 hours ago, crx3800 said:

I should have specified Plastic models. I don't really do any terrain or anything, so I dont really know anything about that.

I've also used it for gluing sand onto bases. Put down a layer of slightly watered down PVA glue, dip in sand, knock off excess sand, let dry, then coat with thin layer of more watered down PVA (close to a 1:1) to keep the sand on the base.

You can also make some cool looking ghillie suits/camo netting by dipping layers of gauze in watered down PVA glue then layering them on the miniature.

Edit: Speaking of, I just realized a "fix" for the darned barrel of the sniper that is aiming up... (Yes, I've dried dipping it in hot water and gently bending, that didn't work 😣 )

I like Tamiya's Liquid Orange Cement for the minis, it welds it!

CA mini and base, base is a different plastic.

I use litko's #33 for the acrylic parts

#33

18 hours ago, Caimheul1313 said:

I've also used it for gluing sand onto bases. Put down a layer of slightly watered down PVA glue, dip in sand, knock off excess sand, let dry, then coat with thin layer of more watered down PVA (close to a 1:1) to keep the sand on the base.

You can also make some cool looking ghillie suits/camo netting by dipping layers of gauze in watered down PVA glue then layering them on the miniature.

Edit: Speaking of, I just realized a "fix" for the darned barrel of the sniper that is aiming up... (Yes, I've dried dipping it in hot water and gently bending, that didn't work 😣 )

I used to use school glue for sand. After a while many of my minis started losing sand in my case quite often. Not enough to be noticed off the base itself, but enough to be noticed in the bottom of the bag. I've used CA instead or primed the model after putting some basing material on it. But then you have to paint the basing and it becomes this whole thing......

1 hour ago, crx3800 said:

I used to use school glue for sand. After a while many of my minis started losing sand in my case quite often. Not enough to be noticed off the base itself, but enough to be noticed in the bottom of the bag. I've used CA instead or primed the model after putting some basing material on it. But then you have to paint the basing and it becomes this whole thing......

That's why I do the second layer of very watered down white glue overtop. When it dries it seals the sand in place, then the primer helps even more.

I have never used straight sand on the basing anyway. I personally don't like how it looks to have unpainted sand on a painted model, it's very obvious the sand is at the wrong scale/too bright.

5 hours ago, crx3800 said:

I used to use school glue for sand. After a while many of my minis started losing sand in my case quite often. Not enough to be noticed off the base itself, but enough to be noticed in the bottom of the bag. I've used CA instead or primed the model after putting some basing material on it. But then you have to paint the basing and it becomes this whole thing......

I always paint sand once it's applied so I haven't had this problem.

Same here, glue sand with PVA glue then paint.

Zap a Gap

On 1/9/2019 at 9:43 AM, Xiervak said:

THIS!

I have some high end CA for word working and finishing. Used Zapagap for RC models in the past and various epoxies and polyesters for molding and finishing. I have all the gorilla glues, both urethane and CA gel. The best darn thing to use for these minis is that generic loctite CA gel you get at the supermarket. It simply gets to job done and the gel gives the control needed to not get it all over the place.

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