Push Fit Models and avoiding gaps
I'm going to try this on my second core set.
@Sorastro what do you think of this for legion models?
Push Fit Models and avoiding gaps
I'm going to try this on my second core set.
@Sorastro what do you think of this for legion models?
1 hour ago, Zrob314 said:Push Fit Models and avoiding gaps
I'm going to try this on my second core set.
@Sorastro what do you think of this for legion models?
Hey Zromb! Sure - I've occasionally trimmed back a peg or two if I'm struggling to get a tight fit
1 hour ago, Sorastro said:Hey Zromb! Sure - I've occasionally trimmed back a peg or two if I'm struggling to get a tight fit
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I'm curious though if iy would solve the more serious gap issues like those you've addressed in your earlier videos on the storm troopers and the rebel troopers. I've been using the matte varnish fill trick, but I'm now wondering if glue is the problem creating the gap.
I think poorly designed models are what's creating the gaps. Most of the stormies are fine, but several of the rebels (I'm looking at you Duros guy) just don't fit properly, even if you take the entire peg off. And the gaps on Luke's arms are terrible. Nothing a bit of green stuff can't handle, but it's not a peg issue.
The Vallejo Plastic Putty is another good "paintable" solution for seams between bits. I've even used it for painting in extra details like scales on lizards/dinos or trim on clothing, etc.
On 7/14/2018 at 7:14 AM, brownboot said:The Vallejo Plastic Putty is another good "paintable" solution for seams between bits. I've even used it for painting in extra details like scales on lizards/dinos or trim on clothing, etc.
Brownboot, do you thin the plastic putty with water to fill gaps? Can you describe a few simple step(s) on how you use it?
It'd depend on the size of the gap... It's not unlike traditional acrylic medium, the really thick body stuff.
Very generally I'd do something like:
- Paint some straight putty into the gap.
- Apply more layers with increasingly more water to putty while everything is still wet.
- Use a very soft brush and just water to smooth everything out.
For something where you really want smooth seams on a big flat plate (looking at you AT-ST) I'd go with brown stuff so you can sand it.
I like to use automotive filler putty (i.e. Bondo) for filling and smoothing gaps. It dries hard, is sandable, and takes paint very well. Just be sure to use it in a well-ventilate area.
Seconding Brownboot here; I use Vallejo putty for most of my gap-filling needs. As he mentioned, it can also be used to add some extra detailing as well. I am new to converting, but I have been using it to add some extra details to the minis, and it has worked reasonably well for that purpose.
That said, I don't really know what I am doing and I have no other materials to compare it to, so maybe it is better to listen to more knowledgeable folks on this topic...
Haven't have to fill any gaps yet, yes on initial test fitting there are huge gaps, but what I do is clean the flash, assemble them then put some boiling water into a mug and throw in the minis for a minute or two, once you take them out you can tighten any joints and when cooled of you'll have a perfect fit, you can now take them apart again and paint and glue as you see fit, haven't had any need to fill in any gaps. Any gaps I've had so far was the fault of the PVC material the minis are made of rather than the design of the minis and the hot water trick fixed them all.