What is up?! I know I'm late to the Armada party, being mid 2018 and all, but hey, I'm here now. I'm going to give you a quick rundown of where I am skill wise, a bit of what I've done, and then ask a LOT of questions.

I'm a novice in every sense of the word. I avoided painting my entire life for a variety of reasons, but when a friend suggested we do this, I was excited to play. Then I started looking at all the things, and realized the mini's we're unpainted. What an opportunity, right? Went to the local store, got a Wargamer set (dry brush, regiment, and insane detail), some black primer, and a handful of Reaper paints. I planned on playing Imperial, and my buddy has the core set, but I've got fighters so lets go!

This should make a lot of you old timers smile... not knowing much, I used paper clips and painters tape to hold my squadrons onto something so I could prime them. I'll get some better photos of some of the final products, but you'll have to deal with phone uploads for now.

I struggled with the brushes on the first pass, went with an old standby of toothpicks, was able to get most of the lines I wanted.

Fast forward a weekend, and I've picked up Rouges and Villains, some more paint (like black... who'd have thought) and tried to touch the toothpick squadrons up as well as. Tried to use the brushes more, got better results (I can be a fast learner), graduated from paperclips to q-tips, things like that.

Then I saw this dude Ica (rule37.net) and what he did with some X-Wings (I bought the core set AFTER the expansions, I can explain that later), and I thought why not, if he can do it, I can do it. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA. While I'm not exactly close (in my own esteem), I think I did well, all things considered. I'm excited to try again (have some questions around this) when I get some of the filthy rebel squadron expansions. Also showing a phantom squadron I repainted with the brush after I got some other inspiration. Like I said above, I'll work on getting better photos, but these will give you an idea.

Alright, now to my questions. I still want to get to Ica's level (link below if you don't know who I'm referring to), but I don't know what I don't know. Aside from practice, what tools do I need? I just got a poor mans version of a magnifying glass (clamps and a $1 plastic thingy), and I know I need at least 1 better detailing brush, where do I start, what one(s) do I get, any advice?

http://www.rule37.net/2015/04/armada-tutorial-painting-red-squadron-x.html

Other questions. I saw some damage mods to some xwing miniatures, was thinking about scarring up some of the bigger models, but I haven't seen too many people do that here. Is that frowned upon for some reason? Not trying to really destroy them, just talking about maybe dragging a sharp (hot) point across the surface in a few spots to mimic near miss burns and the like.

I think I've got a bit of talent after these first 2 attempts but I need some (a lot) more time painting. If you have ideas, tools suggestions, things I should read, or anything to add, I'm all ears.

I have a lot more questions and a lot more forum posts to read before I ask them, but its 2am and I need to get up in a few hours.

Cheers gents!

For a brush go for a size 0 or a size 1 sable brush. Good for general use and with a point on it fine enough for almost any detail. I find using tiny brushes like size 0000 is self defeating. The point on the tiny brushes is just the same size as the point on a size 1 brush but they hold hardly any paint so it can quickly dry on the brush hampering your detail efforts.

If you end up doing large ships or want something for undercoating then a size 3 is recommended.

Reaper paints are nice, I use a few along with Citadels and Vallejo. Get hold of some of the Games Workshop Nuln Oil wash.

Here are some quick steps to do a TIE fighter or similar.

• Basecoat the entire model light grey or light blue-grey.
• Paint the whole cockpit window a darker grey.
• Nuln Oil wash the entire model. Put enough on, let it flow into the recesses.
• Paint the solar panels black leaving the spokes and edges grey. Might want to get a bit more black paint on the cockpit windows too depending how much wash you put on.
• Highlight other grey areas with the base coat again using a detail brush and only catching the raised areas. The original basecoat will be darker due to the wash so this highlight gets details to stand out. Also paint the spokes on the inside of each panel (my least favourite bit of painting TIE fighters).
• Add red engine glow. For the guns add some orange or bright green dots .

Damage can be done with a scalpel or craft knife. Dig or maybe drill a hole then start wiggling the knife in there to make irregular edges. Paint the area around brown or black with a little dry brushing to show blaster damage. Maybe a little red & yellow for internal fires etc. Adding a tiny bit of very fine sand into the hole with a little watered down PVA glue to seal it in makes good damage marks.

On those larger ships, as they're already painted, do they still need some primer or anything else to make them ready, or are they good to go and just paint over the top?

I do have the Nuln Oil, used with varying success. I'm still learning how to use it on light grays and only have it go in the cracks and not really smeared all over... I used it on 2 Imp shuttles and they look super weathered now, but this is the Empire we're talking about...we don't do that weathered rusty stuff. Something breaks, go get a new one. Right?

I don't have any of my TIE's up (yet), but when I did mine, I primed it black and then highlighted the outer struts (didn't try painting the inners until the core set, they look so so). I also went against the traditional TIE look. I mean that cup on the back was PRIME for some light blue propulsion looking "light". So my TIEs are all now SIE's... Another thing I did that I now want to fix, was put the red on the weapon endpoints. Should have been green, didn't catch it till recently, one of those >.< doh! moments, so I've got to update that.

For the damage, this is what I was thinking:

Scalpel route look as good, as easily? Not trying to challenge, looking to understand.

Another question, and I realize it doesn't really apply in the painting in my area but since I've got your attention let me just ask. My core Victory Star Destroyer base didn't click in really, and I ended up breaking it trying to get it to click in. I got a replasment from the mfg and when I went to assemble it, it also didn't seem to go together. It makes me think I'm trying to assemble it incorrectly... Or by some weird circumstance I had to back-to-back bad ones. This common?

4 hours ago, Recon00 said:

Another question, and I realize it doesn't really apply in the painting in my area but since I've got your attention let me just ask. My core Victory Star Destroyer base didn't click in really, and I ended up breaking it trying to get it to click in. I got a replasment from the mfg and when I went to assemble it, it also didn't seem to go together. It makes me think I'm trying to assemble it incorrectly... Or by some weird circumstance I had to back-to-back bad ones. This common?

Click in how? You mean the clear plastic stand doesn't sit properly on the base? If it doesn't go in at all , you may have it backwards (the FF symbol marks the front end of the base). If it doesn't sit right (i.e. wobbles), that's fairly common, as the cardboard that fills the space between the plastic of the base and the plastic of the stand can vary in width, and if that happens, not all the space is filled, resulting in a loose connection. Try sticking some folded paper in the front half of the base, between the plastic and the cardboard.

If the issue is up top, then I am not sure what is happening. Normally the key goes on the stand nicely. Sometimes it's tight and you have to wiggle it, but that is all. If the ship's plastic key comes out, no worries, since the base fits snugly into the hole left by the key on the model.

The notch at the bottom of the strut/stand that faces forward (it does face forward, right?). When I got to slide it forward to 'lock' the strut in so it can support the VSD, it doesn't budge. It seems to be the notch at the bottom isn't open enough, but, again, I could be wrong.

And of course I'm at work and can't find a picture of what I'm talking about... ASCII 'art' to the rescue
| \
| \
------------------------------------------------------
| | <-------- this notch
| -------
| |
------------------------------------------------

That is terrible, but thats supposed to be the notch at the bottom or the strut, facing the front of the base. It looks like it's almost a big enough gap to slide in, but it's not. Everything else I've put together (Corvett and Nebulon at least) have clicked right in and support the models fine.

Does it click loosely without the cardboard ship tile?

if so, then the board may just need some more compression, having loosened lightly, even if by ambient moisture.

i have one or two which are right, but all were workable in the end.

No, it doesn't click at all... like it's not getting down deep enough to connect. I broke the first one trying to get it to connect so I'm a little gun-shy about giving it some elbow grease. I mean worst case, I can glue it like the first one, just with the other side of the VSD face up.

Dras, I've seen you say it's about posture (elbows, wrists) when painting. Do you use a magnifier or clamps to hold the models when you paint? I want to get the Ica lines on those X-Wings, but Idk how much time/skill thats going to take.

5 hours ago, Recon00 said:

The notch at the bottom of the strut/stand that faces forward (it does face forward, right?). When I got to slide it forward to 'lock' the strut in so it can support the VSD, it doesn't budge. It seems to be the notch at the bottom isn't open enough, but, again, I could be wrong.

And of course I'm at work and can't find a picture of what I'm talking about... ASCII 'art' to the rescue
| \
| \
------------------------------------------------------
| | <-------- this notch
| -------
| |
------------------------------------------------

That is terrible, but thats supposed to be the notch at the bottom or the strut, facing the front of the base. It looks like it's almost a big enough gap to slide in, but it's not. Everything else I've put together (Corvett and Nebulon at least) have clicked right in and support the models fine.

That is very odd. Are you certain you are putting it in the right way? It is supposed to point forward, yes. So point it at the little FF symbol, push down firmly, and put it in. You said it doesn't even go in without the cardboard?

I'll double check when I get home, I'm fairly certain it's facing the correct direction.

Yet another question, is one varnish/gloss better than another (looking for gloss and the matte finishes actually)? I'm looking for something a little more on the inexpensive but still good side, if it exists. I'm going to go by the tabletop store in the next few days, and I know I'm already looking for a better brush, and maybe one of the rebel squadron sets. The Mrs' has me on a bit of a leash after buying over $100 worth of paint and supplies, when I don't know what I'm doing, so I'm trying to pinch the pennies where I can. I've read the names of several in probably a half dozen threads, but I can't remember which ones, and so I'm trying to get that info under here so I've got quick access to it.

5 hours ago, Recon00 said:

I'll double check when I get home, I'm fairly certain it's facing the correct direction.

Yet another question, is one varnish/gloss better than another (looking for gloss and the matte finishes actually)? I'm looking for something a little more on the inexpensive but still good side, if it exists. I'm going to go by the tabletop store in the next few days, and I know I'm already looking for a better brush, and maybe one of the rebel squadron sets. The Mrs' has me on a bit of a leash after buying over $100 worth of paint and supplies, when I don't know what I'm doing, so I'm trying to pinch the pennies where I can. I've read the names of several in probably a half dozen threads, but I can't remember which ones, and so I'm trying to get that info under here so I've got quick access to it.

Both the Vallejo varnishes (matt and gloss) are good as well as the citadel ones('ardcoat is gloss and lahmian medium is Matt) I have used both and have had good experiences, and won't break the bank.

Perfect, Thanks Atromix!

And Ghost n Dras, I pushed the fin down very firmly, the slowly forward and it clicked. Still scared I'm going to break it, but I got it to work, so cheers!

Eg, Lahmian Medium is not a varnish.

its medium.

as in, it is paint “without colour”.

varnishes are intended to be hard wearing... to protect paint underneath ... a layer of medium will be no more protection than another layer of paint...

Thst bring said, the ultimate matte (and anti shine) varnish is Testors Dullcote.

For super protection, you can cover something in gloss, then cover that (after drying) with dullcote to remove the gloss shine.

For my mattes, I use Munitorum Varnush spray from Citadel - it works well enough, even though it prophets to be satin-ish I just don’t see it.

15 hours ago, Recon00 said:

The notch at the bottom of the strut/stand that faces forward (it does face forward, right?). When I got to slide it forward to 'lock' the strut in so it can support the VSD, it doesn't budge. It seems to be the notch at the bottom isn't open enough, but, again, I could be wrong.

And of course I'm at work and can't find a picture of what I'm talking about... ASCII 'art' to the rescue
| \
| \
------------------------------------------------------
| | <-------- this notch
| -------
| |
------------------------------------------------

That is terrible, but thats supposed to be the notch at the bottom or the strut, facing the front of the base. It looks like it's almost a big enough gap to slide in, but it's not. Everything else I've put together (Corvett and Nebulon at least) have clicked right in and support the models fine.

I think I had this problem on one of my minis, for me it was a mould line on the top of the notch, barely visible but blocking anyway. I lightly sanded the 3 sides of the notch and got rid of it.

anyway your painting work is good , please continue!

To be fair Dras, I did say varnish/gloss. Both answers work, give me more info than I had before, so I appreciate both the suggestions and the distinctions between the two.

Probably going to hop by the hobby store tomorrow or over the weekend and pick up a nice new super point brush (read something with a fine tip) and some gloss and matte clear coats.

My buddy still has an unopened core set, so I'm hoping to crack that open this weekend, have him see how lowly his stock x wings are/look, and then the subsequent "hey, you wouldn't mind touching up my squadron's too, would ya?" Frankly I'm starting to jones a little for some more of these infuriating little things to put some paint on, but I've got a limited budget.

Did pick up a Nebulon B (for what I think is cheap), and after everything I've read in here, think I'm just going to put a base primer on there and then go to town with it, try some things out, see what I like, what I love, and what I need to work on. Still, I'm apprehensive about painting over what I think (and keep in mind this stuff is my first foray into any miniatures), are good looking ships in their own right.

Wanted to say a quick thanks again to all you who've commented, and to everyone who's put content up on this forum. I've got ideas on ideas, and I'm seeing what's possible.

MOAR questions!

Are there any "best times" or sites that stock SWA stuff on the cheap? I've got my fingers crossed there are, still living on the "broke college kid" mindset, long after college. I'm also hoping I'm not to late on some Y-wings and that whole squadron expansion. Saw them on eBay for $50 today, hoping I can luck into some in a retail environment.

How messy is Simple Green? Might go buy a big bottle and start over on some of the squadrons, haven't decided yet, so I wanted to ask how messy the stuff is.

Are there questions I should be asking? Any other tips/tricks that you sage artists have for a newb?

Squadrons are currently out world wide. The struggle is real to find them right now... however, they are awaiting to be printed along with arquitens. So make sure you keep an eye out on the upcoming page at the top. Filter by miniatures to limit the results. Once those bad boys hit shelves you better buy them quickly. Squadrons sell like hotcakes .

Also depending on your location there are a few sites that usually sell armada discounted.. I'd also check your local stores, sometimes they can order for you as well. Never hurts to shop around.

Also good job on the paint jobs. Especially the X-Wings. They are terrible molds to paint haha

Thanks man. These are the first things I've ever painted, so while I'm happyish with the way they turned out, I know the next time I mess with them (xwings in particular), they're going to look even better.

Alright, I haven't had a chance to update my existing paint jobs because I got the second (?) rebel expansion set (e-wings and the like) and have spent the weekend on that. I also picked up this brush... is it any good as far as longevity and quality? I used it on almost everything and I fear I may have exhausted the poor thing. Also, what is a "spotter"?

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Brushes/Mini-Kolinsablon-Spotter-Brush---Size-3/0/p/5273

So here are the finished YCX-100's and Lancer-class Pursuit Craft. I don't really know the canon, so my color's aren't "normal" per se. Another question, with wash's. Nuln Oil specifically. If I have a light gray, it mucks it up something awful. Am I using it wrong, do I need to water it down more? I like the contrast in the crevices, but I'm not sure it's worth darkening up and otherwise making messy, the raised panels. Thoughts/ideas around this, or why that is my exp? The far left and far right were Nuln'd after initial painting, the VCX mid right was Nuln'd first, so that could be part of my solution's. Lancer mid left didn't get a drop of oil.

Apologies again on them being phone pic's, it was nearly 2am and I' just finished up.

Next up are the z95's. I think they turned out pretty well. They were some of the last things painted, which led to the brush question above.

And here are the E-wings, I painted the line down the middle with a metalic silver/gray that is nearly indistinguishable from the other cockpit lining, which is a shame ans it was a bit of a pain. Looking at them now as I'm posting, I'm disappointed in myself that I didn't clean them up on their blasters under the wings. Live and learn I suppose.

It was a lot of time, and a labor of love, but they look solid. Here are some closer up's of my x-wings I did 2 weeks back with inferior tools... I'm going to try and clean them up sooner than later with this new brush.

Or maybe I just simply green'em.... decisions decisions.

I also repainted my first "big" model. I didn't have any 90%+ alcohol to get rid of the FFG paint job, so I just primed it black and painted over it. I think it came out pretty well, wasn't sure exactly what I wanted to do with it other than the arrow on the starboard side. Tried to put some window/lights on both sides, used some different paints... want to look into the wear/tear look (have a question to DWRR about how he did his AFMk2's)... I digress. Also, apologies again on the lighting, it was 2am and I just wanted to snap it before passing out.

Introducing the reborn Nebulon B frigate, Kyber Queen

@Atromix or anyone else with the experience, I have a quick question about Vallejo paints. I got a pot of ivory when I was at Hobby Lobby getting the brushes mentioned above. I tried a little bit of it, and it seemed really watery in it's own right without extra H2O from me. Is that normal, or is that a sign that it's old pain that's been on the shelf to long?

And yes, I shook it before I poured it onto the palette. Also, shout out to whoever linked that wet palette stuff a while back, the increase to the length of time a paint can sit is worth the time to set it up.

Vallejo tends to be a good bit thinner than something like Citadel paints.

If it was Ivory, then it was likely Vallejo Model Colour - which are pro old style “multi layer” paints.

They’re higher pigment than standard acrylics, being Hobby paints... but they’re mud range overall, so they can appearvwateru and translucent.

Vallejo Game Colour and Citadel are at the higher densities - with Citadel “Base” paint being the highest of all - generally the colour is so strong it only needs one coat in comparison, but can end up feeling thick, dry or even chalky.

So feeling watery is okay, but don’t jyst shake it... if you can, stick a small stainless steel ball bearing in there and REALLY shake it that way, as VMCs can sit on shelves and settle in time.

5 minutes ago, Drasnighta said:

So feeling watery is okay, but don’t jyst shake it... if you can, stick a small stainless steel ball bearing in there and REALLY shake it that way, as VMCs can sit on shelves and settle in time.

Took me a long time before I figured that trick out.

48 minutes ago, Drasnighta said:

small stainless steel ball bearing

Is there a size I should be looking for that you know offhand? I've got this one Vallejo and a batch of Reapers, they look to use the same sort of dropper bottle. 1-2mm I'm guessing, but is that heavy enough to actually make a big difference?

Should be fine.

In desperation in previous instances I’ve used discarded pieces of metal model base tag.