How to prepare 3D printed terrain for finishing?

By CaptainRocket, in Painting

I just got a set of lovely buildings from Imperial Terrain, and like many other 3D prints at this scale, the lines from the filaments are pretty visible, especially on the domes.

How are people smoothing them out?

I think sanding would not work well to be even or get in around some of the details.

I spray shapeway's white flexible grainy stuff with a few coats of gloss varnish and then prime them, that helps those, but I think these grooves are too deep for that.

Is there something else to paint or fill with?

Much thanks in advance!

Give it a once over with some sandpaper to knock the sharp edges off then I primer with duplicolor filler primer. Once it's to my liking I finish as usual

54 minutes ago, The captn said:

Give it a once over with some sandpaper to knock the sharp edges off then I primer with duplicolor filler primer. Once it's to my liking I finish as usual

Thanks! I had no idea such a thing existed. I'll try it out! ?

Just now, CaptainRocket said:

Thanks! I had no idea such a thing existed. I'll try it out! ?

Not a problem. I just got a 3d printer so I could do lots of terrian stuff. The few things I've bought and finished that's what I've done.

The domes are the worst. I tried sanding and the plastic doesn't sand easy or quick. One could certainly put the energy into it though. I used automotive primer as IT suggests, followed up with sand textured spray paint. I don't see the print lines, not even on the domes, and the texture is perfect for the models.

If you like I recommend a watered down wall filler or joint compound. It fills in the gaps and gives a concrete or cement look when dried. It can be sanded and painted with any type paint.

I use a medium rubber polishing wheel in a rotary tool to knock down the ridges. Don't know if this would be possible for everyone, though. I'm a dental technician by day and therefore have access to more fancier kit than most people seem to.

And skill set. If a normal person went at it with a dremel they'd probably do more damage than good. A filler primer seems to get the job done well enough. Those domes are tough though.

I thought I remember hearing something about using a rag with acetone to wipe down the prints. It lightly meets the surface...?

Don't ruin your prints because of me though; it's just something I vaguely think I remember hearing or reading--do your research!

Quick update...

The @The captn's gap filling auto primer has worked wonders!

I sanded with a 100 grit sponge, then sprayed a coat. Repeated a sanding, and another coat, then sanded again. Any area I paid attention to the print lines are gone. A quick spray with a sand texture on top of this and it's basically perfect!

I haven't painted any additional details, but just this makes them look fantastic. I'll put up piccy's later...

9 hours ago, CaptainRocket said:

Quick update...

The @The captn's gap filling auto primer has worked wonders!

I sanded with a 100 grit sponge, then sprayed a coat. Repeated a sanding, and another coat, then sanded again. Any area I paid attention to the print lines are gone. A quick spray with a sand texture on top of this and it's basically perfect!

I haven't painted any additional details, but just this makes them look fantastic. I'll put up piccy's later...

Thanks man im glad it worked out. Ive used probably 3 or 4 cans here lately on stuff ive printed.

Model before any finishing.

xBuSFHP.jpg

After sanding and spraying one coat of filler.

8kduSGE.jpg

After sanding again and spraying sand texture paint.

95jUXoP.jpg

@OlaphOfTheNorth

Vapor bath: https://makezine.com/2014/09/24/smoothing-out-your-3d-prints-with-acetone-vapor/

I'd recommend this more to those 3d printing on their own than to anyone who bought pieces through shapeways or wherever, it's important to be able to test a couple times to get this to work right. 

It's also important to point out that the acetone technique only works specifically on ABS plastic. I can't conveniently find on Imperial Terrain's Web site what kind of plastic they use for the physical models they sell, but I presume it's PLA because ABS is more difficult to print with and there's no benefit to them using it.

You can certainly ask them, but this most likely doesn't apply here.

Edited by Turan
On 8/10/2018 at 4:43 AM, Turan said:

It's also important to point out that the acetone technique only works specifically on ABS plastic. I can't conveniently find on Imperial Terrain's Web site what kind of plastic they use for the physical models they sell, but I presume it's PLA because ABS is more difficult to print with and there's no benefit to them using it.

You can certainly ask them, but this most likely doesn't apply here.

Yeah, you can do the same on PLA, but you need pretty toxic and carcinogenic chemicals to do so (like DCM). Better to sand/prime/sand/repeat until satisfied.