Using a basic Dremel 7700 with the engraving tip, my idea was to try to make faux 2.0 templates by simply hollowing out a dimple at the ends (and, for the 1-straight, sides) and painting it with a Sharpie paint-pen. They wouldn't have lines, but the lines aren't really all that important anyway. They'll make adjudicating collisions a bit easier, but if you've got enough practice at that, it's not hard to do without lines.

I am not good at projects like these, and my non-handiness has always been compounded by the fact that I'm too lazy to really prepare.

Results were mixed. I used my least favorite template set to practice on. I'd say about half of them are pretty good, in terms of where the dimple is, and another 40% are close enough for casual play. The other 10% are off by more than a millimeter ... so, noticeably.

I do think this is doable, by people with steadier hands, more experience, more patience, and better tools. I'd recommend a more precise bit than the 7700 engraving tip, and I'd recommend a vise.

I haven't decided if I'm going to try again with my beloved custom Litko sets. I'd hate to screw them up, but on the other hand ... if they're useless for 2.0, then what's the loss? At the very least I'm going to wait and see if someone offers a service to do something similar.

I think applied perspective is offering this as a service, but I've lost the link.

It might only be for their templates, though?

40 minutes ago, Brunas said:

I think applied perspective is offering this as a service, but I've lost the link.

It might only be for their templates, though?

http://www.appliedperspective.com/acrylic/product/x-wing-1st-edition-re-engraving-service/

Seems to only be for their templates, yeah. I really like that they give an option to have the engraving done on either side, so you can have one side with the speed and bearing, and the other with the lines so everything is as clear as possible.

Make a template to hold your template and use a router with a tiny bit inside said template. The straights should be ridiculously easy.

I have just about everything I'd need to do mine, except time. I'm debating whether I should start with my awesome white, gold, and black Cog o two ones or the bright orange ones I have in a bag

I'll keep pushing for somebody to offer Second Edition 1 straight acrylics as prize support or promotion. Seems like the only one I'd really need. Could sell them for a couple bucks, mail them in standard envelopes. Good way for a podcast to make a few bucks and get their logo shown around.

3 minutes ago, gamblertuba said:

I'll keep pushing for somebody to offer Second Edition 1 straight acrylics as prize support or promotion. Seems like the only one I'd really need.

Why would the 1-straight be the only one you need? I don't think the "gap between nubs has wiggle-room" is going to be legal in competition any longer. I think increasing precision is the reason for the lines. (Also, keep in mind that Tallon Rolls, like Barrel Rolls, are also likely to need to line up.)

1 minute ago, gamblertuba said:

I'll keep pushing for somebody to offer Second Edition 1 straight acrylics as prize support or promotion. Seems like the only one I'd really need. Could sell them for a couple bucks, mail them in standard envelopes. Good way for a podcast to make a few bucks and get their logo shown around.

For a standard barrel roll, yes the only template you need is the 1 straight. However; if you plan on flying a cloaking ship (and decloaking hasn't changed) then you will need the 2 straight as well. If Echo still has his ability then you will likely need 2 banks also. If they still have the StarViper Mk II that adds the 1 banks to the required list. And of course if you want to fly any ships that have talon rolls then you will need the appropriate turn maneuvers for those as well.

So for a generally complete ship collection you'll only need an updated 1 straight, 1 bank, 2 straight, 2 bank, 2 turn, and 3 turn.

I'm also debating what to do with mine.

I only have one set, but it's a custom design I made a year or so ago. They were kind of cheaply made though and have gotten some wear and tear already. It could give me an excuse to update my design and get them made higher quality this time.

4 minutes ago, Jeff Wilder said:

Why would the 1-straight be the only one you need? I don't think the "gap between nubs has wiggle-room" is going to be legal in competition any longer. I think increasing precision is the reason for the lines. (Also, keep in mind that Tallon Rolls, like Barrel Rolls, are also likely to need to line up.)

I really hope this is true, but looking at the things we've seen so far this won't be possible. The worlds template center lines this year are far off center enough that you can't even get it to be centered on the ship, much less use it to eliminate wiggle room

Just now, Brunas said:

I really hope this is true, but looking at the things we've seen so far this won't be possible. The worlds template center lines this year are far off center enough that you can't even get it to be centered on the ship, much less use it to eliminate wiggle room

Are you serious? Oh, man, I don't know whether to find that hilarious or horrifying. "Horrifarious"?

Just now, Jeff Wilder said:

Are you serious? Oh, man, I don't know whether to find that hilarious or horrifying. "Horrifarious"?

Hilarifying.

Whenever I start thinking about how to modify my templates or make new ones for 2.0 I remember they Curled Paw is doing a preorder for their 2.0 templates for $15+s/h . Even normally they’re only $20+s/h. So I don’t know about you guys, but for me it would take less time/effort to just work overtime for a half hour or an hour and then use the extra money to buy brand new templates than to try to modify/make my own.

6 minutes ago, Jeff Wilder said:

Are you serious? Oh, man, I don't know whether to find that hilarious or horrifying. "Horrifarious"?

Yeah, sadly. I remember the 3 turn being h ilarifyingly off, other templates in the set seemed to be better, but not perfect.

The Dremel idea is tempting though. Should be fairly easy to rig up a jig. (That's really fun to say) Just feed the templates through if the jig is tight enough it should work like a charm. I have three sets of 1.0 acrylics so would be willing to try anyway.

30 minutes ago, gamblertuba said:

Hilarifying.

Winner.

I'm also looking for a way to do this with my 1.0 stuff.

If anyone knows of a service near chicago, or a bunch of people from chicago want to mail all of our templates in one box to save on shipping back and forth, let me know.

I'll be using this as an excuse to get another set from Curled Paw in a different color.

I'm thinking about just using trim tape... Less risk involved in totally messing things up. I've got some, but I'll need to get something a little finer.

I would seriously consider having the backs of my R2D2 templates updated to 2.0 - is there anyone in Europe that does this?

Hm, what about just painting a small hash on both ends of the template, masking with tape? No dremmel needed, just need to make sure the paint sticks to the acrylic.

The worry about precision is unfounded. Unless the template is exactly the same thickness as a base plus cardboard, it'll all be just a matter of perspective to create yourself some wiggle room, by simply not looking at it perfectly straight down.

I admire them for trying, but from the get go, it seemed more problematic to me as it creates an extra expectation (and rules) of precision it can't quite deliver on.

Especially when (allegedly) their own templates aren't precise. Why insist on precision in this way if it's impossible to achieve?

I thought FFG said the move templates were staying the same with 2.0. Only difference is a line down the middle of each to help.

Honestly, I wouldn't bother doing anything special to your templates. Between variance in printing, the fact you'll have a couple mm of plastic between the two lines you're trying to match, and the fact you'll almost never be looking directly down over the template & base, using the new templates is probably no more or less accurate than just eyeballing it with the old ones.

3 hours ago, DR4CO said:

Honestly, I wouldn't bother doing anything special to your templates. Between variance in printing, the fact you'll have a couple mm of plastic between the two lines you're trying to match, and the fact you'll almost never be looking directly down over the template & base, using the new templates is probably no more or less accurate than just eyeballing it with the old ones.

That may or may not be true ... but it won't have anything to do with whether the lines are required for competition legality.