I heard Star Wars Legion is harder plastic and some types of glues won't work well. What's the best glue for these? FFG site says super glue, is that the brand? Can I use Gorilla Glue super glue, for example?

Call me Krazy but I've built hundreds of models and have always used Krazy glue from the dollar store. It dries strong and fast. There are probably better glues out there but I've always been happy with super cheap super glue.

I'm using Gorilla Super Glue gel and it works great.

Any super glue should work. Up to you if you prefer the really liquid stuff or the gel. I've been using the liquid stuff which has worked well, but have used Locktite's control gels with good success in the past. Main complication I've had there was switching from an old bottle which required a lot of pressure to get glue out to a new bottle where glue comes gushing out with little effort.

The minis are not polystyrene, which is the type of plastic that Plastic glue melts. Plastic glue may initially seem like it is working because the glue is innately slightly sticky, but it does not hold after drying. My FLGS's demo kit was assembled with plastic glue, but quickly fell apart during its first use.

I always used model glue/plastic cement style with 40k but I think imma gonna stick with Superglue for these guys.

Has anyone seen official recommended type from FFG?

Their text says superglue.

Also, they assembled the models with Superglue in the factory.

... I know because my Kans Speeder has a superglue fingerprint ...

It goes by many names, but what you want when we refer to actual “superglue” is Cyanoacrylate.

Generally there is a warning on the tube with that word ?

Does the fingerprint look human or Bothans?

1 minute ago, Nihm said:

Does the fingerprint look human or Bothans?

You tell me:

5 hours ago, Drasnighta said:

It goes by many names, but what you want when we refer to actual “superglue” is Cyanoacrylate.

Generally there is a warning on the tube with that word ?

Well, besides the irritation of the mucus membranes from the fumes (work in a well ventilated area at a minimum), it does harden on skin in seconds. I think that's worthy of a warning.

Citadel super glue for most plastics works fine just fine. Ive used gale force 9 and tons of other randoms before but i usually just use citadel.

gorilla super glue works as well, though i usually use this on stuff that needs to dry faster and a stronger bond.

gorilla gel super glue is thicker and will hold basically forever though i really only use this on stuff that needs that extra punch i.e. parts that i can't hold in place while other super glue needs to dry etc.

I've used Citadel in the past, which was fine until it dried out, and a random cheap one, which was awful from the very beginning. Currently I use Army Painter superglue and have been thoroughly impressed with it, great consistency and not prone to drying out at all, survived a whole summer without becoming any less liquid (could recently compare it to a fresh bottle, virtually no difference).

I use Zap-a-gap for all my minis. It is just super-glue in a small plastic bottle, which I prefer to the tubes some come in since those typically gush out when using it, even if I don't put any pressure on it. I have not had any issues with it in the past decade, whether gluing plastics or metals. Plus, I have only gone through four bottles in that decade, maybe five, gluing together minis for D&D.

4 hours ago, Drasnighta said:

You tell me:

Reported to ISB. They will take care of matters like this. lol

Wish I would have found this discussion a couple days ago. I just assumed the models would work with plastic glue. It was so fiddly. I ended up just switching to Locktight Super Glue Gel half way through. I like the strength of the models nice and sturdy. I just wish plastic glue would work on them.