If you see me reference "edging" that's simply the process of lining the raised areas of a model with a lighter color to bring out details. Also ALWAYS try out anything new on a test model first before committing to doing it to a whole army. Also, try to use the biggest brush you can get away with to make things go faster (that's part of what the test model is for, is finding out what you can get away with).
Opening Thoughts and Assembly:
The models are pretty nice. Actually, they're better than that. They're more than I expected from a company that's mostly just putting it's first toe in the waters for this type of miniatures game. The parts are well distributed and I always love to see a company make the drivers a mostly separate part from the vehicle because it makes painting and assembly that much quicker. FFG also seem pretty keenly aware of the limitations of their medium and a lot of the details that could easily have been lost are intentionally exaggerated. The definition is also quite fantastic making for models that take a wash really well. I was expecting a lot of "limp sword syndrome" which frequently happens with this kind of plastic, but even on some of the longer parts like the antennae or legs for the AT-RT or the forks for the speeder bikes were perfectly fine.
The Speeder bike assembly is a little odd in two areas. One giant asterisk that every NEEDS to know is that the stem for the flight stand is not a circle. It's closer to the stems used for X-Wing bases meaning the Speeder Bike will only attach to the base one way. Make sure the orientation is correct before gluing in place. My advice is the dry fit the speeder, then glue the base in place. If you'd like to do more painting from that point on, just pop the Speeder Bike off and keep going, otherwise, glue the speeder bike to the stem. The second point is the foot pedals. Their connection isn't the best. As you can see, I kept the pilots separate, so I dry fit the pilots when I placing the foot pedals in place to make sure when I finally attached the pilot that they had the maximum number of points of contact with the pedals (and also adding points of contact to the pedals as well).
The Struts for the AT-RT that attach the body to the legs are also a little janky as one is shorter than the other. Just make sure to dry fit these as well.
The troopers are all super easy. I literally can't imagine having trouble as the connection points are all pretty obvious and the poses are all split up into their own little baggies, so there's no danger in confusion there.
-Priming-
So, I did two stage priming and I would mostly recommend this as it's a **** of a time saver. For the AT-RT and Speeder Bikes, I started with a solid black. For all of the troopers, I started with a medium grey. For this initial coat, I just got as much of the base color in as many places and as evenly as possible. Then I did a pseudo zenithal priming using lighter colors (medium grey for the AT-RT, Brown for the Speeder Bikes and white for all of the troopers and pilots). You can probably some useful guides for the specifics of this technique, but it involves using short passes at a mostly downward angle to get better and more solid color at the high points and create a gradual fade effect on other parts of the model. It takes some practice and I definitely messed around with some test models first, but once I got a good patter going, I was able to knock out everything pretty fast. Note, the pilots are off their vehicles and the vehicle bases are separate, this is for ease of painting.
-Vehicles-
I did the AT-RT and Speeder bikes next. The first step was edging both of them, in this case a lighter brown and lighter grey. Note, I have magnetized the AT-RT's weapon. It was quite easy if you have the right size magnet as the slot and post are almost made for a magnet, but I just grabbed a few from a stack, so I couldn't tell you the exact size.
Next, I did what I would collectively call "detailing". This involves a lot of small stuff. For the speeders, the biggest part of this process was painting the undercarriage, the back flaps and the front forks along with the controls black and then edging all of that with a metallic color to give it a gunmetal look. I also painted the seat black, but edged that with grey because it looked plastic in the reference photos I found. Next I used field grey for the poncho things on the back of the speeder bikes with a lighter color for some edging. I also saw the little red dot on the control panel in all of the reference photo, so I did painted it dark red, then put a dot of lighter red in the middle. I also took a step that you really don't have to in order to add to the effect. I noticed it was common for Speeder Bikes to have a lot of paint chipping, so I took some metal and just did some really short and quick strokes on the leading edges. Finally I did a careful wash of Nuln Oil on the recessed areas of the Bikes (This is used on basically every model here).
For the AT-RT, it was a little simpler, I just added some points of interest, a little more of the metal chipping and painted the seat brown just for the **** of it.
For the Scout Troopers, it was super easy, just put some black on the white in strategic areas. edged the black in either grey (for the parts of the uniform) or metal (for the guns or handlebars of the bikes). Lastly, more Nuln Oil washes (it's going to be a patter, Nuln Oil is awesome).
As you can see, the rebel pilot had more different colors, but less overall coverage. Added the colors and put some edging on them, then, you guessed it, MOAR NULN OIL. Next, I painted the flesh, then highlighted the flesh and washed with Anggrax Earthshade (another amazing wash) and did some final touchups.
Then I just glued to the bases and added basing material.
-Stormtroopers-
For these guys, the black was one of the largest painting projects. I was actually able to get away with doing a lot of this with a remarkably large brush. I also realized that there was a black band above the brow of the Stormtrooper helmet, so when I was doing the lenses, I turned the troopers upside down, rested the brushes on this black band and just pushed the brush into the lens which made the process go a lot faster and kept me from having to switch brushes. As with the Scout Troopers, the edging for these black areas was grey for the uniform and metal for the weapons.
Then I just washed the recessed areas in Nuln Oil, popped some orange on the officer's shoulders pads and BAM!
-Rebel Troopers-
Started the same way that I started with the Stormtroopers i.e. with the black for the weapons and edging in metal. Then added the various other colors with their edgings (some bone edged in white and field grey edged with a lighter grey).
Then I washed in...dun dun dun...more Nuln Oil.
Then I started with the faces. I put down a basecoat of darker flesh.
And then highlighted it up with lighter colors...
And finally washed in Aggrax Earthshade in the same fashion that I did with the AT-RT pilot Then just did the basing and voila!
I assembled these models Saturday night, by Sunday evening, everything but the Rebel Troopers were done. If I had done more prep work beforehand (priming and test models), I could've easily done this whole process in a day. It's quick, it's easy, and it works. Hope to see some painted armies on the table 
Oh and if you're wondering about Luke and Vader, two of the store employees are having a painting competition with them, so I'm just doing everything else.
I hope you found this helpful!
