27 minutes ago, C3POFETT said:

I agree. I was not knocking anyone. Everything I have made I have honestly turned would be trash into terrain.

The pieces I made for the tables for my children's school are made from aluminum cans and bendy straws, painted to look like Scarrif fuel containers, Pop Tart boxes and foam board covered in wall filler to resemble Tattooine houses. An Endor bunker made from scratch cut from used Priority Mail boxes and painted with enamel paint to prevent warping. I made a city entrance from two turned over Ricotta containers with a foam board arch way in between them. I made a small shield generator from large plastic drinking cup lids from a gas station cut in half glued together and painted gray.

Nothing looks professionally made and the kids love it.

mu intent was to give people who aren't artistically inclined ideas for making a table with very little actual work.

My Thoughts are very simple.

We al make this possible.....

the Guy that likes to play a game......those wil mostly be unpainted....and know the rules very good.

The Guy that likes to hobby a game... those wil paint and go for the most painting workt on a model...make terrain they wil care less about the rules.

The Guy that will collecs a game and will buy it al and never opens a box........

And then you have the Guy that likes it al and wil do al those things in diffferend gradations......

And we will make it al possible that FFG keeps making cool stuff to buy for this game.

Thanks One

Been gaming for over 40 years, love to modify figures, hate to paint. I do paint tabletop - 3 colors and base. I just don't have the patience it takes to paint really well. I may do a few tournaments, so would prefer to paint my figures. I do like my uniquely painted figures.

I like playing with painted models, but don't mind playing against unpainted models.

4 hours ago, Bohemian73 said:

Been gaming for over 40 years, love to modify figures, hate to paint. I do paint tabletop - 3 colors and base. I just don't have the patience it takes to paint really well. I may do a few tournaments, so would prefer to paint my figures. I do like my uniquely painted figures.

I like playing with painted models, but don't mind playing against unpainted models.

25 years here and I hear what your saying. I painted my WHF High Elves about 20 years ago and did a good enough job that they still today look bright, however my Imperial Assault models are 99% grey! I just couldn't be stuffed....

Legion on the other hand has me motivated to dust off the old skills and as Dan Pena says "Just F'ing do it"

I have been painting minis for over 30 years and will deffinitley paint these. The first tournament i go to i'll see at the end of the day if i can swap and sell my army with somone that doesnt have the skill/time to paint. that way they wont have to chase me to get thier army back. and then i can work on the next batch hopefully improving each time.

I guess i need a sensible price per mini.

I think it was May 17 FFG Worlds were the Imperial Assault Final table had two people playing each and neither had anything painted. It was sad to watch. I think FFG should have 1^st place and a second 1st for people with painted figures.

3 minutes ago, Portage said:

I think it was May 17 FFG Worlds were the Imperial Assault Final table had two people playing each and neither had anything painted. It was sad to watch.

Yes it's very hard to watch and to follow as well. I'm not sure what you mean by 'Second 1st' place But a separate category for painted figures would be cool. And I think FFG officially supporting that would be awesome.

Seeing painted figures on tables would surely draw more eyes.

First of all, it’s not my place to say someone else should paint their minis. It’s time consuming, adds another barrier to playing, and takes some practice anyway.

That said, I think many people make it seem more difficult than it really is. The products available these days make it easier than ever to get a good tabletop quality quickly. Yes, it still takes some time, patience, and practice but it’s easier than it’s made out to be.

the trick, the difference - is to have it planned out BEFORE you put brush to mini. You should already have the materials, the techniques, and colors picked out. The process of actually painting an army is a rather mechanical one if you’ve prepped correctly. Too many people dive in and it gets messy and frustrating for them as they look at a half painted army they aren’t even sure how to finish or what to do next.

Watch some painting tutorials, do a few test models, and write out the steps based on what you consider appropriate for your skill level and preferred time investment. Like nearly all projects like home or car repair, knowing what you’re doing and HOW you’re going to do it before you start is key to a successful and efficient job.

Last thing - figuring out washes is key to almost any good looking tabletop quality mini. If there’s one thing I see new painters misuse it’s washes. So many just slap on the same wash, undiluted, over a whole model -usually a dark brown or black wash. Properly diluting your washes and using targeted applications is absolutely critical to getting nice looking minis quickly without them looking too messy.

Heres an example of my list for painting some US infantry for bolt action. It’s a little shorthand, but you’ll get the point. It takes me about 20 minutes to fully paint one, despite all the steps, as each one rather quick and planned out. Yes, I make myself little notes becuase I know I’ll be tempted cut some corners as I batch paint but based on test models I know it’s important.

1. Gray primer, Zandri dust overcoat.

2. Leather brown base.

3.banshee brown line highlight on jacket, gaiters. 50/50 dilution.

4. Mid- brown wash on jacket and gaiters. 75/25 dilution on jacket, 50/50 on gaiters.

5. Banshee brown line highlight on gaiters only. Make sure to cut the line against boots.

6. Oxide ochre on webbing, 50/50 TWO CoATS! Don’t get lazy. Two coats.

7. Loren forest on helmet and any metal accessories, binocs, grenades, etc...

8. Leather brown on shirt and pants. Alternate: Venom wyrm.

9. Fur brown on rifle stock, boots, and straps. Be careful with the highlighted gaiters for the love of.

10. Combat fatigue highlight on Loren forest areas. 75/25, except 25/75on smooth helmet grading. No dilution on helmet netting.

11. Strong tone wash on leather brown areas, fur brown boots and straps. 50/50 dilution except straps which get none.

12. Military shader wash on green areas. 50/50 dilution on cloth/uniform, NO dilution on helmets. Do the helmets first becuase otherwise you’ll just use the diluted stuff on helmets.

13. Light tone wash on fur brown rifle stock. 75/25 dilution at most.

14.soft tone wash on webbing, 50/50 dilution but only if you’re using the wash medium, if water go 75/25. Hit the shoulder straps twice.

14. Tanned flesh on skin and as a VERY fine highlight on rifle stock. Water the dang paint 50/50 and use a small brush. Use the small brush. You know what happens if you don’t.

15. Kobold skin highlight on skin. Light dilution only. Try not to get between fingers, but you will.

16. Flesh wash 50/50 on skin. Careful with the straps and sleeves. Use the small brush man, use it. The face, the face.

17. Becuase you probably used the big brush in step 14-16 becuase you’re an idiot and think this time will be different take Barbarian flesh and fix the face and hands you just screwed up.

18. Highlight the helmet straps with fur brown. Undiluted.

19. Paint metal areas black. Don’t forget the top of canteen! Don’t do buckles, we decided it’s not worth it. If you do, you’ll be tempted to go back and do the buckles on all of them. All of them. Think about it. Gun and canteen only.

20. Line highlight of ironbelcher on metal. Undiluted.

21. Finally, troll claws highlight on webbing and boots. Undiluted. Take your blessed time. Don’t get lazy on buttons and canteen.

19. Admiration.

20. Skeleton bone highlight on base, dry brush only. Use the dry brush. Yes, you may have to stand up to get it. Dont use your regiment brush. Don’t. Do. It.

21. Wish a brush, not the bottle, Pva glue for static grass.

22. Apply static grass.

23. Use soft tone on any areas too bright on base. May be none if you used the actual dry brush.

24. Hit the base sides with leather brown again. No dilution. Put it on thick.

25. Transfer time. Flags on right shoulders. Micro set, micro sol. Don’t do more than 3at once. Gloss varnish over top only after at least 2hours.

26. Matt spray varnish. Two thin coats.

27. Put them away before smallest child and/or beloved house pets get them.

By a second 1st place all I mean is that the tournament would run normal except the top placed painted Legion would get an additional something. The top painted army might come in 1st or 15th but they would still get something extra. Or maybe the top 5 painted Legions get a little extra. This might give some players more intensive to paint for tournament play or barrow a set that is painted.

2 minutes ago, Portage said:

By a second 1st place all I mean is that the tournament would run normal except the top placed painted Legion would get an additional something. The top painted army might come in 1st or 15th but they would still get something extra. Or maybe the top 5 painted Legions get a little extra. This might give some players more intensive to paint for tournament play or barrow a set that is painted.

What if I'm the best player and the best painter?

17 minutes ago, Undeadguy said:

What if I'm the best player and the best painter?

Then you win all the things as you rightly should, and become royalty of Legions.

Well we are talking FFG, maybe players who paint their armies get colour versions of the alt art cards and those that don't get B&W.

Or perhaps you just get a nice alt art for making the effort to paint your army.

5 hours ago, Portage said:

By a second 1st place all I mean is that the tournament would run normal except the top placed painted Legion would get an additional something. The top painted army might come in 1st or 15th but they would still get something extra. Or maybe the top 5 painted Legions get a little extra. This might give some players more intensive to paint for tournament play or barrow a set that is painted.

How about a nice sense of satisfaction at having a well painted army?

I live in a tiny one bedroom apartment I really don't have the space, time, energy, or skill to paint anything. If I play this game my models will be unpainted and you'll just have to deal.

41 minutes ago, FourDogsInaHorseSuit said:

I live in a tiny one bedroom apartment I really don't have the time, energy, or skill to paint anything. If I play this game my models will be unpainted and you'll just have to deal.

I love me some 1st world problems. #Blessed

I love painting, but I don’t always love miniature storage solutions. I have a couple foam insert cases that work wonderfully, but play RuneWars unpainted because I can just toss minis into a plain tackle box and be done. It makes for a super fast put-up and take-down system.

17 hours ago, Hawkman2000 said:

I love painting, but I don’t always love miniature storage solutions. I have a couple foam insert cases that work wonderfully, but play RuneWars unpainted because I can just toss minis into a plain tackle box and be done. It makes for a super fast put-up and take-down system.

Painted mini + varnish/lacquer + toilet paper + tackle box = cheap, safe, and effective storage.

1 hour ago, KalEl814 said:

Painted mini + varnish/lacquer + toilet paper + tackle box = cheap, safe, and effective storage.

And, just in case the store runs out...

On 2/24/2018 at 5:31 PM, Hawkman2000 said:

I love painting, but I don’t always love miniature storage solutions. I have a couple foam insert cases that work wonderfully, but play RuneWars unpainted because I can just toss minis into a plain tackle box and be done. It makes for a super fast put-up and take-down system.

That's a bad excuse for Rune Wars. ? It took me all of ten bucks and an hour to magnetize my 200 points of Latari, and once you can count on models to stay in their trays despite jostling, the interlocking trays make storage and transport so easy in even a shoebox. Saves on setup time vs the pile of infantry in the taclebox, too.

On 2/22/2018 at 8:48 PM, Derrault said:

How about a nice sense of satisfaction at having a well painted army?

I will paint my Legion just as I have painted my IA. But I was thinking how you motivate the person who does not want to paint their Legion. If painting is not required for tournament play what incentive would it take for a non-painting person to add some color to their Legion.

3 hours ago, Portage said:

I will paint my Legion just as I have painted my IA. But I was thinking how you motivate the person who does not want to paint their Legion. If painting is not required for tournament play what incentive would it take for a non-painting person to add some color to their Legion.

Grey plastic looks like garbage. Frequently, just showing someone how easy it can be is enough. Nobody wants to play unpainted, it's more of a lack of desire/time/etc. that keeps them from picking up the brush. I have seen exactly 0 players in my gaming time that have said "man, that grey plastic looks sweet!".

This is actually part of the reason that I'm putting together a tutorial. We have a number of locals that are getting into the game, but haven't undertaken a painting project like this before.

11 hours ago, Portage said:

I will paint my Legion just as I have painted my IA. But I was thinking how you motivate the person who does not want to paint their Legion. If painting is not required for tournament play what incentive would it take for a non-painting person to add some color to their Legion.

Maybe it’s not important to incentivize something so subjective as beauty. Nor for that matter would throwing swag at the people already doing such an activity (and thus more skilled and certain to win if it’s a limited commodity) going to help motivate those disinclined to do the same.

Tacking on a requirement for painted figures would only constitute one more barrier to entry, driving away potential players and shrinking the community.

Hosting painting sessions for the uninitiated is a better means of luring new blood.

I like the look of painted models on the table. I paint my own, and refuse to play a model myself if I haven't painted it, even though I have but average skill and don't have the patience for a highly detailed, blended, optimally highlighted paint job.

But I'm a player first, and realize that many players don't want their hobby to be a craft project.

It bothers me not a whit if you don't paint your models, as long as you're having fun!

I would say the top reason is cost. Those paints aren't cheap and a lot of people can barely afford the game to begin with. Of course, time, skill and desire all play a factor into it.

Bottom line is

'People will play unpainted, because they don't have to paint'

I would rather they play unpainted than don't play and leave me with no new people to play against and meet and have tournament days out.