So, I decided to start painting some of my ships. I don't have a whole lot of experience, so I picked a sip I didn't mind the potential for ruining it, I settled on the Kihraxz. Because I wanted something to compare it too, I also busted out a Titanium die cast model from Battlestar Galactica. Here is where I started. Apologies for the Yellow tinge to the photos. I need to adjust my lightbox to get whiter pictures. It also does not help that my phone's camera lens is partially broken.

Once coat of department store black paint/primer later, here we are:

First coat of "teal" on the Kihraxz only (I forgot to photograph the Viper, and don't want to set up my lightbox again.)

And here is the current state.

So now I ask the community for advice. Where do I go from here? I have a color scheme in mine for the wings, but the paint is going on less smoothly than I imagined. To answer the questions I assume are coming:

• Yes, I did thin my paints (probably too much so on the first coat of teal.)
• I am using Decoart brand paints I found at the department store.
• I kinda of slathered the paint on using a flat brush, and then spread the paint around as much as possible before going back for more.

Hmm... well, if you've thinned your paints too much it's going to be harder to work with. Having said that, you'll just have to do multiple coats until you get the color to where you want it.

When thinning your paints, typically you don't want it to be watery. Try for the consistency of milk.

I will say that what you have going on there, to me at least, looks very nice! Scum ships tend to be very forgiving with paints. I bet you could make those cockpit windscreens purple or red, add some ace stripes to the wings, and slather the whole thing in Nuln Oil and it would look really cool!

For what it's worth, I think that the teal looks pretty good. It might not have been what you were going for but I like the effect.

It does have a nice oxidized copper look to it.

Thanks for the kind words. I am not quite as disheartened as I was when I first started.

I've only thinned the paints as I use them. I get the feeling I've given you guys the impression I thinned the whole bottle(s) and not the palate currently in use.

Next step on the Kihraxz will be a yellow stripe separating the wings and body. I will start with the paints I have, but I suspect I will need to buy something of better quality tongwt a good clear yellow on black. If I can do it well, then I will attempt to follow up with the wings painted black and red checkerboard.

This pattern was for an elite pilot squadron in a Star Wars RPG I played years back. Nothing in proper lore, legends or otherwise, just a squadron made up by the GM of the game.

There will probably be no updates until Monday, but I look forward to hearing your feedback.

I haven't had the courage to try a checkerboard yet. May the force be with you.

And the current state.

I'm not super happy with it, but I seem to have misplaced all but one of my brushes, so this will have to do for the first coat of yellow.

Now that I am done with the concept, how do I make this model pop?

Washes. Highlights. Drybrushing.

With scum ships, you don't necessarily need to make it "pop" per-say, and I would leave it as is.

If you have to add some more color, try changing the cockpit. Once you're done coloring that, use some gloss varnish and it looks amazing.

-DD

The plan going forward:

• Touch-up the checkerboard. It needs more TLC than I gave it.
• Perhaps touch up the yellow. It could be great, but now it looks barely passable.
• Paint the underside with some more detail, perhaps? I haven't quite decided on what and how. (Pardon for lack of pictures, but the underside is the same color as the main body.)
• Paint the cockpit something high gloss. I haven't decided on what color. I was thinking maybe metallic gold?
• Gloss varnish the whole thing.

Can you tell I am my own worst critic?

I'm having a hard time coming to terms with the combination of the oxidized copper and the checkerboard. They seem to be in conflict, to my eye. Like one part is really aged and beat to H and the other is by comparison new-ish looking. Does that make sense? Maybe its the contrast between the red and the blue-green that isn't sitting well with me.

I'm not disparaging your work; you've done two things I haven't been able to do successfully, so kudos to you.

Well, the oxidized copper tone was accidental, and now I'm rolling with it. The original intent was for a darker version of the teal seen on this Kimogila by @ZealuxMyr

On 1/30/2018 at 6:26 AM, ZealuxMyr said:

Dalan Oberos M12-L Kimogila Figther

As for my Kihraxz, I need to clean up the lines on the checkerboard, and then I think weathering it will help bring the two conflicting tones into harmony.

@Force Majeure I am open to suggestions. Don't feel you are being overly critical, as I probably won't take it the wrong way. I understand I am a novice, and expect those with more experience to tell me where I've gone wrong.

If you have any of that oxidized copper left, maybe doing a light wash over the checkerboard (after tightening up the squares) would help unify it.

Aside from that, if it were mine, I would do something to the cockpit frame to give it some contrast with the glass. A neutral color like a metallic often looks good such as bronze, or steel.

The Kimogila started with the teal portion painted with a base coat of Citadel's "Stegadon Scale Green" and then got dry brushed with Citadel's "Lothern Blue" (giving it the rough and tough look while also darkening the teal used).

@ZealuxMyr your edges are so clean. is it a steady hand or tape?

@ZealuxMyr your edges are so clean. is it a steady hand or tape?

Just now, Force Majeure said:

@ZealuxMyr your edges are so clean. is it a steady hand or tape?

Yes.

Orange was taped (so I could airbrush the orange on without turning the whole bloody thing orange) the rest, including the drybrushing portion, was done with a steady hand.

10 minutes ago, ZealuxMyr said:

Yes.

Orange was taped (so I could airbrush the orange on without turning the whole bloody thing orange) the rest, including the drybrushing portion, was done with a steady hand.

I am jealous of your steady hands.

Quality paint is on my list of materials for my next repaint. The oxidized copper was achieved with craft store paints: 2 parts blue, 1 part green and 1 part white. Notice that I didn't specify which shades.

I am also unhappy with the black in the same brand. After barely thinning with water, it is a dark grey.

11 minutes ago, Yakostovian said:

I am jealous of your steady hands.

Quality paint is on my list of materials for my next repaint. The oxidized copper was achieved with craft store paints: 2 parts blue, 1 part green and 1 part white. Notice that I didn't specify which shades.

I am also unhappy with the black in the same brand. After barely thinning with water, it is a dark grey.

The key is more about bracing your hands against each other - never use a solid object like a table or chair. I always hold the model with my left hand, brace that hand against my knee, and brace my right hand (brush hand) against my left hand - bottom of palm to bottom of palm. This cuts down on shaking only because both the model and brush are matched in their unsteadiness. What you should be jealous of is my stupid nearsightedness - even armada squadrons, 18/0 brush and zero need for a magnifying glass. Downside is, without my glasses, I can't see for s**t beyond 3ft from my face...

Quality Paints: TAMIYA brand - seriously, the best but be careful - they're not clearly labeled between gloss and matte sometimes (Japanese brand).

Tamiya (and Citadel) thin nicely and stay black when thinned.

29 minutes ago, ZealuxMyr said:

best but be careful - they're not clearly labeled between gloss and matte sometimes

A clear coat of matte varnish/dull coat should fix that right up, if you get the wrong finish.

I think where I am going to go from here is to clean up the checkerboard, and then either

• Throw a greatly thinned ferrous oxide color over the wings OR
• Try for a solid color on the body instead of the "rusted" effect my poor painting skills and brush selection have given me.

If I go the latter, I think I will try for a VERY DARK teal instead of a more vibrant one. Any suggestions?

EDIT: I think the "rust" on the wings is the way to go.

I'm a little ignorant of painting techniques and tactics, so I could be wrong, but to me it looks like your hands are plenty steady, your paints are just too thinned. There's no way I could paint a checkerboard like that, and your yellow lines are very straight. The colors just seem to have bled into each other and filed up all the gaps, kind of like you're trying to paint panels with a wash or something.

And for what it's worth, I kinda like the color scheme you have going on there! I think with some Nuln Oil, white drybrush, and Purity Seal, you could definitely make those colors work together!

OK, I finally have time again for repaints, and today I am tackling the windscreen. Gloss black for the screen itself, but I haven't decided on a color for the frame to it. Yellow? Red? Aqua? Anyone got a preference or a suggestion?

I opted for a different direction than I originally stated. I think the metallic pink windscreen looks pretty good, but I want to hear your thoughts. I kept trying to paint symbols on top of the still drying Nuln Oil, and had to wash it off instead, so this is the current state.