1 hour ago, C3POFETT said:

Thanks, I just posted my Power Generator entry for the October Community Terrain Challenge. All made from "trash".

I am going full on for a totally interior build. I plan to have a modular Death Star/ Imperial Station that I can convert into a Star Killer Base interior by adding rock face walls. It will be constructed completely from foam core board and printed decals using Avery label sheets.

Excellent! looking forward to seeing the build. The use of the label sheets is a great idea ?

After making towers, I wanted to go back to making a building that would provide some interesting options for in-game mini movement and cover...

I envisage this building to be a cantina or market bizarre, full of shady corners and even shadier characters...

I designed the building so that each floor could be removed, allowing easy access for minis during gaming and opening up the available gaming space. I'll magnetise each component to keep the structure rigid during play...

18 hours ago, TUZ said:

Excellent! looking forward to seeing the build. The use of the label sheets is a great idea ?

Thank you. I play EA's Star Wars Battlefront and take alot of inspiration from the game for a build. I prefer the smaller team game modes as opposed to the large scale assaults. I know tables are supposed to 6'x3' but the Death Star is massive. The Survival maps for tbe Rebel Depot and Sullust would make great tables as well. They mix interior and exterior combat. I would prefer a mix of long range and close quarter combat.

I feel interiors would make for better objective heavy areas.

Your first structure posted of a Docking bay looks almost as if IT was the inspiration for the level of the game. I want my Death Star to be multi-leveled in some areas but until we learn more about ranged combat I am holding off. I don't want to build areas with catwalks and chasms that can't be used or wouldn't work with the rules of the game. I am used to flat map playing if that makes sense.

How do you intend to allow models to stop half-way up/down the stairs?

You could make a few accessories that are a square of thin plasti-card (the length of two steps) then glue a block that is the dimension of a single step on the under-side. That should allow it to sit on the steps creating a small temporary platform.

If the steps aren't half a base long, then you could make it a step longer and have a inverse double step underneath.

That last thing you just posted (cantina) is just brilliant!!! Looks great and functional too.

Wish there were easy to follow guides/templates for the lesser skilled for this!!!!

3 hours ago, C3POFETT said:

Thank you. I play EA's Star Wars Battlefront and take alot of inspiration from the game for a build. I prefer the smaller team game modes as opposed to the large scale assaults. I know tables are supposed to 6'x3' but the Death Star is massive. The Survival maps for tbe Rebel Depot and Sullust would make great tables as well. They mix interior and exterior combat. I would prefer a mix of long range and close quarter combat.

I feel interiors would make for better objective heavy areas.

Your first structure posted of a Docking bay looks almost as if IT was the inspiration for the level of the game. I want my Death Star to be multi-leveled in some areas but until we learn more about ranged combat I am holding off. I don't want to build areas with catwalks and chasms that can't be used or wouldn't work with the rules of the game. I am used to flat map playing if that makes sense.

SW Battlefront is great and agree, provides fantastic inspiration for map design and builds.

I think you're right about table/game sizes and that smaller tables can provide a more focused, intense gaming experience. I always like that x-wing throws you quickly into the mix, where the skill of those first few moves is key to ensuring you're prepared for when the first attack run hits!

For this table I'm thinking of a 4x4, with option to go up to 6x4 (I've been gaming for too many years... ). And whilst I'm not sure if FFG will introduce official rules, envisage my gaming buddies and I holding four player games of Legion.

I like your ideas of mixing interior and exterior environments; it holds both a lot of appeal from both a table design and tactical gaming perspective. I have two more boards / enviroments is like to build; imperial hangar bay and hoth (with tight tunnel fighting, alongside operation rooms / open cargo spaces etc.)

I echo your thoughts around multi- level combat and how this can effect commiting to certain table designs ?

1 hour ago, ABXY said:

How do you intend to allow models to stop half-way up/down the stairs?

You could make a few accessories that are a square of thin plasti-card (the length of two steps) then glue a block that is the dimension of a single step on the under-side. That should allow it to sit on the steps creating a small temporary platform.

If the steps aren't half a base long, then you could make it a step longer and have a inverse double step underneath.

That's a very good question ABXY!

Thankfully, my gaming group is pretty relaxed about the sort of in-game foiballs that can occur between scenery and mini placement etc. With players generally taking a pragmatic approach / putting a marker in place.

But... your solutions are spot on ? And would defiantly provide a great solution.

For some reason, I'm minded to see what I may be able to do with those little 'tables' they put in pizza boxes Trim two of the legs down to the depth of a step and remove the third leg altogether... could work?

I'd spray them black to make them look cool Come to think of it...i could use them in the cantina as tables for scenery... mmm........

6 minutes ago, TUZ said:

I like your ideas of mixing interior and exterior environments; it holds both a lot of appeal from both a table design and tactical gaming perspective. I have two more boards / enviroments is like to build; imperial hangar bay and hoth (with tight tunnel fighting, alongside operation rooms / open cargo spaces etc.)

This sounds awesome. I would love to see your hangar bay as a 4x4 table. No roof, no stairs using around a 2x2 round actual docking area center, giving you about an 8 to 10 inch wide "interior" all the way around that could have storage areas, control rooms and objective and extraction zones. I am envisioning the Survival map/Cargo map for the Rebel Depot from EA's Star Wars BattleFront.

I would also love to see what you could do with a war torn Theed/Naboo. Kind of a cross between the Palace area and any WWII movie/game you may have seen. Beautiful buildings with pillars and columns just turned to rubble. Not that I am telling you what to do but your work is amazing and I am honestly totally jealous.

2 minutes ago, C3POFETT said:

This sounds awesome. I would love to see your hangar bay as a 4x4 table. No roof, no stairs using around a 2x2 round actual docking area center, giving you about an 8 to 10 inch wide "interior" all the way around that could have storage areas, control rooms and objective and extraction zones. I am envisioning the Survival map/Cargo map for the Rebel Depot from EA's Star Wars BattleFront.

I would also love to see what you could do with a war torn Theed/Naboo. Kind of a cross between the Palace area and any WWII movie/game you may have seen. Beautiful buildings with pillars and columns just turned to rubble. Not that I am telling you what to do but your work is amazing and I am honestly totally jealous.

Cheers buddy!

I've been watching demo vids for BF2 and it's funny you mention Naboo; it had really got me thinking about a Naboo board...

I love the renaissance / Venetian inspired building designs, with sweeping columns and arched, fountains and planters...

To also apply a war torn / rubbled finish, would make for a really dramatic and cinematic looking gaming board ?

1 hour ago, VAYASAN said:

That last thing you just posted (cantina) is just brilliant!!! Looks great and functional too.

Wish there were easy to follow guides/templates for the lesser skilled for this!!!!

Thank you Vayasan!

Most of the time im ok with just building from the design that's in my head. But for the bigger buildings, like the landing pad / cantina, I like to sketch out a few designs before cutting the foam. Sometimes the drawings are for specific areas of the model, stairwells for example I.e. how will they join the floors and at what points, do they work in the context of the minis themselves?

I also like to build in 'blocks' of core components and not glue them in place, preferring to just place it in situ and reflect on it for a day or two; does it look right / would it benefit from being moved to a different position - the tower atop the landing pad is an example.

Either way, go for it - you'll do great ?

44 minutes ago, TUZ said:

For some reason, I'm minded to see what I may be able to do with those little 'tables' they put in pizza boxes Trim two of the legs down to the depth of a step and remove the third leg altogether... could work?

Yep, that should work too!

Ok another question, I can see you are in the UK(£25 or under in Tesco )

Where do you get the foamcore(if thats what it is) and the wood for the base?

Brilliant piece. Im working slowly on an Endor board but im not expanding to something like this too....**** you

10 minutes ago, VAYASAN said:

Ok another question, I can see you are in the UK(£25 or under in Tesco )

Where do you get the foamcore(if thats what it is) and the wood for the base?

Brilliant piece. Im working slowly on an Endor board but im not expanding to something like this too....**** you

Do It, do It, do It! ?

The foam is Celotex insulation board, you can pick it up from Wickes in various sizes and thicknesses ?

The wood for the bases is 6mm mdf. Again from either Wickes, stamco or even Homebase. I have used 3mm in the past but there's a risk the board will bend when the wood glue dries out and 'pulls' on the surface.

Cheers

GReat stuff.

I lied, one last question, those markings on the wood, are they 1inch?

Thanks again.

5 minutes ago, VAYASAN said:

GReat stuff.

I lied, one last question, those markings on the wood, are they 1inch?

Thanks again.

Yes, 1 inch square grid; It helps with sizing and mapping out placement of walls etc. and is roughly the base size for the minis, so helps with scaling

Two more buildings for the table;

Like the larger cantina / market building from the last post, I decided to make the roofs removable to allow for mins to be placed inside...

And the second building;

I still need to make plasticard doorways for all the buildings. I'll look to do them all in one batch at the end.

Cheers

Wholey smokes, dude!! I think you win!

Can't wait to see them when they're finished!

What thickness is the foam you are using? It looks like ~1/2". I am really excited to see your buildings finished! You have inspired me and I have decided to get started on a board and buildings based on a Lah'mu homestead (like the Erso homestead at the beginning of rogue one)

On 10/19/2017 at 11:52 AM, TUZ said:

In terms of priming, I'll likely use a slightly watered down acrylic paint. As you say, the solvents in a spray can would likely eat into the foam (although non solvent / non foam eating sprays are available on the market).

I know from experience the foam will soak up the first few base coats due to its porous nature. But once I have a reasonable surface to work on, I will look to airbrush all remaining coats / details.

The other thing I'll do is add in fine sand and PVA into the base mix to provide a textured surface. I'll also experiment with some patch plastering, to try and emulate the look of the buildings in the movies.

A good way to prime delicate surfaces is to use a brush on "Acrylic Enamel Paint". It can be used on foam and cardboard or foam board and it will not break down the foam or cause warping or wrinkles in the cardboard or foam board. Once it drys it can be re-surfaced any way you like. You can use any type paint and or add flocking. I like to think of it as a safe brush on primer.

Another way to surface your structures would be to use wall filler/spackle or a wall compound. Using any of those and thinning them down with water will give your structure the look and feel of stone or cement when dried. Apply it in thin coats and allow to dry until you achieve your desired finish, sand it and paint it with any paint you desire. I prefer it over a sand/glue mix.

Also where did you get the X-Wing and what scale is it?

Your buildings all look amazing, I like how you tie in your architecture to make all the pieces cohesive and not just a bunch of pieces to fill a table.

Created a proto-type door for the Tatooine buildings...

(It's dirty because of the smudged pen ink )

Initial thoughts; Not bad for a first attempt. One of the biggest challenges was bending the archway into shape. I used a hairdryer to heat the plasticard but it takes some time to get the desired curve. The rest of the shapes were fairly straightforward to cut out. There may however be a simpler solution for the slats on the inside of the arch; I note you can buy plasticard sheets with this type of design pre moulded...

The biggest consideration at this stage is that I'll be needing to build around 9 or so doors. And whilst I'll scratch build them all individually if needs be, I've also been investigating the option of creating molds and casting the extra doors to save time.

Decisions...

Two more buildings for the table. I think these are going to be the last two for now...

I'll look to magnetise the roofs...

Cheers

On 21/10/2017 at 11:14 PM, devin.pike.1989 said:

What thickness is the foam you are using? It looks like ~1/2". I am really excited to see your buildings finished! You have inspired me and I have decided to get started on a board and buildings based on a Lah'mu homestead (like the Erso homestead at the beginning of rogue one)

Hi, Yes 1/2 inch foam board. You can get it in thicker sheets, but this is perfect for model wall construction.

Great stuff re; your Lah'mu inspired board - should make for a dramatic setting for games of Legion. All the best with the build!

Cheers

9 hours ago, C3POFETT said:

A good way to prime delicate surfaces is to use a brush on "Acrylic Enamel Paint".

Great advice; I shall give this a try on some test foam so I understand the finish and how subsequent paint coats may look.

9 hours ago, C3POFETT said:

Another way to surface your structures would be to use wall filler/spackle or a wall compound. Using any of those and thinning them down with water will give your structure the look and feel of stone or cement when dried. Apply it in thin coats and allow to dry until you achieve your desired finish, sand it and paint it with any paint you desire. I prefer it over a sand/glue mix.

This is another great suggestion and one that I hadn't considered; the stone / cement look when dried is intriguing and could be just what I'm looking for on these buildings. I'll again do some test runs to see how things turn out ?

9 hours ago, C3POFETT said:

Also where did you get the X-Wing and what scale is it?

It's an MPC (amt/ertl) model kit

I think it's 1/48 scale. Slightly small for Legion but doesn't look too out of place

1 hour ago, TUZ said:

... Not bad for a first attempt...

Biggest understatement of the thread!

Much too modest - it's great!!

On 10/20/2017 at 7:20 AM, TUZ said:

snip

They only let me record a single like, **** it man.