Seriously laughed at your salt/brushing misstep... Totally something I would do ? Thanks for the comprehensive supply list!

3 hours ago, Sorsha30 said:

Seriously laughed at your salt/brushing misstep... Totally something I would do ? Thanks for the comprehensive supply list!

I suppose mistakes indicate misplaced effort and an opportunity for progress. Tiny steps forward. The goal is to have some of this sorted out prior to touching the gaming minis and models.

1 minute ago, Dash Two said:

I suppose mistakes indicate misplaced effort and an opportunity for progress. Tiny steps forward. The goal is to have some of this sorted out prior to touching the gaming minis and models.

How do you have access to minis already?

Just now, JackD2204 said:

How do you have access to minis already?

I don't. Thus, the statement with prior ... make a bunch of mistakes prior to having them

Not being smart with reply. Easiest way to convey/answer

geez, I actually thought that the IA rangers were the new figures, they look very similar. This is a good idea, but I think I want to save all of my money for legion.

47 minutes ago, JackD2204 said:

geez, I actually thought that the IA rangers were the new figures, they look very similar. This is a good idea, but I think I want to save all of my money for legion.

Based on photos, yes, they appear identical to one of the Legion models except ...

The arms can be attached AFTER you paint the face on the Legion models. YES!!!!

1 hour ago, Dash Two said:

I suppose mistakes indicate misplaced effort and an opportunity for progress. Tiny steps forward. The goal is to have some of this sorted out prior to touching the gaming minis and models.

I 1000% appreciate your mistakes and problem solving. So helpful for the newbies like me ?

2 hours ago, Dash Two said:

Based on photos, yes, they appear identical to one of the Legion models except ...

The arms can be attached AFTER you paint the face on the Legion models. YES!!!!

Yeah, you can probably get the detail you want for the stomach/chest area much easier before you attach the arms.

Brief Update ... more tomorrow ...

So I had taped (Tamiya hobby product) my T-47 to place a colored stripe on the bottom of the craft and, then, hit the spots normally either grey/blue/orange on the very front of the vehicle and back sides.

Put a layer down of blue and angled lines of yellow. Finally get back to it this weekend ...

The weather last week ... just at end of patience with it ... really screwed up the work. Learn this as I remove the tape. And ....

Components of the model stripped of paint and, then, primed and coated with light grey. Like, back to square 1. Luckily, some of it in sub-assembly. Other parts due to lack of fitting are bonded together via superglue and no getting them apart.

Currently, researching air brushes.

Just done fighting spray cans and the sensitivity of that paint that exists between exit of nozzle and,then, the 10-16 inches of air it travels prior to hitting the target. The work I did last week was, technically, inside the temp window yet it still flecked/spotted and or ran.

Tomorrow, an attempt to reclaim the model and or throwing it together; using the transfers included to get some practice and calling it a day

Let's start wit the good ...

I was able to revisit the colored panels and with the use of masking liquid and tape get something fairly decent with a rattle can. By design the edges are frayed. Feeling good ...

Now, the bad, which has found my T-47 bordering on either finding a fire; pack of fireworks; the trash can or all three. Little tongue in cheek yet I have realized this Bandai kit, which is awesome, may be little beyond novice level

This whole snapping right together thing ... yeah ... not happening with some of my parts and, as a novice, making it extremely challenging to hang with this and finish. Example ...

Yeah ... That is as good as I can get that together ... post use of glue. Talking the part that covers the front engine area. This is also the side with the grit, which you can see. And the other side ...

It is making it impossible to line all the pieces up.

Has anyone struggle with this on the same model?

At what point do you call it a day and just go with it? Me trying to fit it broke all the bonds of glue that was holding some of the smaller pieces together.

Kept at it today. Fit a few pieces together to see how it looked. Yeah, the transfers are a little wrinkled. Yeah, I used a liberal amount of oil filters, which was an error previously outlined. But ... learned a fair amount up until this point,

I threw in the towel trying to fix the pieces that will not mesh and or align properly. Now, I understand why you do the dry fit/test run.

Yeah, it can be super frustrating when that happens. As you said, a dry run helps a lot since you can see where the issues are and take steps to deal with it before the glue is on.

Now it is on, you could try filling the gap with some filler or super glue gel, but it mkight cause more harm than good. I’d leave it because....

Now the good news....nobody apart from you is likely to notice it much, if at all! I find I’m always hyper aware of flaws on my models that people simply don’t notice. This is very likely one of those

26 minutes ago, Extropia said:

Yeah, it can be super frustrating when that happens. As you said, a dry run helps a lot since you can see where the issues are and take steps to deal with it before the glue is on.

Now it is on, you could try filling the gap with some filler or super glue gel, but it mkight cause more harm than good. I’d leave it because....

Now the good news....nobody apart from you is likely to notice it much, if at all! I find I’m always hyper aware of flaws on my models that people simply don’t notice. This is very likely one of those

Thank you.

I did try a little T=I-N-Y bit of super glue and scorched the paint. So I immediately stopped and have filed today under l essons learned.

Gi ven I am not on airplanes and gone for the first time in weeks, goal is to wrap this project up next weekend.

I ended up with a few hours this afternoon and opted to pick up a paint brush vs continuance on the T-47. Needed a break. And sort of felt like painting. Based on a few of Sorastro's videos and, then, a new mini-series on Tabletop Minions featuring Sam Lenz I decided to try wet blending. For whatever reason just figured I would try it.

48 hours of hobby challenges (this weekend) and ... BOOM

Not claiming I am Picasso or on schedule to win awards. For me, though, this is so much easier and far more intuitive than the traditional prime; paint; wash and many layers and highlights.

Other new guys ... you gotta try this

I took the model; Primed light tan. Then, Tamiya white at a steep angle for a zenithal (road map of model). Hard to tell from the photo due to the lighter hues. Then,, picked my colors and popped open some glaze medium. Pair of brushes ... go

I am thinking, perhaps, I used a pair of tones really close together and, maybe, should consider two colors presenting more contrast.

Some test models ...

Blue is my first mini ... rough sketch on the Pathfinders from R!. Yellow is my second mini and test model for how I plan to paint my first Rebels. Yes, very much a DAK feel and look.

Note ... the bottom of the base ... the large circle ... well, apparently primer only misted on it and I gave up trying to paint it. Little messy. Lesson Learned.

My yellow model' face .. to me ... came out tiny bit better than the first

I thought my basing ... baking soda/super glue ... base layer ... shade ... 2 layers of dry brushing ... few layers of rocks/grit ... a plant ... came out decent

I plan on grabbing some random plastic and testing some basing (colors) layers. I am fairly certain Vallejo Flat Tan/Light Wash/Iraqi Sand dry brush/Pale Sand dry brush or Light Brown/Same steps will give a pretty natural sand/desert look. Took notes and that is my next small test.

Used the same dry texture paint from my original model on page one to get a dusty feel on both models. Not digging it

My yellow model ... failed to take photos ... was better prior to shading. I took my time and did a bunch of wet blending and I liked the look. I am still struggling to bring colors back after a shade. For whatever reason the wet blending is coming easier than paint/shade/block/highlight.

Do you have to use shades? Does anyone opt not to use them?

Put some paint chips onto the yellow mini's helmet

In the interest of working smarter not harder ... and curiosity ... I bought some Army Painter Desert Yellow primer. Using in on my next model to understand the time I can save and, then, what that under color will do with flesh tones or green or a brown.

And ... small effort to step up my photo game

This was the first time in 1-2 weeks where I had a block of time. My T-47 got a gloss coat and is drying. Final few decals on the airframe and tiny bit more effects and it will be done.

As always, thanks for following along. Any feedback welcomed.

On 1/21/2018 at 12:37 PM, Dash Two said:

Just at end of patience with it ... really screwed up the work. Learn this as I remove the tape. And .... Components of the model stripped of paint and, then, primed and coated with light grey. Like, back to square 1.

I had a similar problem when painting a door frame, I think what happens if the paint dries, then it "sets hard", so if you leave it for too long it bonds to the tape too. You then lift the tape and get chips along the edge rather than a good clean line. As such I think you remove the tape before the paint "sets hard" as it were. You also probably want to give it time if you are then going to mask over a new coat of paint, you want to give it a day or two to "set hard" then when you mask it you won't lift off the paint with the adhesive from the tape.

Something else that can affect the results here is oils off you fingers that can affect the way the paint adheres to the model and the tape.

In Australia we have a brand of tape that is blue, I have found this to have the best balance of stick, it will stick to your model with just enough strength to stay in place and give you a nice result but is not so sticky as to lift the paint under. I think it may be a 3M brand but can't remember. The Tan coloured tape you get at the supermarket is far too sticky and will cause you grief. I guess you can apply to your pants and make the tape less sticky, but if you go too far paint can get under the edge or smear.

10 hours ago, Dash Two said:

Do you have to use shades? Does anyone opt not to use them?

Shades are just one technique. If you can get sufficient darks in your creases through straight wet-blending, and you like the result, then you don't need to bother. Shading helps get some shadows in easily while also blending transitions some.

One technique you can do with shades/washes, though, is to thin the wash down a bit and then brush it into the folds as normal. But, then, use a damp brush to pull the shade off the highlights. This is useful for things with bright colors (i.e. Stormtroopers), where trying to bring those colors back after a wash can be too difficult/time-consuming to bother.

Sorastro does this on his IA AT-ST video and, I believe, on another one at least, but I can't recall which one.

6 hours ago, Lickintoad said:

Shades are just one technique. If you can get sufficient darks in your creases through straight wet-blending, and you like the result, then you don't need to bother. Shading helps get some shadows in easily while also blending transitions some.

One technique you can do with shades/washes, though, is to thin the wash down a bit and then brush it into the folds as normal. But, then, use a damp brush to pull the shade off the highlights. This is useful for things with bright colors (i.e. Stormtroopers), where trying to bring those colors back after a wash can be too difficult/time-consuming to bother.

Sorastro does this on his IA AT-ST video and, I believe, on another one at least, but I can't recall which one.

Thank you

i have done enough tinkering to not lather the minis in washes/shades. Via all the tutorials I gave watched ... many hours ... have become little tactical.

i thnk if I got a little more aggressive with the blending/feathering ... could be in better shape. I keep all my tones really close together. If I had a higher dynamic between the mid, dark and light, then I may get a better result.

Then, only wash certain items, like Sephia on brown/leather objects.

My next test model blending only. See what happens.

On 1/21/2018 at 1:37 PM, Dash Two said:

Yeah ... That is as good as I can get that together ... post use of glue. Talking the part that covers the front engine area. This is also the side with the grit, which you can see. And the other sIt is making it impossible to line all the pieces up.

Has anyone struggle with this on the same model?

At what point do you call it a day and just go with it? Me trying to fit it broke all the bonds of glue that was holding some of the smaller pieces together.

I have had this difficulty with 28mm tank models, and obvious seam lines on push-fit fantasy models. A small snake of greenstuff smoothed out can fill the gap.

4 hours ago, Caimheul1313 said:

I have had this difficulty with 28mm tank models, and obvious seam lines on push-fit fantasy models. A small snake of greenstuff smoothed out can fill the gap.

Boom!

Thank you. I have some and never considered using it.

Work temporarily taking me away from my brushes, models and hobby fortress of solitude. Side notes ... is work ever just temporarily in the way or is that just me and my job?

Ok ... a question aimed at the more than casual ... done this a few times ... I just "own" modeling and kit bashing and customizing in general ... individual(s) ...

Upon doing a scratch build you ...

• 100% authentic to scale, shape and zero deviation
• Your close ... like 80% ... but take some artistic liberties
• Concept only. General likeness and conveys the idea. Would never be considered exact

My T-47 is done. I need to get the updated photos posted with a final write-up.

I have a few test IA models primed and wanted a break from painting.

Giving my first hand at test building. I have 2 different ideas. Have found blue print/concept drawings online. Sorted out scale. On fence with going 100% or 80% with some slight variation.

Just curious

When scratch building stuff, I make it close to scale. 80% isn't too far off. I don't do blue print or concept drawings. I just build what comes to me, but I can visualize what I what most of the time.

On 1/21/2018 at 12:37 PM, Dash Two said:

Now, the bad, which has found my T-47 bordering on either finding a fire; pack of fireworks; the trash can or all three. Little tongue in cheek yet I have realized this Bandai kit, which is awesome, may be little beyond novice level

This whole snapping right together thing ... yeah ... not happening with some of my parts and, as a novice, making it extremely challenging to hang with this and finish. Example ...

Yeah ... That is as good as I can get that together ... post use of glue. Talking the part that covers the front engine area. This is also the side with the grit, which you can see. And the other side ...

It is making it impossible to line all the pieces up.

Has anyone struggle with this on the same model?

At what point do you call it a day and just go with it? Me trying to fit it broke all the bonds of glue that was holding some of the smaller pieces together.

I just bought and put together the Bandai T-47. It is a fabulous model, and snaps together very well--with a couple very minor exceptions. I had the same problem you did on the blaster not lining up perfectly, which is a huge cosmetic problem. Luckily I bought and assembled mine as wreckage terrain, so I took a few liberties.

I would also like to say that your detail painting is incredible, especially for a less-experienced painter!

@Big Easy

Thanks for the compliment. For whatever reason the cockpit was relatively easy to paint, whereas, minis are still challenging.

Ok ... this is the first time weekend or week, however you want to look at it, I have not worked 6-7 days. With that I an update on the new guy hobby long. Given the game is about to release and other brand new hobby/painter types may see this for the first time, scroll back. Links to vids ... a supplies list ... my running list of things gone awry ... check it out.

A Color Chart

This is something I made with an acrylic/water color specific piece of paper/stock and grey, white and black primer. Helps with under shading and I am finding it handy in all things I am doing.

First, my short hand is not easy to read. V = Vallejo and C = Citadel.

Next, I got very lucky at a local model shop. They had a bunch of older paints sitting around. There are products to help restore paints. I struck a deal with the owner and bought all of them. Yes, it took some work on my part but I save around 80% of the retail price on close to 100% of what you see listed.