I recently tried stripping the FFG paint job off of a CR 90, with 99% pure rubbing alchol. It worked pretty **** well got it down to base plastic with about a day of soaking and a scrub with a toothbrush 4 hrs in then a good scrub every 8 hrs. Seemed to do it pretty good job no harsh ches or smells, unless alchol falls into that catagory for you. I would attach pictures but i am a luddite, apparently.

You need rubbing alcohol. Their base paint is s baked-on latex based paint that basically comes off in so few ways. It is hard wearing for that reason.

but pure alcohol will horridly dehydrate and de moisturise unprotected skin. In the short term, it can lead to some nasty injuries and horrible weeping wounds as skin shrivels and cracks. So glove up with appropriate resistant gloves.

note: latex gloves also dissolve.

Nitrile gloves. I use them not only for the chemicals but also for painting to keep my skin oil off the subject.

14 hours ago, WGNF911 said:

Nitrile gloves. I use them not only for the chemicals but also for painting to keep my skin oil off the subject.

Subject.....is there something we should know?

Seriously though I found this in my opinion to be preferable to simple green.

8 minutes ago, Noosh said:

Seriously though I found this in my opinion to be preferable to simple green.

That's because Simple Green isn't Alcohol based, for that Latex Stripping.

Simple Green is great for removing Acrylics. Which is why it is often used in the modelling and miniature world. Because 90% of the paints that someone puts on miniatures is Acrylic based these days... (Enamels are still the holdouts of actual scale modellers, or people doing miniatures for displays or weathering, which is normally not something you end up stripping ).

Baked-on-Latex based paints for toys has been around forever. But it wasn't really until Mage Knight that it was populated for Miniatures. (And even back then, it was horrible ). It has improved over the years, to the point now of being actually quite thin and detailed... But its #1, unlike acrylic, is that it will not wear off due to handling. Because it won't react with skin oils and such (which is why latex paint is often used as prosthetic and skin paint). So you need something that is actually a wretched solvent to work on it.

21 minutes ago, Drasnighta said:

That's because Simple Green isn't Alcohol based, for that Latex Stripping.

Simple Green is great for removing Acrylics. Which is why it is often used in the modelling and miniature world. Because 90% of the paints that someone puts on miniatures is Acrylic based these days... (Enamels are still the holdouts of actual scale modellers, or people doing miniatures for displays or weathering, which is normally not something you end up stripping ).

Baked-on-Latex based paints for toys has been around forever. But it wasn't really until Mage Knight that it was populated for Miniatures. (And even back then, it was horrible ). It has improved over the years, to the point now of being actually quite thin and detailed... But its #1, unlike acrylic, is that it will not wear off due to handling. Because it won't react with skin oils and such (which is why latex paint is often used as prosthetic and skin paint). So you need something that is actually a wretched solvent to work on it.

I understand all of that. The history lesson is cool and all. But I get the feeling your angling to a point here and I'll be honest I'm missing it.

Why bother stripping it at all? It is so thin you prime over and move on with life, without consequence.

Just now, Noosh said:

I understand all of that. The history lesson is cool and all. But I get the feeling your angling to a point here and I'll be honest I'm missing it.

No, no, no point.

Just agreeing with you, providing further insight.

Was trying to be back-patting "awesome" more than anything

Just now, Drasnighta said:

No, no, no point.

Just agreeing with you, providing further insight.

Was trying to be back-patting "awesome" more than anything

Fair enough, read a little too much into that lol.

3 minutes ago, Darthain said:

Why bother stripping it at all? It is so thin you prime over and move on with life, without consequence.

Now this , I have a point on.

That point in particular is the AFMK-II model.

There is something with the way their paint was baked on. It is more textured than the others... Which doesn't make a huge difference, until you try to wash the **** thing after priming and painting .

The Wash doesn't flow. It just binds to the surface. It happened with all 3 of my AF models... Which were all painted by rattlecan and airbrush at the same time as the Nebs, Vettes and MC80s... But it happened to all of them. And since the material and application was identical between all of the models, and indeed, everything was done simultaniously, I'm only lead to believe it was the surface.

The surface pre-priming was soap-water washed, so it wasn't a dust issue.

Ever since then, I've been religious about stripping back to bare plastic before priming them. It solved the problem at that point... But I had to go through a horrible experience before it reinforced that point.

1 minute ago, Drasnighta said:

Now this , I have a point on.

That point in particular is the AFMK-II model.

There is something with the way their paint was baked on. It is more textured than the others... Which doesn't make a huge difference, until you try to wash the **** thing after priming and painting .

The Wash doesn't flow. It just binds to the surface. It happened with all 3 of my AF models... Which were all painted by rattlecan and airbrush at the same time as the Nebs, Vettes and MC80s... But it happened to all of them.

Ever since then, I've been religious about stripping back to bare plastic before priming them. It solved the problem at that point... But I had to go through a horrible experience before it reinforced that point.

Ah, an extremely matt surface, interesting. Haven't painted my modified AFMKII, and don't really use washes on the space ships, except for weathering, so I doubt its primed self will care.

1 minute ago, Darthain said:

Ah, an extremely matt surface, interesting. Haven't painted my modified AFMKII, and don't really use washes on the space ships, except for weathering, so I doubt its primed self will care.

Yep. Its more a "I learned the hard way" word of caution for people, that's all

At least its the easiest **** model to pull apart of the whole lot. Its got that going for it, at least.

3 minutes ago, Drasnighta said:

Now this , I have a point on.

That point in particular is the AFMK-II model.

There is something with the way their paint was baked on. It is more textured than the others... Which doesn't make a huge difference, until you try to wash the **** thing after priming and painting .

The Wash doesn't flow. It just binds to the surface. It happened with all 3 of my AF models... Which were all painted by rattlecan and airbrush at the same time as the Nebs, Vettes and MC80s... But it happened to all of them. And since the material and application was identical between all of the models, and indeed, everything was done simultaniously, I'm only lead to believe it was the surface.

The surface pre-priming was soap-water washed, so it wasn't a dust issue.

Ever since then, I've been religious about stripping back to bare plastic before priming them. It solved the problem at that point... But I had to go through a horrible experience before it reinforced that point.

I agree I always prefer to start up from scatch when I paint. Double so with the models with fine details. It always bothers me when there has been a slathering of paint. Also on ffg models they base white. Sometimes I like to prime black (or green when I don't feel like layering a base on top primer, I love green.) for that overall darker feel.

As a caveat to the above I only mind when others slathering paint on. When I do it it's A-okay. Don't want to give the wrong impression or anything I am at best and average painter. Most of the things I learned were from the school of hard knocks in the 28mm figure wing.

I just started stripping the paint, on my Armada stuff because I found an insufficient level of green in my fleet, and that needed to be rectified. Hopefully as soon as I figure out how to post pictures here and finish up a model I'll show the mediocre fruits of my labors. I have some MC 80's that I want to LED as well but that's fun for another day.

Subject = model

as for posting, I've switched to Imgur. Simple to upload and post. I've been reposting to my "portfolio" after the service I was using demanded money.

On 9/29/2017 at 10:15 PM, Drasnighta said:

You need rubbing alcohol. Their base paint is s baked-on latex based paint that basically comes off in so few ways. It is hard wearing for that reason.

but pure alcohol will horridly dehydrate and de moisturise unprotected skin. In the short term, it can lead to some nasty injuries and horrible weeping wounds as skin shrivels and cracks. So glove up with appropriate resistant gloves.

note: latex gloves also dissolve.

Good advice. If this happens, or starts to happen get yourself a tin of bag balm. It is an industrial strength moisturizer for cows utters. I used it extensively when I worked for a plaster shop years ago. It does wonders for your hands.

On 10/12/2017 at 1:27 AM, cynanbloodbane said:

Good advice. If this happens, or starts to happen get yourself a tin of bag balm. It is an industrial strength moisturizer for cows utters. I used it extensively when I worked for a plaster shop years ago. It does wonders for your hands.

Smells foul though ?

Prefer carbolic salve (black salve) personally but good luck finding that.