Hi. I'm new to painting. I will be posting pictures of artwork and such. Also, I could use tips and such.

I am currently in school so I may not post often, but I will reply asap!

Welcome to the wonderful world of painting tiny ships!!

Thanks, Malabor!

Do you have any tips or tricks for a new painter?

For those of you wondering, I can't post pictures now because I am at school. (Don't tell my instructor!)

2 hours ago, Darth Drago said:

Thanks, Malabor!

Do you have any tips or tricks for a new painter?

Always thin your paints with a little water; don't go straight from the pot to the model.

This was my first ever modification:

The fire was from an old LEGO piece. I melted it down and (tried to) bend it to a decent shape. It's held on with some gray poster putty. I used gray so that it would look like the ship had melted into that shape. Hope you enjoy!

My second mod. (First paint!)

I found a picture of a mining guild TIE and though that I would be able to do it easily. Wasn't the best, but, still looks better than a normal TIE. (I know I didn't cut the wings right.) I don't mind criticism!

My second paint job. I wanted to have an escortee so that my TIE could protect something. Mining guild Decimator, enter stage.

(I'm having trouble with pictures. There should be more later!)

Welcome. All on my experience is actually with figures and terrian as I've not painted any ships yet, but here is what I got for you.

As noted, keep your paints on the thin side - it is easier to add more paint to something later than take some away.

Youtube drybrushing techniques and ink washes. Don't be afraid to jump in to using inks as they are not that tricky and can boost your results exponentially. When I painted figures, I often gave the whole fig a wash of thinned brown-black after I laid all the initial colors and did a little highlighting. It gives a dirtier, muted look that I like a lot. Add a couple drops of Future Floor Wax to the mixture as it disrupts the hydrostatic bonds and increases flow incredibly.

Let things dry completely before doing the next step. Work on several models at a time so you can shift to X while Y dries.

Get a jeweler's saw. Totally worth it.

Nothing beats "steel music rod" for pinning, but you need to get hardened clippers to cut it as it will destroy regular tools.

These are great for your first time. I admire how you are jumping in with both feet! ?

What would i use a jewelers saw for?

And thanks!

Cutting things up

Yellow paint looks a bit thick IMO. Try to water it down and aply several layers, or choose a cheap spray for the main layer.

Great work!

Tip: take your time and don't rush or force things. This applies to all things in life (and love...)--too sappy!--Anyways:

The saw is also known as a "razor saw". The blade is very thin, so when it removes material, it doesn't leave a wide gap. It offers you a good amount of control when cutting straight lines like in your Mining Guild TIE.

OK! Thanks.

17 hours ago, Minaith said:

Yellow paint looks a bit thick IMO. Try to water it down and aply several layers, or choose a cheap spray for the main layer.

I hand painted this.

I bought my first airbrush halfway through the Decimator. I now see why everyone likes them......

I used an X-ACTO knife. Is that the same?

16 hours ago, Force Majeure said:

Great work!

Tip: take your time and don't rush or force things. This applies to all things in life (and love...)--too sappy!--Anyways:

The saw is also known as a "razor saw". The blade is very thin, so when it removes material, it doesn't leave a wide gap. It offers you a good amount of control when cutting straight lines like in your Mining Guild TIE.

What do you guys think of washes.

I was thinking about making my own. (I'm on a budget)

Any suggestions?

-DD

1 hour ago, Darth Drago said:

I used an X-ACTO knife. Is that the same?

18 hours ago, Force Majeure said:

X-ACTO makes some of these saws, but it is not itself a knife.

1 hour ago, Darth Drago said:

What do you guys think of washes.

I was thinking about making my own.

You can make a simple wash just by watering down a color, but it is not a true wash. If you are on a budget, this will get you by.

You CAN make actual washes, but it takes a little more investment. Watch this video for how to do it.

6 hours ago, Darth Drago said:

What do you guys think of washes.

I was thinking about making my own. (I'm on a budget)

Any suggestions?

-DD

Time ago I read about adding a single drop of dishwasher soap to your watered paint to make it more similar to standard ink. Soap or no soap, just try your technique on a cheap and wasteable model before bring it to the real models.

What/Where can I get...

A Cheap model for testing washes out.

Try some plastic army men or other toys. Something with a lot of crevasses and texture.

OK. I bet my brother has a bunch of those...

9 hours ago, Minaith said:

Time ago I read about adding a single drop of dishwasher soap to your watered paint to make it more similar to standard ink. Soap or no soap, just try your technique on a cheap and wasteable model before bring it to the real models.

It disrupts the ability of the water molecules to stick together, as such, you get better flow. Future floor wax does the same.

On 9/21/2017 at 9:36 AM, Pewpewpew BOOM said:

Welcome. All on my experience is actually with figures and terrian as I've not painted any ships yet, but here is what I got for you.

As noted, keep your paints on the thin side - it is easier to add more paint to something later than take some away.

Youtube drybrushing techniques and ink washes. Don't be afraid to jump in to using inks as they are not that tricky and can boost your results exponentially. When I painted figures, I often gave the whole fig a wash of thinned brown-black after I laid all the initial colors and did a little highlighting. It gives a dirtier, muted look that I like a lot. Add a couple drops of Future Floor Wax to the mixture as it disrupts the hydrostatic bonds and increases flow incredibly.

Let things dry completely before doing the next step. Work on several models at a time so you can shift to X while Y dries.

Get a jeweler's saw. Totally worth it.

Nothing beats "steel music rod" for pinning, but you need to get hardened clippers to cut it as it will destroy regular tools.

These are great for your first time. I admire how you are jumping in with both feet! ?

there's some good advice in this one. I've just started getting back into model painting after being away from it for years. The most important thing is PATIENCE! Let everything dry completely and use lots of thin layers. not only will the details of these awesome ships shine through, but it'll give you more time to decide on what parts you want to highlight and what parts to leave alone. Remember, sometimes the most impactful way to show something off it to leave it alone. Not EVERYTHING has to be painted. Also, don't be afraid to experiment. Remember, you can always paint over it later and start again. Have fun, looking forward to seeing more of your projects!

Hello Drago.

Welcome to the Forum.

Firstly great job on the models ! the more you do the better you will get, and you will enjoy the learning processes you go.

you will find everybody in the painting Forum very helpful " They are a great bunch on here " with tips and tricks and any info you should need

as you continue on your X-Wing Painting & Modification journey

All the best,

Barry.