If you want to paint models in a hurry just to get them on the table, red is the wrong color to choose. Red needs half a dozen coats but somehow manages to show though **** near everything if you get it somewhere that it shouldn't be.

Any tips for getting red to go on decently without needing to keep applying it?

1. Prime in white

2. Use army painter red primer

3. Air brush red areas

4. Use citadels darkest red to start.

red is always difficult over dark primer

41 minutes ago, Drakoniss said:

1. Prime in white

2. Use army painter red primer

3. Air brush red areas

4. Use citadels darkest red to start.

red is always difficult over dark primer

Pretty much what he said.

I prime in black (largely because I have two bottles of it). For areas I plan to paint red, I go over first with white (or in my current work, a very light pink), and then apply the red. Even then, you usually need at least two coats to get it even, but it does help. The biggest hurtle is the quality of the red paint you're using. I recommend Citadel's Blood Red (or whatever they are calling it now). It's typically fairly easy (as red goes) to work with, and has a strong tone.

Also, do a coat in Bleached Bone or similar off-white and then paint red over that.

Actually, I find that a coat of silver does the trick even better that white, as it will reflect the red you paint on top. If you prime white you should be fine, but if you have any other colour under then give it a coat of silver and you'll be good

This is why i use Evil Sunz Red from Citadel for red, or averand sunset for yellow for that matter.

Its much thicker so it needs a bit of patience to work with so it doesnt gunk up, but it will paint over black in 1-2 coats solidly.

Oddly enough i dont have this issue with green/blue, or even white for that matter. Which i find really, really weird. One of my Calvary is on a white horse and it only took 2 coats which is surprising since im used to white taking like 4-5 coats lol

9 hours ago, Corto said:

Actually, I find that a coat of silver does the trick even better that white, as it will reflect the red you paint on top. If you prime white you should be fine, but if you have any other colour under then give it a coat of silver and you'll be good

I may have to give that a go.

Vallejo reds have very good coverage as well, might want to try them. At least the darker ones. I rarely prime anything but white, and white vase coats definitely help.

On 2017-5-3 at 8:56 AM, WWHSD said:

If you want to paint models in a hurry just to get them on the table, red is the wrong color to choose. Red needs half a dozen coats but somehow manages to show though **** near everything if you get it somewhere that it shouldn't be.

Any tips for getting red to go on decently without needing to keep applying it?

Yellows, oranges and reds have often trouble. I'd choose vallejo for metallics, grey, blue, greens... buy for warm colours I recomend citadel base/foundation. They are thick and strong. 1-2 layers is enough. Perfect for tabletop results.

When you want a strong change in colours you should give a previous coat. FE: to paint vallejo's ivory white on my reanimate bones I first applied a layer of light brown from citadel base on it. The quickliest and best for tabletop results.

Be careful with water:

• Too much ruins the layer.
• A little is often the best.
• If the paint is not dense (and/or you want a total cover), you may need no water. But watch out for paint lumps

2 hours ago, druchii7 said:

Be careful with water:

• Too much ruins the layer.
• A little is often the best.
• If the paint is not dense (and/or you want a total cover), you may need no water. But watch out for paint lumps

Proper paint dilution is something that I struggle with. I use mostly Army Painter and Vallejo paints (I haven't been getting Citadel paints because I prefer the dropper bottles to the pots that Citadel uses). I find that they tend to be thin enough to paint with undiluted most of the time but I'm going through paint faster than I should be and it tends to obscure some detail with multiple coats or in tight spaces. It seems like if I add a brushful of water the paint almost gets too runny.

I used to use citadel but i primarily switched to Army Painter for the same reason you use them: droppers ftw! Though like i said earlier i keep some citadels around because of the thickness.

I find with the Armypainter stuff if i add any water it needs to be added to a sizable batch of paint. Like 8 drops worth before i add a brush full of water, otherwise it dilutes the crap out of it. Fortunately, except for my white for some reason, theyre pretty thin as it is.

Armypainter Red has to be the thinnest paint ever....that stuff took me like 5 coats to stop showing an obvious black primer underneath.

I haven't picked up Runewars yet, but in preparation I have been finishing up my Imperial Assault (which I bought at launch, lol). The Royal Guard took me quite a few coats of red because I primed in black. That was a major bummer. I thinned my paint 1:1 with water, which probably didn't make my life easier. But after the 4th-5th coat it looks pretty good. By the way, I'm using Apple Barrel craft paint. Because I'm cheap.

As far as thinning, I always touch my paintbrush to a paper towel to get the excess water off, but a lot of the thinned paint stays on the brush, so it goes on he miniature easily and in thin layers. It took me a couple tries to get my groove back, but I'm pleased with how they're turning out. Can't wait for my reanimates!

For thinning vallejo, in the following works , load the brush with water, drain most, then stir it in, or just stir it around a touch on a wet palette.

Dislike GW as the paint is far too thick. Reaper master series very very thin conversely. Also GW pots are trash.

I undercoat in black then use gamesworkshops Mephiston red, normally only takes 2 coats