Hey guys,

I played a demo game and was very intrigued, set up a pre-order on a core box and I'm looking forward to painting both sides and having some fun casual games.

That said, I think the biggest downside in the game is the physical difficulty in removing a tray once its clear of guys. In a casual game, at least, do you think it would be ok to leave the empty trays there until a whole row is wiped out? I understand how columns multiply damage and rows allow rerolls, and I think as long as you can tell the unit size still, it shouldn't affect maneuverability or combat too much to leave the empty trays there until the entire back row is wiped out. That way you can mark the units location, pick it up, and remove an entire row at once instead of stopping to take out each 4 man tray as they all die.

What do you guys think?

I've had no issues with the trays. Use the deployment marker to mark your spot if your units not engaged and they slip right out. Doesn't take more than a couple seconds

the problem you'd run into is if a unit gets flanked and you have empty trays or someone tries moving to a spot that your empty trays are occupying

A couple things:

#1 Unless you are being hit by ranged damage while not engaged with an enemy, it actually doesn't matter if your unit gets bumped all over, as long as who you are squared up with isn't also moving. Do what you need to do to remove the tray, then realign your unit.

#2 Trays being absent is very important once units start getting flanked. Something could potentially be charging in through your side and be squared up against your back rank while simultaneously touching the back of your front rank.

Like rowdy said, when flanking and troop movement start getting thick then the absent of a tray can be critical. I haven't had any real issue with my tray though I have heard some people have.

If the puzzle piece connectors are too fiddly for you, you can file down/off the angled part of the connectors. Easy peasy.

File down and magnetize the connection areas?

I was glint to do that and then use plasti-card to cover it all up.

Find out how you could conceal it with your basing and install a little handle or grip point in the center of the tray.

If it's lower than the models, it won't show when the tray is full.

Most of the problem is the lack of grip. You wind up pulling at an angle with binds the teeth. With a handle you could pull straight up. No binding.

Just now, Tvayumat said:

Find out how you could conceal it with your basing and install a little handle or grip point in the center of the tray.

If it's lower than the models, it won't show when the tray is full.

Most of the problem is the lack of grip. You wind up pulling at an angle with binds the teeth. With a handle you could pull straight up. No binding.

Pinned fences! Trees, stone walls, snow shoes, discarded weapons...

I'm hoping that we see some third party (or even FFG) come out with same-size trays that are magnetized instead of puzzle pieces. Of course they will be more $$$, but probably easier to use (you would just have to brace carefully when removing).

6 minutes ago, drkpnthr said:

I'm hoping that we see some third party (or even FFG) come out with same-size trays that are magnetized instead of puzzle pieces. Of course they will be more $$$, but probably easier to use (you would just have to brace carefully when removing).

Unfortunately, the connector pieces are explicitly mentioned in the RRG on numerous occasions for overlapping, contacting, and targeting purposes.

Can't really do anything about the shape.

You also need to pull away the dead trays becuase if an opponents tray would cross that area it does not get in the way of the movement

I haven't seen too much difficulty separating trays (though you can always sand them down a bit if needed.

What I do advise is NOT painting the edges. Black might not be as pretty as a color matching your basing scheme, but it will separate easier and anythign you paint on a puzzle piece edge is almost sure to be very scratched up over time.