Yup. Love vcx. Play vcx alot. I don't even bother trying anymore. How do you get the stand to stay on the base?

If the problem is keeping the VCX on the stand, here's what I did.

If the problem is keeping the tripod and the base together, I'm not sure -- mine stays put, mostly.

It actually stands much better on a normal large ship peg.

It's usually the stand coming off the base. I tried normal large ship pegs, but it falls over backward.

I'm not good at modding, but I was hoping there would be some custom standpiece with a wider base or magnets or something. I've Googled to no avail, but perhaps the wrong words?

If you've got nice tight fitting pegs a normal large base should work fine.

My Ghost's "Peg" had the same problem.

I ended up using some LEGO and some super glue. Works like a charm.

A circular flat piece on the center, "Peg Holder" part, of the base is exactly the right size to allow pilot cards to pass over it.

Then, a flat topped circular piece under the "Peg" to connect to the LEGO on the base.

Make sure they are lined up correctly, otherwise you'll be flying at an angle. I'll grab some pictures later if I remember.

contact FFG and let them know. They are pretty good about sending replacements for bad bases/pegs.

So it sounds like your issue is between the stand and the base. In that case, super easy solution. Take a 1'' x 1'' piece of saran wrap, place it under your cardboard, slide the cardboard over top, which locks it in place, and then it ends up providing just enough extra thickness that the stand makes a secure connection. I did this to my Kanan base and left the cardboard in for about a year without any issues.

The plastic wrap solution should do the trick, esp. if you're not the modding type.

I Love the ship. I really dislike the model! I have issues with the scale, but mainly, it is too big! FFG isn't going to change the model, so I felt I had to magnetize mine.

Standard large ship peg seems to work quite well for me. The ship's center of weight is more towards the back when you use it but the base is large enough to be stable despite of that, unless you nudge it backwards (not really much of an issue though). As a bonus, VCX looks a bit more dynamic that way and you don't need to take the model off the base if it bumps something since it's higher than usual and further from the front of the base.

Depends how far your willing to go for a good stand, But....

there is a very Sturdy option.

I have done this to all my large models, not just the VCX.

First time I held the model I thought.....the Stand is bloody awful !

so I popped the model open, easy to do with some light prising all around the seem of the two halves..

inside there is another lower plate section, like a double hull !

so you don't need to actually do what I did, but once I drilled through both bottom pieces,

I added a plastic tube with supports for the stand to sit through.

you could get away with just drilling a hole up through the bottom where the peg is....was.

the sections inside will support a stand,

now the stand is the important bit.......use an Old Paint Brush !

the reason for this is simple, Paint brushes have an angled taper along its length.

"wider at the bottom and narrow at the top"

drill a hole in the stand for the Large taperd part of the brush handle to slide through until it gets tight on the wider section,

that's your cut off point for the edge of the brush for the bottom of the stand.

and apply the same basic principle to the top.....slide the brush into the model and the taper will get tight,

giving a sturdy base for the model !

I use plastic handle and wooden handle paint brushes for this, a number 6-7 size brush will be a good fit

4 mm hole in the model and 6 mm hole in the stand, When you drill in the stand, make sure it is bang on Central.

as when you drill through, you want an edge to the the hole so it will support the brush handle.

" you can see the taper in the brush working here on a custom firespray i'm building, gets the model up high but sturdy "

if you drill of or to wide, you will lose the support for the brush, as your using the bevel peg in the base as part of the stand support.

you will see what I mean when you come to drill out the base, start small when drilling, 2mm then 4mm and finaly 6mm.

"this is metric so not sure what this would be in......here in the UK we call Imperial "

Moving the stand hole to the centre of the model also allows for you to add cargo pods if you want,

I scratch built mine

All of my Large models are now Based in the way,

You can make them higher so they are above other ship models.....no crashing on the table !

and sturdy at the same time.

And because the stand is bevelled, you can un-slide the stand from the model and the base.

allowing for easy storage.

Just another example of how to make your models a bit more sturdy on the gaming table.

All the best,

Barry,

On 4/13/2017 at 4:24 PM, Barry Harker said:

Depends how far your willing to go for a good stand, But....

there is a very Sturdy option.

I have done this to all my large models, not just the VCX.

First time I held the model I thought.....the Stand is bloody awful !

so I popped the model open, easy to do with some light prising all around the seem of the two halves..

inside there is another lower plate section, like a double hull !

so you don't need to actually do what I did, but once I drilled through both bottom pieces,

I added a plastic tube with supports for the stand to sit through.

you could get away with just drilling a hole up through the bottom where the peg is....was.

the sections inside will support a stand,

now the stand is the important bit.......use an Old Paint Brush !

the reason for this is simple, Paint brushes have an angled taper along its length.

"wider at the bottom and narrow at the top"

drill a hole in the stand for the Large taperd part of the brush handle to slide through until it gets tight on the wider section,

that's your cut off point for the edge of the brush for the bottom of the stand.

and apply the same basic principle to the top.....slide the brush into the model and the taper will get tight,

giving a sturdy base for the model !

I use plastic handle and wooden handle paint brushes for this, a number 6-7 size brush will be a good fit

4 mm hole in the model and 6 mm hole in the stand, When you drill in the stand, make sure it is bang on Central.

as when you drill through, you want an edge to the the hole so it will support the brush handle.

" you can see the taper in the brush working here on a custom firespray i'm building, gets the model up high but sturdy "

if you drill of or to wide, you will lose the support for the brush, as your using the bevel peg in the base as part of the stand support.

you will see what I mean when you come to drill out the base, start small when drilling, 2mm then 4mm and finaly 6mm.

"this is metric so not sure what this would be in......here in the UK we call Imperial "

Moving the stand hole to the centre of the model also allows for you to add cargo pods if you want,

I scratch built mine

All of my Large models are now Based in the way,

You can make them higher so they are above other ship models.....no crashing on the table !

and sturdy at the same time.

And because the stand is bevelled, you can un-slide the stand from the model and the base.

allowing for easy storage.

Just another example of how to make your models a bit more sturdy on the gaming table.

All the best,

Barry,

one quick question, roughly how thick is the lower section of Hull?

i'm asking as i'm going to magnetize my Ghost with 3 magnets but dont want to put the rear ones on the outer hull. the front one i can live with!.

The Plastic is about 2mm in thickness.

The distance between the two pieces of the lower hull is around 10 - 12mm

It's a very sturdy model actually.

Other than that bloody stand !

My solution:

i'm tempted to crack this bad boy out on mine soon enough! lol.

i'm gonna hide some magnets in the top hull as well so i can stick minifigs to the top without fear of them being spaced

10 hours ago, Koing907 said:

My solution:

You beat me to it!

I re-appropriated a Ghost (looks like its the same one that you have here) from my son (he gave me permission) that I haven't had a chance to paint. Normally doing something like this would be for laughs, but the Ghost is SO unwieldy, that I don't enjoy having to field the actual model. I love the ship, what it can do and how it can be kitted out, but when the ship models take up more real estate than the base, it is a real problem.

1 hour ago, Force Majeure said:

You beat me to it!

I re-appropriated a Ghost (looks like its the same one that you have here) from my son (he gave me permission) that I haven't had a chance to paint. Normally doing something like this would be for laughs, but the Ghost is SO unwieldy, that I don't enjoy having to field the actual model. I love the ship, what it can do and how it can be kitted out, but when the ship models take up more real estate than the base, it is a real problem.

The Ghost I used was from the Micro Machines pack. Drilling out the existing hole to fit a large peg was fairly easy. I then gave it a couple of washes. The plastic out of the box is pretty gloss, and the washes beaded up, but it's ok for a "joke". I do intend to actually use it on the table as a proxy though.

On 4/24/2017 at 1:01 AM, taulover55 said:

i'm tempted to crack this bad boy out on mine soon enough! lol.

i'm gonna hide some magnets in the top hull as well so i can stick minifigs to the top without fear of them being spaced

Flew that in a month long league a few months ago. I glued a magnet to a lego piece on the bottom and stuck it onto one of my magnetized posts. It would rotate around on occasion, but it never had a problem with falling off and messing up nearby ships.

I also coincidentally won every match where I used the LEGO ghost and lost every one with the FFG ghost, so I'm thinking it was a good luck charm.