2 hours ago, Elrad said:

Hey there,

I have one question regarding a thing that I ignore if Runewar will have : transfers... Do you think they will have some ? To me I have never been able to apply a transfer on a mini, never felt at ease with it and my previous gameworkshop stealer didn't help me a lot : just giving me three steps with a bunch of citadel paints or I don't know what and that's it. Does someone use those transfers ? Because I've got an entire collection of nerver used transfers hidden in a wooden chest with the inscription "Vade retro satanas" written on it burried deep down in my garden .

I think if I had to do an insignia on the Daqan shields I'd probably try to make a template by using a scalpel on an old cereal box.

55 minutes ago, Muz333 said:

I think if I had to do an insignia on the Daqan shields I'd probably try to make a template by using a scalpel on an old cereal box.

and then gluing it on te minis ?

16 minutes ago, Elrad said:

and then gluing it on te minis ?

Tape it in place and then paint within the template/stencil to get a clean pattern. I've never done that before but it sounds possible.

One more company that sells basing stuff ist Green Stuff World , under Basing Materials you find your standard basing stuff and cork, as sheets or grits (you might want to check your art store if you can get it cheaper), and natural leaf (as I said go out and take a look) and leaf punchers with which you can punch out leafs from real dried leafs, never used those but the idea sounds interesting. Under Hobby Accessories you can find stuff like crystals , skulls , sandbags , bricks and wooden boxes .

14 minutes ago, Iceeagle85 said:

One more company that sells basing stuff ist Green Stuff World , under Basing Materials you find your standard basing stuff and cork, as sheets or grits (you might want to check your art store if you can get it cheaper), and natural leaf (as I said go out and take a look) and leaf punchers with which you can punch out leafs from real dried leafs, never used those but the idea sounds interesting. Under Hobby Accessories you can find stuff like crystals , skulls , sandbags , bricks and wooden boxes .

Thank you my friend

Some good video references I've bookmarked:

https://www.youtube.com/user/SchnauzerFaceMinis - Great painting and basing in general

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLX1fXqW4h5RRcMWPdKQaOoskc-XsyeV9Z - Lots of basing tutorials

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCmx6jVF6f2g0VMqWXU2fY2KivKcrCHWD - some great tutorials

https://www.youtube.com/user/Alanduin1/videos - decent videos of painting minis

Hey guys, thanks again for all this valuable info.

@drkpnthr I've watched some of the videos you posted and by watching "neighboring" videos on youtube, i found a tutorial about airbrush painting . But the guy in the video is using a fiarly big model to make his tutorial... Would it be possible with our 32mm runewars mini to fully paint them with an airbrush ? I mean, they are good little skeliez (yes @jek and @Muz333 , I delved into that fashion writing too ^^) or humanz (for the others, please forget about me saying semi-private jokes in public posts...). They are tiny minis not huge megazords or Gundman mechas... I saw a guy painting a dark angel by both airbrushing and "traditional" brushing, so I'm wondering... just to figure it out. I saw Vallejo had quite a few airbrush paints but sadly it's nearly a panzers gamma colors so...not very attractive for fantasy minis...or am I wrong ? Do you need to use exclusively airbrush paints or can you use like citadel paints ?

Yes you can use airbrush on smaller models Angel Giraldez , who paints most of the Infinity miniatures, uses both airbrush and normal brush on his Infinity miniatures. And i heard normal paint can be thinned down for airbrush use but it is better to use a airbrush paint so not to clog the airbrush but that's just what i have heard, i never used an airbrush.

I can pass a link to a painting manual of more than 700 pages but it is in Spanish

It's really a matter of preference and what airbrush you use. With huge models it can get daunting to finish well without using airbrushing. I prefer a mixture of the two. I use airbrushing for my primers, base coats, and primary colors, then switch to paintbrush for harder details, but switch back for soft details, and then varnish and dry brush by hand.

Hard details may include belt buckles, eyes, gemstones, runes and heraldry. Soft details include hair and cloth highlighting and tones, shading, lighting effects, and the occasional blood effect.

You can do all of that with airbrushing or by hand, it's just preference. If you plan to airbrush small minis, I recommend a small tip (0.2mm or less), cup feed so you can adjust and mix as you paint, a dual-action trigger so you can regulate flow, and a dual chambered air pump with moisture trap to keep continuous pressure as you paint and prevent spotting or clumping. And always stop to clean your airbrush thoroughly when you finish.

16 minutes ago, maul said:

I can pass a link to a painting manual of more than 700 pages but it is in Spanish

No problemo para mi. Los diccionarios no son alli solo para mirar a ellos... no se si me hago entender bien.... pero si, puedes darnos tu enlace (este palabra esta justa ?)

2 hours ago, Elrad said:

No hay problema para mi. Los Diccionarios ningún hijo alli solo para Mirar a Ellos ... no se si me hago entendre bien .... Pero si, PUEDES Darnos tu enlace (this this palabra justa?)

Message sent

Erf... I'm a looser but I'd like to know how you do keep your brushes safe. I mean, citadel brushes tha I have come with a plastic tube that's supposed to fit the brush hair width to protect it from any shock... But, with time (and even at the beginning), it becomes hard to insert the tube without damaging the hair... to be honest, I sometimes get a brush hair to be bent because the tube did trap it when being put on. So I wanted to know if there are other more conveninent and practical ways to protect your beloved (sometimes expensive) brushes from apparently bad protections and sometimes tired and then uncautious wanabe painters (I'm spotted here)

I use the plastic tubes, after cleaning just try to shape the brush bakc in its original shape and slide the tube on carefully, if you bend something remove the tube and reshape the brush before trying to put it on again. That is how i do it.

After you clean the brush, roll the brush in the palm of your hand (gently) while pulling the brush backwards (slowly)...it will point the brush making it easier to slip into the tube. Store them in a cup bristles up and you're good to go

I use the airbrush to define the model. Hold the model upside down and shoot it with black from almost directly below. don’t move the model and don’t try for coverage. just a single shot of black. Flip the model right side up and pick a point from less than 20 degrees from directly above and shoot with white. Then cover the whole model with your base color. What this doses is give you the shadows and highlights of the model without painting three shades of the color. You get a lot of definition quickly and let the spray pattern guide you to where the color flows.

For regular brushes buy and use brush soap and store your brushes horizontally not vertical. The allows the brush to hold its shape. The bristles all droop in one direction instead of away from each other. Never let the paint get all the way up to the metal feral. Its almost impossible to fully clean them at that point. clean and repoint your brush often during your paint session. Don’t use a regular brush for dry brushing. Don’t use a flat brush to edge detail.

Buy a bag of dollar store army men (I can get 50 figures for 4.00) to practice techniques and test color schemes.

I also work on a half inch thick plate of glass that covers my workbench. This works great for gluing and painting. the entire surface is my pallet, I can mix and blend as needed and any part or glue is removed with a glass scraper giving me back a perfectly smooth surface every time.

thanks for your advice. I'll have a try tomorrow (GMT+01 for me) and will look for those cheap plastic toys for trying my paints... thanks again

Have fun then.

I have an old wooden artist's case that has been passed down in my family that sits on my workbench, and I use it to hold all of my brushes and hobby tools. I have my brushes sorted into smaller containers within it by function and quality. One has my detail brushes, one my general use brushes, one has my large area brushes, and the last has my dry brushes of different sizes. I also have a container below the desk for cheap throwaway dollar-store brushes for glues and basing material and flocking application and another for huge art brushes (in case I need to do some large scale stuff like painting terrain).

Thanks again to all.

And now, welcome to the Monday's edition of your favorite (or not) show : "the Elrad'spainting question".

I've read on the web (but it is a post dating from 2013) that Vallejo's game paints are not as good as the model range. Has it changed with the years ?

I've read that Army painter are a bit under Vallejo and so on.

Also, My citadel pots do act strangely : I have not used them for a while and now they have all the liquid on the surface and the rest of the paint is quite creamy just below...any idea how to fix it ?

Thanks again.

You need to get a stirring stick (preferably something that is easy to clean, but won't chip off glass or plastic pieces into your paint), and stir your paints, then put the lid back on and shake thoroughly before use. That keeps the oils from separating from the pigments, which is probably what has happened in your paint. Be careful not to drop completely dry flakes back into the paint, clean them off carefully, it will cause clumping. If the paint grows thicker with time, you may need to add some oil to the jar to keep it from hardening up, but make sure you match whatever they used in the paint to keep oil from pooling and pigments from clumping. It also helps to make sure to water or oil down your paints a bit (especially with airbrushing!) before you paint in a separate container or tray with older paints (I recommend doing this all the time).

thanks for all your good advices @drkpnthr I hope I can save most of my 2011/12 pots (and there are quite a collection...)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6I0kNEQA2pk - Decent tutorial for acrylics, good channel with some nice painting tips

On 19/2/2017 at 11:35 AM, maul said:

On 19/2/2017 at 8:34 AM, maul said:

I can pass a link to a painting manual of more than 700 pages but it is in Spanish

Hola! yo no tengo problemas con el español XD... me lo podrías mandar por favor?

7 hours ago, Elrad said:

Thanks again to all.

And now, welcome to the Monday's edition of your favorite (or not) show : "the Elrad'spainting question".

I've read on the web (but it is a post dating from 2013) that Vallejo's game paints are not as good as the model range. Has it changed with the years ?

I've read that Army painter are a bit under Vallejo and so on.

Also, My citadel pots do act strangely : I have not used them for a while and now they have all the liquid on the surface and the rest of the paint is quite creamy just below...any idea how to fix it ?

Thanks again.

1) Depends on the Paints themselves. Some are good. Some are bad. This is not a Vallejo issue. This is a Paints issue. Sometimes its Pigment, sometimes its Damage in Delivery (as I have in Calgary sometimes, where the paint is left outside to freeze before being thawed in store).

2) Much the same as above. I have personally had issues with AP, but that being said, I know plenty of people who have not ... So again, its a personal thing.

3) Paint Separation happens with all paints, its just more apparent in the Citadel pots as you can look down into them - the Squeeze-bottles of Vallejo and such tend to physically hide it... But all paints should be Mixed, stirred, and shaken like hell before use. Be Nice to your Brushes, Abuse the Crap out of your Paints.