Organized Play - Custom Bases

By Oloh, in Star Wars: Imperial Assault

Sorry for reposting, but I posted in the organized play forum but that mostly seems to be about events. Assuming I keep the exact same size base, are folks generally allowed to use like a secret weapon base or other custom basing option on their Organized Play tournament minis? Do players generally get disqualified in organized play for ditching the rather poor bases in favor of either a lipped base or a 40k style base of the same size?



Sorry if this has been posed before. I searched a few keywords, but nothing came up. I also searched in the rule book and it says you aren't allowed to change the size or shape of the bases, but assuming you stick with, say, a 25mm circle for a small figure, is that generally OK?


I know I wouldn't care one bit, you really should ask your tournament organizer though, they're the ones that matter. Most of my stuff is painted because it looks better to me. I try to keep all the bases similar to match whether I'm inside or outside.

A lot of people re-base their figures. I could only see someone reasonably disqualifying you from a tournament if your figures bases were way off from the 25mm that they should be.

As long as it's the same size and not confusing in any way then it's perfectly fine.

Official rules say this "• Players cannot modify model bases to alter their size or shape."

Tournament marshal has final say on component legality.

So as long as you stick to 25mm round you should be fine.
Technically it might be hard to find matching bases for the larger stuff (especially massive figures), but it would have to be a real prick of a tournament organizer to make a fuss about it.

Bike or cavalry bases should be fine for the 2 square size stuff and 50mm round should be fine for the 4 square size stuff. The 6 square stuff might need some custom MDF base or something to make sure it's clear.

It's pretty clear in the Tournament Regulations:

Players are welcome and encouraged to personalize their models according to the following rules:

• Players may paint their models. They cannot modify a model in any way that would create

confusion about which unit the model represents.

• Players cannot modify model bases to alter their size or shape.

Keep it the same size and shape and you are fine. I don't think anyone would have any issue with stuff on the top, just keep it to a 25mm/1" circle for small bases, and so on.

Thanks folks. I assumed as much, but I've never been in a tournament and figured I would ask before spending the time and energy on replacing very mundane looking bases. Wasn't sure how much "shape" meant beveled edge, height, etc.

Pretty much shape = "round" as far as I can tell. I don't think any reasonable TO is going to have a problem with that. I have had my clear based figures at worlds for two years running.

Pretty much shape = "round" as far as I can tell. I don't think any reasonable TO is going to have a problem with that. I have had my clear based figures at worlds for two years running.

Crap. I forgot to disqualify you back in November. My bad.

I'll get you next year!!!! *shakes fist at the sky*

Edited by RogueLieutenant

You can disqualify me in November. Just let me be in May. ;)

I also have rebased all my painted models to Litko clear acrylic bases. the only thing i kept to was general size, 25 stayed 25mm, 25x50 stayed at 25x50. I have not been 'told off' or disqualified from any tourney, in fact the people running one championship said, 'oh wow, they look cool, i like the clear bases' or words to that effect.

if you were to put a probe droid on a 50x75 (massive) base then people might have issues with it.

Collins, can you suggest any special techniques to remove the figure from the original base other than being careful, patience, a sharp knife, and a steady hand?

Edited by Slugrage

I usually fully paint and matt varnish my models first, making sure to leave plenty of time for the paints/varnish to full dry/cure.

I then take normal modelling clippers like these and carefully clip around the base making it smaller down the the feet. This will leave me with just the feet and about 3mm of base extending below.

I then very slowly and carefully shave off the extra bits below the feet (old base) using a scalpel like this with a no26 or 22 blade. It is important not to try and do it in one chunk, you risk cutting the feet or your fingers/thumb.

When i have shaved enough off i score a hash or criss cross pattern on the bottom of the feet. I then marry up the feet to a new acrylic base and score a similar pattern on that where the feet will meet the base. It is important to do this to make the superglue bond much stronger.

I use a very small amount of superglue, it stops 'frosting' and over spill around the feet.

Some people will like to use files, i personally don't, a super sharp knife and a slow shaving technique works better for me, i feel i have more control.

Fresh blades are key to making it easy.

one last thing. with models like the royal guards where the 'footprint' of the model is much larger than normal feet it might be worth removing them from the base before painting as i found it very difficult to do after painting without ruining the paint job.

not that i really care, but this game uses the squares, so as long as the base fits within the squares it really shouldn't make a difference, bigger or smaller. Hell, if your bases were square and matched the size of the game board tiles i'd have zero issues with it, even if i was organizing or running a tournament

same goes for the larger bases, such as Jabba, as a 2x2, E-web as a 1x2, or the massive figures as a 3x2

if you aren't overlapping onto opposing squares then it will have zero effect on the gameplay.

I usually fully paint and matt varnish my models first, making sure to leave plenty of time for the paints/varnish to full dry/cure.

... <snip>

Cool! Thanks for the summary!