Does Shapeways not send to outside the US?

Well, considering last time I ordered from Shapways, they were cast in Finland.... >.>

Well, that answers that.

Not gonna lie: the fact that I'm right next to their NYC office is awesome. I've been tempted to just go across the river to pick up stuff I order - but I'm lazy.

Is the standard (cheapest) type from shapeways really poor quality? The frosted stuff is pretty expensive!

Yes and No.

The White/Black Strong and Flexible is..... Worrysome and Inconsistent.

Some days, its layered the right way, and its properly scrubbed, and you get a semi-nice piece that has lost a little bit of detail, but is otherwise okay.

But some days, its layered the wrong way, and yo have biting striations that are effectively a matted surface that picks up EVERYTHING and is impossible to paint because the texture actually shreds paint brushes, and is so deep that a filling primer won't fill it...

Whereas the Frosted Details are done with a completely different method, which doesn't leave striations... They're not without their own problems, but those problems are MUCH rarer, and MUCH easier to deal with (in the case that, you can't, so you get a free replacement)....

Better than everything, is the Acrylic, when its available. Get that if you can. Its a little cheaper than the Frosted, but gives you a nice surface, and just-as-good-if-not-better detail, without the powdery feel.

So I started thinking about mixing up my own paints using my minitaire line of paints, but I want to avoid wasting any while I do my pouring. I've been using eyedroppers but its tedious as hell. Does anyone have any idea of what kind of beaker-like vessel I can use that might be really hydrophobic? something that I can easily measure out paints and pour into bottles?

I hesitate to user NeverWet or any kind of coating because of the residue I've heard it leaves behind.

Yes and No.

The White/Black Strong and Flexible is..... Worrysome and Inconsistent.

Some days, its layered the right way, and its properly scrubbed, and you get a semi-nice piece that has lost a little bit of detail, but is otherwise okay.

But some days, its layered the wrong way, and yo have biting striations that are effectively a matted surface that picks up EVERYTHING and is impossible to paint because the texture actually shreds paint brushes, and is so deep that a filling primer won't fill it...

Whereas the Frosted Details are done with a completely different method, which doesn't leave striations... They're not without their own problems, but those problems are MUCH rarer, and MUCH easier to deal with (in the case that, you can't, so you get a free replacement)....

Better than everything, is the Acrylic, when its available. Get that if you can. Its a little cheaper than the Frosted, but gives you a nice surface, and just-as-good-if-not-better detail, without the powdery feel.

Thanks Dras!

Tonight was all about the republic.

Those are very nice. Love to see both Pelta models used in tournament play.

This post brought to you by "I don't have a problem, you have a problem"

Current Empire ships

Corporate Sector Authority

Rebellion

New Republic (Ignore the Dreadnought, that's for the Old Republic)

Old Republic

Mining Guild

I believe the problem is you are not painting nearly fast enough.

5 hours ago, Darthain said:

I believe the problem is you are not painting nearly fast enough.

I think that's the problem we ALL have!

I though I was nearly done with only 1 DSI, 1 DSV, 1 Liberty , 1 Mk II plus squadrons to go, and 4 Mc30, 1 Home one, 1 pelta, 3 Nebulon B, 2 DR90, 3 DSG from FFG plus 1Acclamator, 1 Mon Remonda, 1 Keldalbe FUD and 1 Executor WSF from Mel were added...

I am Weak

In all seriousness, I actually have run into a problem when it comes to using nuln oil that I could use some assistance on. I've found that I get large swaths of hull panel that get easily stained before the lines between the panels get exposed to the nuln oil. I feel like this might be a surface-area to surface-tension issue, but I can't know for certain. Does anyone have a particular technique when it comes to doing washes for ships with panel lines specifically?

1 hour ago, FoaS said:

In all seriousness, I actually have run into a problem when it comes to using nuln oil that I could use some assistance on. I've found that I get large swaths of hull panel that get easily stained before the lines between the panels get exposed to the nuln oil. I feel like this might be a surface-area to surface-tension issue, but I can't know for certain. Does anyone have a particular technique when it comes to doing washes for ships with panel lines specifically?

Nothing helpful, I've stopped using washes for panel lines. Lately I've been applying my base coat 1-2 shares darker (mixing with black paint), them painting straight base panels on that. This was to get around base coating, washing, then Touching up all the Panels with base coat anyway (I don't like the stained wash surface look, it's sloppy). Remove a step, remove a problem.

2 hours ago, FoaS said:

In all seriousness, I actually have run into a problem when it comes to using nuln oil that I could use some assistance on. I've found that I get large swaths of hull panel that get easily stained before the lines between the panels get exposed to the nuln oil. I feel like this might be a surface-area to surface-tension issue, but I can't know for certain. Does anyone have a particular technique when it comes to doing washes for ships with panel lines specifically?

Its exactly what it is.

Don't use the stuff straight.

I drop it down with Medium, and if I *really* want it flowing, I mix a larger batch up with a drop or two of dish soap.

Then really focus on just line-washing with a thin, long brush.

I will have to give that a try.

I don't think I'll redo the republic ship. I like how dirty they came out - makes them look old a battered, which is exactly what I want for several generations old ships.

7 minutes ago, Drasnighta said:

Its exactly what it is.

Don't use the stuff straight.

I drop it down with Medium, and if I *really* want it flowing, I mix a larger batch up with a drop or two of dish soap.

Then really focus on just line-washing with a thin, long brush.

Not sure what you use for dish soap, but mine has a habbit of causing inks to drop out and solidify. Flow enhancer/aid works too.

5 minutes ago, Darthain said:

Not sure what you use for dish soap, but mine has a habbit of causing inks to drop out and solidify. Flow enhancer/aid works too.

I'd love to use a proper flow enhanced, but my local painting store closed down and Michaels hasn't restocked it in forever.

13 minutes ago, Drasnighta said:

I'd love to use a proper flow enhanced, but my local painting store closed down and Michaels hasn't restocked it in forever.

That bites, worthy of a talk with your local MP, if only to really confuse them.

Once again: I am tempted to send Dras a care package.

I have to say that is a fantastic paint job on the Old Republic stuff @FoaS , truly top-notch work. The Pelta's and the Venator are staggeringly good. At the risk of losing my Star Wars Nerd Card, what are the other ships with the Gladiator in the Mining Guild formation? I don't recognize them.

P.S. I'm going to recommend to a friend that mod you made with the Assault Frigate's wings on an MC30 to a friend. Very clever. @Myrmecology

Don't worry, you're not losing your Star Wars Nerd Cred over them

They're from Firestorm Armada, not Star Wars

The mining guild ships are from Firestorm Armada - the Rense System Navy specifically: http://shop.spartangames.co.uk/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FAZR22

The assault frigate wings modded onto the MC30 is not my idea - props for that goes to @Vykes - I just liked how it looked and made my own. (related: the kitbash of the Neb-B was originally 503s)

Not star wars, but I had some fun with some models from my own Shapeways Shop.

Hey @melminiatures - do you have any experience with the "Professional Plastic" material?

One of the things that I noticed with the FUD (obviously now known as Fine Detail Plastic) is that there was a lot of roughness where the material was supported by the wax (A known artifact of the process of course). Given the complex geometry of something like a Constitution-class federation ship, there is a lot of need for supports and I'm trying to minimize that roughness.

I tried it when it was called HP Nylon or something like that. I found it too similar to Black Strong and Flexible (aka. Black Versatile Plastic).