Did me first modification on an X-Wing miniature. I choose my favorite ship, the Millenium Falcon. On the web i saw some very nice modifications on bringing the engine to life by add some LED lights. I wanted more - i also wanted the cockpit to be illuminated. See the result on the pictures.
Actually i'm not yet totally happy with the re-painted windows truss. Still needs improvements...
I'll try to post some pictures of the modfication process as follow up.
Love the concept. Getting the lines straight is going to be a challenge. Is the window basically an acrylic sheet cut to size and bent to make the curve? Hmm... if that's the case, painting the trusses while the sheet is flat and prior to cutting would probably be simplest. Or instead of painting, using a permanent marker.
Maybe someone can laser etch/engrave the trusses?
Good idea. Will think about that. Thanks.
That is cool. I have an LED schematic for anyone learning this. Important note - you MUST use a resistor with an LED or you'll nuke it.
That is cool. I have an LED schematic for anyone learning this. Important note - you MUST use a resistor with an LED or you'll nuke it.
While normally true, it's not universal. For example, CR2032 batteries are 3V. If you're using a white LED that requires 3V, you do NOT need a resistor. Now if you're using a blue LED that only requires 2V, then yes, you need a resistor (specifically, a 50ohm resistor)...
For the cockpit you could take a silicone mold of an unmodified model and make an acrylic cast of that part. Cut and glue to fit after painting all non-window parts. (Led mounted behind the acrylic cast)
You could smash form a replacement canopy. Checkout a local hobby shop dealing with Radio Control models. They usually carry a plastic made for vacuum forming. Cut a piece about 3/4" larger than you need and mount it in a small basswood frame. Heat it up over a toaster and use oven mitts! When the plastic starts to sag, take it and force it down over the the cockpit. There's your replacement glass. The plastic will stretch out and you'll have a thin, clear cockpit glass. The glass will be about .003" larger than the diameter of the cockpit due to the thickness of the plastic. Get the thinnest plastic available.
If your not happy with the framing, there's an old modeling trick that works well. Cut thin strips of regular paper the width of the frames. Saturate them with super glue. When the glue hardens cut the paper to length and your good. You can prepaint the frames before installing and touch up later. For the framework on the front of the cockpit use a stencil knife after drawing it out with a compass.
Edited by Stoneface
That is cool. I have an LED schematic for anyone learning this. Important note - you MUST use a resistor with an LED or you'll nuke it.
While normally true, it's not universal. For example, CR2032 batteries are 3V. If you're using a white LED that requires 3V, you do NOT need a resistor. Now if you're using a blue LED that only requires 2V, then yes, you need a resistor (specifically, a 50ohm resistor)...
what about CR-90 batteries, or YT-1300s?
That is cool. I have an LED schematic for anyone learning this. Important note - you MUST use a resistor with an LED or you'll nuke it.
While normally true, it's not universal. For example, CR2032 batteries are 3V. If you're using a white LED that requires 3V, you do NOT need a resistor. Now if you're using a blue LED that only requires 2V, then yes, you need a resistor (specifically, a 50ohm resistor)...
what about CR-90 batteries, or YT-1300s?
It all depends on the source voltage and the LED voltage. Normally you'll need a resistor because the two will not align, but since several popular LEDs are 3V, and a common battery for models is the CR2032, you would not need a resistor in that instance.
reworked the cockpit window...
