Drasnighta's Wet Work

By Drasnighta, in Star Wars: Armada Painting and Modification

ALSO.

I believe I owe someone this:

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Still a WIP! But going!

Edit: Shifted to a new thread.

Although any tips you have for dark base coats is very welcome. Snipa suggested an intermediate brown coat to allow colour to stick a bit more.

Edited by Ginkapo
5 hours ago, Ginkapo said:

Edit: Shifted to a new thread.

Although any tips you have for dark base coats is very welcome. Snipa suggested an intermediate brown coat to allow colour to stick a bit more.

It does depend on the colours being used and the desires of that colore.

if your paint has weaker pigments (reds, yellows and such similar tones generally fall into that) then black as a base coat can totally be a hinderance as it doesn’t give the pigment much chance.

Certainly in that circumstance, a brown or darker-than-desired intermediary coat can do wonders to make things more vibrant.

Fir example , orange on vblack is a recipe for disaster.... but step it up through brown and red you’ll have s much better time of it.

(Shows client picture of MC75 in CIS paint scheme)

Client: "Well, if you're free anytime after Winnipeg... With Rebel Symbols instead of CIS of course..."

Me: "Do you want one for Winnipeg?" (Which is this weekend)

Client: "Can it happen that fast?"

Me: "Let me drink 3 cans of Monster and get back to you....

:: 20 minutes Later::

28279759_583814321960972_746204633596874

I'm pretty sure the mc75 is the first ship to have rebel symbols as part of the plastic too. (top aft)

2 hours ago, CenterPoint said:

I'm pretty sure the mc75 is the first ship to have rebel symbols as part of the plastic too. (top aft)

Post pics of your Profundity (I already forgot the name you gave it)!!!

33 minutes ago, Thraug said:

Post pics of your Profundity (I already forgot the name you gave it)!!!

not to hijack - but I did. it's on page 1 of the all welcome painting thread

12 hours ago, Drasnighta said:

(Shows client picture of MC75 in CIS paint scheme)

Client: "Well, if you're free anytime after Winnipeg... With Rebel Symbols instead of CIS of course..."

Me: "Do you want one for Winnipeg?" (Which is this weekend)

Client: "Can it happen that fast?"

Me: "Let me drink 3 cans of Monster and get back to you....

:: 20 minutes Later::

28279759_583814321960972_746204633596874

You did that free hand? Or are those tiny little decals? If they are decals, where can I get them? And if you did it free hand, how did you hold your hands that steady with three cans of monster???

12 hours ago, Drasnighta said:

(Shows client picture of MC75 in CIS paint scheme)

Client: "Well, if you're free anytime after Winnipeg... With Rebel Symbols instead of CIS of course..."

Me: "Do you want one for Winnipeg?" (Which is this weekend)

Client: "Can it happen that fast?"

Me: "Let me drink 3 cans of Monster and get back to you....

:: 20 minutes Later::

28279759_583814321960972_746204633596874

I like that look nice and eye catching.

5 minutes ago, Tiberius the Killer said:

You did that free hand? Or are those tiny little decals? If they are decals, where can I get them? And if you did it free hand, how did you hold your hands that steady with three cans of monster???

Free hand ?

Dot it out. Wrists together. Slowly paint lines. Spend 15 minutes touching and retouching with white and blue ??

Since your earlier pictures are lost to the ravages of Photobucket subscription, I'd like to ask your advice on paint selection.

I'm overpainting a fleet of CR90s and want to obliterate the original red details on them and colour back to as close to the beige base coat as possible, so I can then add in different colour details over the top and on different parts of the model. I don't want to repaint the whole model, just the colour accents.

I've picked up a few Vallejo Game Colour and Model Colour bottles to do the new accents. I also have Vallejo Surface Primer in Grey to overpaint the red.

  1. The grey primer does an OK job of obliterating the red, but only with 2-3 (diluted) coats. Is there a better option?
  2. What colour would you recommend to match the beige/bone of the original CR90?
  3. I have a nuln oil. Would that be ok to match the original panel lining and dirtying on the overpainted sections?

Thanks in advance for any help. :D

While I will absolutely defer to Dras' experience, You are going to want a bone white rather than a true white to match the white of the original. For your wash I recommend the earthshade over the nulin on rebel ships, or at least a mix of the two.

On 2/26/2018 at 12:17 AM, Drasnighta said:

(Shows client picture of MC75 in CIS paint scheme)

Client: "Well, if you're free anytime after Winnipeg... With Rebel Symbols instead of CIS of course..."

Me: "Do you want one for Winnipeg?" (Which is this weekend)

Client: "Can it happen that fast?"

Me: "Let me drink 3 cans of Monster and get back to you....

:: 20 minutes Later::

28279759_583814321960972_746204633596874

This would even please Snoke.

1) If you are trying to cover up the red colour with primer completely.... stop.

That is not what primer is for.

Put a layer on. Transparent is fine - just get a layer on and stop.

Your Surface is now PRIMED to receive your base coat.

Your better option - is your base coat. ?

2) For my base coats to match the beige, I go with Vallejo Model Colour “Ivory”. Two coats over basic primer and done.

Some people swear by Vallejo Deck Tan, but I find after Agrax it’s too dark.

Deck Tan -> Ivory -> Off White

3) Agrax Earthshadr in. 2:1 Water:Wash mix tints it all down to the nice beige and done.

It’s entireky possible I am inheriting an older laptop in April.

although it is 5+ years old, it was an absolutely top of the line Alienware in its day...

... so if I can swing just a little more income I can invest in a better webcam and not only post painting videos, but recorded games...

This might work...

... might...

On 19/03/2018 at 7:38 PM, Drasnighta said:

1) If you are trying to cover up the red colour with primer completely.... stop.

That is not what primer is for.

Put a layer on. Transparent is fine - just get a layer on and stop.

Your Surface is now PRIMED to receive your base coat.

Your better option - is your base coat. ?

2) For my base coats to match the beige, I go with Vallejo Model Colour “Ivory”. Two coats over basic primer and done.

Some people swear by Vallejo Deck Tan, but I find after Agrax it’s too dark.

Deck Tan -> Ivory -> Off White

3) Agrax Earthshadr in. 2:1 Water:Wash mix tints it all down to the nice beige and done.

Thank you! I really appreciate you taking the time to reply, that's very helpful. I'll post pics of my shoddy efforts once they're done.

:)

Edited by ManInTheBox
On 3/21/2018 at 11:03 AM, Drasnighta said:

It’s entireky possible I am inheriting an older laptop in April.

although it is 5+ years old, it was an absolutely top of the line Alienware in its day...

... so if I can swing just a little more income I can invest in a better webcam and not only post painting videos, but recorded games...

This might work...

... might...

Tech moves fast so it might not work that well. Especially a laptop.

3 hours ago, TallGiraffe said:

Tech moves fast so it might not work that well. Especially a laptop.

Its more powerful than my 2 year old PC.

So beyond that, its not like I'm going to get anything better.

Song And Dance: