Just looking for the classic orange and black scheme. The last batch of paint I bought at the hobby store was some generic stuff that has a weird feeling. I used it for my custom Bacta War's Wedge and I think that will be the last time I use it.

Brand and color would be great since everyone knows there are about a million different orange and blacks.

Acrylic's the way to go. The brands I recommend are Ceramcoat and Martha Stewart from craft stores; if you go to a game store I've used Reaper paints and recommend them. If you don't mind giving money to an evil Empire than Games Workshop paint is good too.

One thing: it's HARD to paint orange on black. I recommend doing a medium brown on the orange parts first, then the orange.

Also, get a matte sealant to protect the paint job from fingers afterwards - Modge Podge should be available, and there are good spray sealants from Rust-Oleum.

I am a longtime fan of Vallejo paints.

I used Citadel for mine. Custom mixed the perfect black:

1/2 dawnstone

1/2 leadbelcher (edit)

I drybrushed runefang steel over the whole thing, then put on 2 dark washes of Nuln Oil to achieve a metallic dark dark dark grey. After that, I put down joakero orange (base) for the base of the stripes, then put a layer of troll slayer orange over it. Another light coat of nuln oil and it was almost done.

Engines are super easy: Dot in white base in the engine itself, then put a very small blue or orange glaze in there. It dries almost perfect engine colors.

For the cockpit, I put many layers of their blue glaze over the black base, highlighting it between layers. BB8 was fairly easy, just takes a REALLY small brush and a very steady hand. I touched up all the edges with a micron black pen so they're almost perfectly straight. Lastly I coated the whole thing in a satin semi-gloss finish. It definitely turns heads!

But if you want a much easier way of doing it, you can use black, hand stripe in the orange over it (a couple times, without joakero orange it won't be all that crisp), and use blue for the cockpit.

If you don't like it when its done... trade it to someone for another unpainted one and get more practice until you get one you like!

I used Citadel for mine. Custom mixed the perfect black:

1/2 dawnstone

1/2 leadbelcher (edit)

I drybrushed runefang steel over the whole thing, then put on 2 dark washes of Nuln Oil to achieve a metallic dark dark dark grey. After that, I put down joakero orange (base) for the base of the stripes, then put a layer of troll slayer orange over it. Another light coat of nuln oil and it was almost done.

Engines are super easy: Dot in white base in the engine itself, then put a very small blue or orange glaze in there. It dries almost perfect engine colors.

For the cockpit, I put many layers of their blue glaze over the black base, highlighting it between layers. BB8 was fairly easy, just takes a REALLY small brush and a very steady hand. I touched up all the edges with a micron black pen so they're almost perfectly straight. Lastly I coated the whole thing in a satin semi-gloss finish. It definitely turns heads!

But if you want a much easier way of doing it, you can use black, hand stripe in the orange over it (a couple times, without joakero orange it won't be all that crisp), and use blue for the cockpit.

If you don't like it when its done... trade it to someone for another unpainted one and get more practice until you get one you like!

If you don't like it and haven't varnished it, Purple Power or Simple Green will take it back to original. Easy.

I am a longtime fan of Vallejo paints.

Acrylics dry very quick especially if sprayed. Pick up some Liquitex Slo-dri and Flow Aid. Slows the drying time and makes the paint a little more self leveling.

There's some very good demos on YouTube using acrylics both in an airbrush and standard brush. Look for "Ammo of Mig" or Mig Jimenez.

Ah, custom Poes - almost as unique and original as decloaking Phantoms.

I am a longtime fan of Vallejo paints.

Acrylics dry very quick especially if sprayed. Pick up some Liquitex Slo-dri and Flow Aid. Slows the drying time and makes the paint a little more self leveling.

There's some very good demos on YouTube using acrylics both in an airbrush and standard brush. Look for "Ammo of Mig" or Mig Jimenez.

And a wet palate. Michael's or Hobby Lobby (or other hobby store of choice) have them for pretty cheap. I think I picked mine up, with some paper and a sponge (those come with the WP) for $5-10. Extra paper/sponges are cheap as well.

Ah, custom Poes - almost as unique and original as decloaking Phantoms.

Lol I like to keep them in context of the Star Wars Universe.

I am a longtime fan of Vallejo paints.

Acrylics dry very quick especially if sprayed. Pick up some Liquitex Slo-dri and Flow Aid. Slows the drying time and makes the paint a little more self leveling.

There's some very good demos on YouTube using acrylics both in an airbrush and standard brush. Look for "Ammo of Mig" or Mig Jimenez.

And a wet palate. Michael's or Hobby Lobby (or other hobby store of choice) have them for pretty cheap. I think I picked mine up, with some paper and a sponge (those come with the WP) for $5-10. Extra paper/sponges are cheap as well.

A good alternative for a wet pallet is the bottom piece of plastic from a large ship packaging. Fold a paper towel to fit inside. Use baking paper, the white variety, and you're good to go. Dampen the paper towel and lay a piece of baking paper over it. The paper will absorb some moisture from the paper towel and keep your acrylics from drying out. This is a very cheap way to get into a wet pallet. You can get brown baking paper but may distort the colors. White is the best. The commercial type of wet pallet paper is longer and wider than a normal paper sheet and using the base from say the Slave 1, you might be able to get 6 pieces from one sheet of wet paper. If you want to go the full route, the commercial wet pallets will keep your paints workable longer because some have a closeable lid that prevents evaporation.

Go for a super dark grey instead of ACTUAL black. Looks so much better.

I base coated with black, then a medium grey dry brush followed by a light grey dry brush. After remaining hull details are added, and after applying sealant, wash to taste. (Using ceramcoat paints, I've found the wash actually darkens the other colors if applied before sealing, instead of just applying shadow to recessed areas...)

Edit: autocorrect made this a bit nonsensical.

I also used Games workshop paints for Poe. A base coat of Abaddon Black with the various details picked out in Leadbelcher (a dul silvery colour) and Fiery Orange (a discontinued shade but Jokaero Orange looks a good replacement).

I highlighted the edges by giving them a dry-brush of Codex Grey (Mechanicum standard Grey is the appropriate replacement). Then I gave the whole thing a wash of Nuln Oil to shade it and give the that Star Wars "used universe" feel.

Not a masterpiece but for a quick and simple repaint, I am quite happy with it.