Unfortunately the peg on one of my new Tie's sheared off the yesterday while trying to remove a stuck stand. I've submitted a request to FFG CS, but their online form says they will only replace items if there is a manufacturing defect.

So, if they refuse my request I will need to try to fix it myself and hope I can line it up right. I have some Gorilla Glue, but I am concerned that it may melt the plastic.

Thanks in advance

Any superglue will work just fine.

I like loctite gel myself. (or whatever it's been rebranded to now). Plastic glue/polystyrene cement is also good if it works (Can anyone confirm it works on the plastics used for X-wing models?)

I use Loctite gel super glue for my 40k miniatures, should be fine.

FFG replaced a TIE Interceptor for me a couple of years back when the same thing happened to me. I only asked for a new peg, but they sent me a whole ship. "Tight pegs" are apparently considered one of those manufacturing defects.

I use two types of glue after years of trying different things on minis. I use Zap-a-gap for any type of quick super glue type fixes. It's less brittle than super glue and works great.

I use E-2000 plumber's glue for anything that needs to be really secured. It is more of a gel. This stuff takes a while to dry, but can be a bit moveable when fully done. I do like this sometimes as it allows for some further bend without snapping again. Also, it can cove an area well enough as it's a gel.

I sometimes use both glues as I need something to quickly make it stick, but then let the gel firm up after a bit.

Super glue works fine, I've repaired a handful of ships this way and used it to stick magnets to all my ships.
Just be careful with it. Using too much can get runny and cause the paint to look weird. I did that with one of my Royal Guard squints and it kinda lightened the paint around the cockpit. Looked cool, so I left it that way, but it might not always be so pretty.

I use this, on the recommendation of those on this very forum. It works very well on XWing models and while it doesn't prevent anyone from getting out of a basement, a liberal application means that it is at least a few days before they can tell anyone what happened.

If you're using superglue, try to do it in a well ventilated area otherwise the glue fumes can "frost" the model and ruin the prepaints. Also, if you want to make sure that peg doesn't break again, I'd recommend pinning the 2 pieces together.

I'm partial to cyanoacrylate (superglue) type cements. They make a slower-cure gel formula that doesn't carry the "you have 2 milliseconds to get the position right" terror the thin solution has. For applications requiring space-filling, I like Testor's airplane glue for wooden models (green tube, not the styrene-welding stuff in the red tube). Takes a while to cure but it's very resilient and not brittle. It's also easy to find if your FLGS is more a hobby place than a comic book place.

MonkeyInSpace, on 03 Feb 2016 - 12:09 PM, said:MonkeyInSpace, on 03 Feb 2016 - 12:09 PM, said:

I use this, on the recommendation of those on this very forum. It works very well on XWing models and while it doesn't prevent anyone from getting out of a basement, a liberal application means that it is at least a few days before they can tell anyone what happened.

Also, don't use this glue if you're hoping to restrain an angry midget, it just doesn't work.

I know this might not be relevant to everyone's purchasing decisions, it certainly was to mine.

CA glues from Bob Smith Industries are great. They make a variety from thin through gels and even one that's flexible. They have a slow set that gives you about 12 sec to reposition. I've been using them for about 2 years for various building applications and I really like them.

Edit: Pick up some debonder while youre at it. Just in case.

For snapped pegs, I think the best solution is to drill out the original peg and replace it with a snipped off flight peg superglued into the hole. You wind up with a much stronger connection.

If you're using superglue, try to do it in a well ventilated area otherwise the glue fumes can "frost" the model and ruin the prepaints. Also, if you want to make sure that peg doesn't break again, I'd recommend pinning the 2 pieces together.

Yeah, Superglue can frost over and look bad. Also, it's a bit brittle and will re-break with little pressure. That's why I like Zap-a-Gap.

I've been using two different types of glue, both from the Gorilla Glue company, to fix my various miniatures. The type of glue I use depends on how the miniature is broken and how quickly I need it to hold.

Gorilla Super Glue (blue cap) is a fast-drying liquid super/crazy glue that I use if I have a mini break during a game and need to fix it FAST. The only thing I don't like about this glue is that it can be messy and it will leave a white haze/frost after a few hours on the area of the mini that was glued if you use too much and any glue is left exposed to air.

Gorilla Super Glue Gel (green cap) is a fast -- but not quite as fast -- super glue in gel form. This is MUCH easier to apply because you have more control over the amount and placement of the glue since it's a thick gel and not a runny liquid. Since you can prevent excess spillage there isn't as much of a problem with the haze/frost issue ... but it takes a little more time to dry (15-30 seconds for a "relatively" reliable quick set compared to 5-10 seconds for the liquid Gorilla Super Glue).

Since I'm based here in the U.S., I also appreciate that the Gorilla Glue company is based in Ohio.

I use two types of glue after years of trying different things on minis. I use Zap-a-gap for any type of quick super glue type fixes. It's less brittle than super glue and works great.

Zap-a-gap IS superglue. Anything that says cyanoacrylate is superglue.

Plastic glue/polystyrene cement is also good if it works (Can anyone confirm it works on the plastics used for X-wing models?)

A year ago one of my T-65 X-wing cannons popped off at the joint with the wing. I reattached it with plastic glue and it's still holding.

I don't know how well it would work on the base/peg material.

Loctite 401. Find an engineer and ask them to get a sample for you from work... or buy some off amazon etc. Its my go to after seeing what it is capable of. Go bag, backpacking kit, plastic crack, around the home; etc.

Krazy glue gel with precision tip. My wife scoffs at my particularity.

I like loctite gel myself. (or whatever it's been rebranded to now). Plastic glue/polystyrene cement is also good if it works (Can anyone confirm it works on the plastics used for X-wing models?)

Plastic cement has been ineffective at repairing my TIEs.

Most Super Glue types are too brittle. It snaps with little pressure again. Zap a Gap is best. Sometimes it's good to mix with the E6000 glue as the gel glue gets a bit bendy and allows for some flexibility.

If plastic cement isn't working, you have 2 options.

1) gel based glue (maybe mixed with cement)

2) pin the model. That involves brass rods and a hand drill. Find a nearby 40k guy to help you. Otherwise, just buy a new Tie Fighter. It will cost you about the price of the Tie Fighter blister to get the hand drill and brass rods if you don't already have them. Any Warhammer modeller should be able to do it pretty easy, though.

Using something like Green Stuff might do it, but it would have to be painted. If you don't already own some, then it's just about as cheap to buy a new blister.

Use tape.

I tried Gorilla super glue in gel form on a couple of pegs a few days ago and it worked great.

My Misthunter dropped its peg after maybe a week. I used basic super glue and it popped off again the next time I used it. Tried Gorilla Glue Gel, and it's held for months now. Just my two cents.

Revell 39604 Contacta Professional Glue 25g

The good thing about this modelbuilder (plastic) glue is that it takes some time to dry while giving you a light, but sufficient adhesion. Makes fixing positioning of broken guns or wings a piece of cake as you can easily adjust things with all the time in the world. Another plus of this glue is that you rarely get into problems with discolorations
The "bad" thing is that you should expect a 24 hour delay before you can start using the model again, it takes some time to dry out.

Loctite 401 should be nice if you need a quick fix, which is an instant adhesive and should be handled with a lot more care. But well, for instant fixes you naturally want instant adhesives.
Another downside of Loctite 401 can be discolorations. Though as far as I know this is not an issue with X-Wing models.

edit: Oh and as some people seem to have issues with the glued points getting brittle with time, the usual model builder glue should last for years without problems, my own broken models are fixed now for 9 months, as long as you give it enough time to dry out, it should at stay fixed longer than you can expect from the original models. ;-)