This is both my first kitbash, and first painting job. I've basically remade D503's Yavaris in form, the Paintjob for all my rebels are inspired by the Progenitors from Homeworld. More shots when I get back home from work.

I know it needs a wash, but I'm nervous about screwing up what I've already done here, so I'm hesitant.

This is both my first kitbash, and first painting job. I've basically remade D503's Yavaris in form, the Paintjob for all my rebels are inspired by the Progenitors from Homeworld. More shots when I get back home from work.

I know it needs a wash, but I'm nervous about screwing up what I've already done here, so I'm hesitant.

Just use a fresh pot of nulin oil, or mix your wash thin if you make your own. Neb Bs are small enough you will be able to get the entire thing washed in one go befor any one part stats to dry. If it looks to heavy, just blow really hard on it, like we used to do to get Nintendo games to work.

This is both my first kitbash, and first painting job. I've basically remade D503's Yavaris in form, the Paintjob for all my rebels are inspired by the Progenitors from Homeworld. More shots when I get back home from work.

I know it needs a wash, but I'm nervous about screwing up what I've already done here, so I'm hesitant.

Just use a fresh pot of nulin oil, or mix your wash thin if you make your own. Neb Bs are small enough you will be able to get the entire thing washed in one go befor any one part stats to dry. If it looks to heavy, just blow really hard on it, like we used to do to get Nintendo games to work.

Just use a fresh pot of nulin oil, or mix your wash thin if you make your own. Neb Bs are small enough you will be able to get the entire thing washed in one go befor any one part stats to dry. If it looks to heavy, just blow really hard on it, like we used to do to get Nintendo games to work.

Add a drop of dish soap to your wash (on a pallette, not the bottle) and a drop of water. It will flow over flat surfaces much better and won't stain them.

I will try this on Wednesday (my next painting day; which is when my third corvette and my AF arrive). I appreciate it. thanks .

On a related note, has anyone ever tried using the decals that came in the old pocketmodels game, yet?

66th Guard Fighter Wing "Vampire FOrce"

Is that a japanese Mogami class heavy cruiser in the background as support ???

66th Guard Fighter Wing "Vampire FOrce"

Is that a japanese Mogami class heavy cruiser in the background as support ???

Yes that's Suzuya in the background

Hey Vykes, here's a closeup of the squadrons I've done so far. I really like the mottled look you pulled off on that MC80.

This is both my first kitbash, and first painting job. I've basically remade D503's Yavaris in form, the Paintjob for all my rebels are inspired by the Progenitors from Homeworld. More shots when I get back home from work.

I know it needs a wash, but I'm nervous about screwing up what I've already done here, so I'm hesitant.

Nice, I like the colour. Do you have a Neb-B2 to show as well?

For the wash, just slap on GW 'nuln oil' and optionally patches of brown ink. After that, highlight (not drybrush) carefully with the original colour. The only thing you can really do wrong is to do the highlighting before the wash/ink dries.

For gold areas, use tinny tin and then drybrush lightly with gold or bronze. Gold and bronze are very powerful colours, and easily overpower the balance of a model if used in anything more than tiny amounts.

That is the brightest gold I dare go, and even then I deliberately painted this ship within the constraints of the Emperors Children colour scheme of pink/purple, gold and white which is about a perfect combination of colours as possible.

SO many lovely paintjobs.

As a matter of fact:

I actually used a copper in the same way you used your gold on the CR-90s, but looking at it now, you are completely right: they came out a bit glaring:

I'm afraid I don't have any nuln oil lying around and my bank account is a bit stretched until next month. I will probably experiment with using a very diluted warm black and see what happens.

For those not in the know: here's what inspired this theme.

My Latest Commission...

I don't have an exact timing on this one, but it was just over 3 Man hours of paint time...

I apologise for the Blurry pictures... But it was mostly canon paint schemes, with a bit of Crazy where there either a boring or non-existant scheme...

Difficult to see at this angle, but "Wedge" is actually Red Squadrons 1, 2 and 3 (2 being Wedge), and "Luke" is 4, 5 and 6, with the proper Red 5 as the middle craft. Also included is Red Tycho, and Classic Gold Dutch, with Blue Ion Engines at request. The Keyan is a nice RoTJ Dagger Squadron.

Mauler Mithel is sporting flames on the Top of his Cockpit, with Major Rhymer having an Explosion Motif on his Side panels... Howlrunner sports a very stylish Red Imperial Symbol on her Side Panels, while Vader has the Blue-Grey Tint over the Grey Tints... Soontir, as always, shows that Bloodstripes are very slimming.

Canon Falcon, Outrider, Havoc and Mouldy Crow... Engine glows are the best part of these, so its a terrible picture.

And Rounding them out... Boba in Slave One, Dengar in Punishing One, IG-88 in the IG-2000 and Bossk in the Hound's Tooth.

So yes, about 3, maybe 3 and a half hours of work in here... Were an absolute pleasure to paint.

This clears off the commission plate until the next one arrives, so now I need to hunt down some Emery boards so I can smooth out this Liquid Green stuff on my MC80 to get rid of that join line down its flanks...

Can someone explain the logic of painting the fins black to stand out more.,I get the base but why the clear fin? The ships go from being suspended to anchored.

It depends on your Background. If you have a mostly Black Background, for example, on a Black Starmap Gaming Table, then they "glare" less under Photography and Lights, and actually look more suspended.

Yup, on a starfield gaming table a black stem blends more than a clear plastic stem.

I actually bought a 3rd Imperial Fighter pack and I've yet to start on it... Can't recall what was the colour scheme that I was aimg for.... >_<

You always manage something interesting, I have faith you'll deliver great results again!

so, untill i can get pictures up of my two new ships, ill post some of my older ones

Here we start with the Vic's in order from left to right we have the Yamato, the Warlord, the Corrupter and the Vigilance.

with a close up of the Warlord

Next spotlights the gladiators with Demolisher and a cloaked Insideous

Moving up to ISD's

top to bottom we have the Chimera, The Admonitor, and a as of yet unpainted Imortal

And lastly 3 unnamed raiders

I am about half way finished but I couldn't wait anymore to share my MC80 Liberty custom. Hope to finish it by the weekend so it can see some action.

Here's an older photo. I need to get some updates with the new Raiders, ISDs, and the new/improved TIE fighters. Until then, here's a placeholder!

I believe this was *right* before Massing at Sullust.

As a matter of fact:

I actually used a copper in the same way you used your gold on the CR-90s, but looking at it now, you are completely right: they came out a bit glaring:

I'm afraid I don't have any nuln oil lying around and my bank account is a bit stretched until next month. I will probably experiment with using a very diluted warm black and see what happens.

For those not in the know: here's what inspired this theme.

Bring the Sajuuk-Khar to bear!

When I finish what people consider my ISD abomination i will post it up. . . So far people just hate on it. . .

I am about half way finished but I couldn't wait anymore to share my MC80 Liberty custom. Hope to finish it by the weekend so it can see some action.

Large ship base or medium? Liking this.

It appears to be on a standard MC80 Command Cruiser base.

So. Large.

I found this picture while browsing my picture library, gives a different view...

I'd really love to learn how to take non-crappy photos...

D503, Norsehound - here be my attempt at a wash (bottom is "before", top is "after")