I have been amassing a rather substantial collection of X-Wing models as I want to be able to host game nights where players can play anything from small games, up to games worth 1000's of points, and I want pmayers to have the ability to build almost any kind of squad they want, despite the restrictions their own collection may limit them to.

The table I'm designing is going to be 9'x 4'6". This way I can have up to two games at once, with standard size games still allowing enough boarder space for cards, tokens, templates, beer, etc, etc, etc... I already have two, vynil, 3'x 3' star maps, and plan to acquire two 4'x 4' maps, and a 4'6"x 4'6" map. Also, I am going to paint the entire surface of the table as a star field. This way, as long as we are not playing a huge game that uses up the whole table, we can play two games at once with each having three different options for playing surface size.

For when players don't want to; play standard games, choose a specific mission, or make up their minds as to what to play, I am also creating a random game specifics generator that will determine points for squad size, mission to be played, and random restrictions that could produce one, or both, players to have to spend points on specific types of ships that they may not normally use, should the randomly generated mission be a standard, straightforward style game.

My biggest dilemma is this;

I have never played any games over 150 points, and the 150 point games I have played were on a 3'x 3' map which felt a little small. What size of play surfaces would you recommend for games of specific point sizes? For my random game generator I was thinking something along these parameters...

Points match size Play area

----------------------------------------------------

90, 100, 110, 120 - 3'x 3'

130, 140, 150, 160 - 3'6"x 3'6"

170, 180, 190, 200 - 4'x 4'

210, 220, 230, 240 - 4'6"x 4'6"

Any advice you may have towards my 'points - play area' chart, or anything else that may improve my gaming set up would be most appreciated. That includes advice on random mission generating.

Thank you for your time.

Epic play (and armada!). Require 6x3. With space for cards say 7x3 play area to be roomy.

Epic play (and armada!). Require 6x3. With space for cards say 7x3 play area to be roomy.

Cool. I've started an Armada collection (have only played the beginner scenario once with the spouse so far), and have 2 of each Epic ship, but haven't even had the chance to play any of them yet. So not really keen on space requirements for the use of either yet. Will keep those numbers in mind.

Making the play area deeper doesn't really make the game better - it just means more turns of maneuvering before engagement. Just make the play area wider to add more points. That's what Epic does - standard Epic is 3' x 6' and some of the cinematic scenarios are 3' x 4' or similar.

I don't know if I can offer any good advice BUT am willing to come over and help play-test

Up to 150, stick with 3x3!

Epic up to 400 or so, stick with 3x6!

Beyond 400, go as big as your table allows!

I have a 5x9 table and thats what we do!

Have you considered getting three of these babies?

You get a 5x7 table with all three setup. That is what I have in my Parlor.

This is what two of my tables does. Hugeness with the third table... you have a EPIC field for real.

Or you can just setup one table and still have a fun little chase threw the asteroids game running from edge to edge long0ways.

Table height: what are you doing about that? The bigger the board, the more time you'll spend standing to perform maneuvers. Bar stool height then becomes important to avoid backbreaking pain and exhaustion.

Table height: what are you doing about that? The bigger the board, the more time you'll spend standing to perform maneuvers. Bar stool height then becomes important to avoid backbreaking pain and exhaustion.

I stand, and just take little breaks. The in my own house way of play is the best way IMO.

am thinking about building either a 3x7 4x7 or 4x8 foot table.. leaning toward 4x7 because it seems the most functional and can host two normal games with side areas for card storage. I don't like nor want them hidden on some under shelf. 3x7 is the most space saving obviously while 4x8 means I can use a single plywood top and not have to make any cuts. I also have a 4x4 mat that obviously fits on the 4' tables better. (I have normal mats as well) however when the tables are at standard height the excess overhangs make it harder to move ones ships at the distant sides. So I am also planning to make the table much taller and use bar stools for chairs. (less bending over)... Also I plan on making it beefy so you can lean on it or accidently bump it with out stuff flying everywhere! like the LGS cheap magic card tables that we have to keep sliding together just so it will hold ONE 3x6 mat!! lol now the two big problems are how do I make it nice enough so that I can replace my Dinning room table!! lol or how can I make it folding AND beefy enough to set up in my "war room" ?

Making the play area deeper doesn't really make the game better - it just means more turns of maneuvering before engagement. Just make the play area wider to add more points. That's what Epic does - standard Epic is 3' x 6' and some of the cinematic scenarios are 3' x 4' or similar.

Making the play area deeper doesn't really make the game better - it just means more turns of maneuvering before engagement. Just make the play area wider to add more points. That's what Epic does - standard Epic is 3' x 6' and some of the cinematic scenarios are 3' x 4' or similar.

Good point. Probably just go with 9'x 4'. Save extra plywood cutting and more walking room.

I don't know if I can offer any good advice BUT am willing to come over and help play-test

If you live close enough, stop on by. All will be welcome!

Have you considered getting three of these babies?

You get a 5x7 table with all three setup. That is what I have in my Parlor.

Actually, I have looked at those. However, I plan on having an under shelf built into my table for all my Necromunda and Mordheim terrain. If I didn't need to create that storage space than I probably would have went that route. Thanks for the idea!

Table height: what are you doing about that? The bigger the board, the more time you'll spend standing to perform maneuvers. Bar stool height then becomes important to avoid backbreaking pain and exhaustion.

I was thinking about a 3' high top. Should be easy enough for most to easily lean over the middle of the table and still keep lots of room for my under shelf. Some of my Necromunda terrain is pretty tall and requires about 2' of shelf clearance. Also, I want the shelf at least a foot off the ground so it's contents aren't accidentally getting kicked. For seating, probably adjustable height, padded stools with back rests.

Came here expecting pictures of super sweet paint jobs, custom furniture, slick work stations, spiffy display cases, and a beer fridge. Got a discussion on just tables. Feeling ever so slightly cheated.

My game table started life as a 5'x9' sheet of 1" plywood and was used as a Ping Pong table! Ping Pong tables are great wargame tables, however a tad low for full use! My game plan is to buy kitchen counters and use the game table as a to. This will increase the height over the current legs which are regulation ping pong table.

I also do historical wargaming, ancient and WWII and make use of every inch of space for those. XWing exclusive player could probably stick with 4x8.

Get a good sized table, 7x4 I'd say. Possibly 8x4, to have room to throw dice as well without knocking stuff over or to have 2 games of 3x3 side by side.

Good lighting, not too harsh. You'll want to be able to read the cards and baseplates but you don't want any glare.

Dustfree display shelves for the shinies not on the board.

Possibly 8x4, to have room to throw dice as well without knocking stuff over or to have 2 games of 3x3 side by side.

If you use a dice cup or a dice tower, then you never have to worry about that.

I really like 150 on the standard mat size.6x3 would be too vast, imo

Possibly 8x4, to have room to throw dice as well without knocking stuff over or to have 2 games of 3x3 side by side.

If you use a dice cup or a dice tower, then you never have to worry about that.

True, and yet, it doesn't give you the same feel as throwing the dice yourself. Just like the app, it's just not the same. I, and others I know, dislike not throwing the dice ourselves to the point where during a game of King of New York my brother in law and his wife only grudgingly allow their 5 year old to help them by throwing the dice. .

Get a good sized table, 7x4 I'd say. Possibly 8x4, to have room to throw dice as well without knocking stuff over or to have 2 games of 3x3 side by side.

Good lighting, not too harsh. You'll want to be able to read the cards and baseplates but you don't want any glare.

Dustfree display shelves for the shinies not on the board.

I have 12' of wall covered with DVD shelving for displaying all my models. Easy access and close enough to the table to put things away as they are removed from play, but not so close as to be bumped into while playing. My room is 32'x 12'6" with 3 evenly spaced ceiling light fixtures (each holds 3 bulbs, which I have LED bright whites mounted) so there is very good lighting.

Also have a 4'6"x 8' slate pool table at the far end for people to play while awaiting their turn, should it ever occur. Plus, 32" flat screen I'm mounting on the wall so we can have Star Wars on in the background.

was thinking today that I might build a table with a "leaf system" so I can adjust it from 3'x4' to 3'x6 or perhaps even to 4x4 or 4x8 depending on how I lay the planks/leafs.. I need to do some sketching!!

was thinking today that I might build a table with a "leaf system" so I can adjust it from 3'x4' to 3'x6 or perhaps even to 4x4 or 4x8 depending on how I lay the planks/leafs.. I need to do some sketching!!

My last games table I had I built like that. A buddy had an old, 8 place dinning table he was tossing out and a

I stole the sliders off of it. Build it 6'x4' with a 2' leaf. Only problem was I wanted lots of weight for stability so I went way to heavy on the wood. Made the thing sag in the middle with the leaf in. Always had to prop up the center with a support rod.That tables been gone for ten years now.

My suggestion; don't go heavy with sliders!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10204462905320675&set=a.10203916961792428.1073741837.1473175134&type=3&theater

The Knight Watch game room. Disagreements handled by armed combat....or a roll of the dice.

I made a game board from a 0.6mm sheet of medium density fibreboard and a 2m length of black upholstery vinyl. Glued the vinyl down and then added some plastic border strips cut to 3'x3' attached with thumb tacks. The MDF is rigid enough for stability and sitting on top of even a small table gives a good playing field. When the table is needed the battleboard just lifts off and stands upright against the wall. All up it cost me $25 to make. I only see two issues with it after using t for a while now, the edges of the vinyl need some gaffers electrical tape over them to stop lifting and things catching on it, easy enough to do, and the plastic edging strips sometimes catch the ship base template guide lugs, so I'm going to replace them with some narrow red or yellow tape.

my list for an x wing gaming room would be

• Table big enough for epic
• Bar stools for multiple players
• Second Table for stuff .... cards, ships, refreshmant etc
• Large flat screen and surround sound system to play the films on while you play
• Small fridge ... can double as second table
• Posters and decorations for atmosphere

well thats how we do it any way

I use two old flat hollow sliding closet doors. I spray glued some felt for a permanent non-slip surface. Play area is 6x8'. Have played 1000 point games with and without epics. I store them in the basement and lay them across my dining room table at game time.