I understand the idea of maybe doing the two damage in a roll, but his ability even with 3 damage is rather powerful. Working on Z-95s next.

Final version of Corran up. After seeing him ace several squadrons every time he shot with his previous text, we moved back to the overkill variation. Still does very well in later stage dog fights.

Small nitpick: Marek Stele's art is of Fel, not Stele.

Ya I couldn't find anything gunboat related that I liked. I figure Fel already has his own card so it is not a big deal. Was wondering when somebody would notice though felforlife

Ok, just got my Assault Frigate MkI built. Thought I would show some pics off for scale next to an AF MkII. The details on this are great. I will paint it as soon as possible.

Cool mod on that Mark II !

I couldn't handle the whale tail any longer...

Ok, thought I would do up a step by step paint guide for anyone wanting to try their hand at an Assault Frigate MkI model for their Armada games. I will update with pictures over the next few days as I go.

STEP 1 (Base Colours):

- After dish soap wash and scrub and assembly (which was very easy), basecoat your model with a suitable primer black or grey. In this case I used Chaos Black spray as it is the easiest to get in my area.

- Using GW Skavenblight Dinge as a base colour for the exposed superstructure, I covered any of these areas. There is no need to be careful at this stage.

- Next using Vallejo Green Grey (886), coat the armoured/paneled sections of the frigate. This time be more careful not to get it on your darker superstructure. Tiny imperfections between the colour joins can then be touched up or left, many will get covered in step 2.

Although nothing fancy, this step will really help any ship you are painting start to define critical detail that would otherwise be lost to the eye.

STEP 2 (Wash):

-Using a combo of equal parts GW Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade and Lamiha Medium mixed together and applied to the whole model. This will help blend the two areas of drastic colour together better, as well as form your deepest shade. You may apply more then one coat of this to areas you feel need to be darker. This ship has a single coat. The reason for mixing the brown and black is to give the impression of both shadow and grime that you will not get from a straight black ink wash.

You can either drybrush or hand paint the panels in this step, depends on how crisp you want your final product to look..

STEP 3 (Highlight hull panels):

-Using your base panel colour Green Grey, paint each panel with a 1/1 paint/water mix, making sure to avoid getting it into any of the deep panel lines you brought out with the wash. The water will help the coat spread over the surface evenly without brush lines. You may have to do more then one coat on larger panels. Alternatly you could drybrush the green grey on, but it will not look nearly as defined to the eye.

Note, I left the area around the port holes in the front hull darker. This is to make sure my light highlight I add later stands out.

Current revision of the Rebel/Imperial Dreadnaught ship card now up in original post. Enjoy. Point value was increased to 70 as we found the double brace over many playtests frequently made it harder to destroy then a victory class.

Also added final version of Assault Gunboat and E-wing . Updated images in their original posts.

Current revision of the Rebel/Imperial Dreadnaught ship card now up in original post. Enjoy. Point value was increased to 70 as we found the double brace over many playtests frequently made it harder to destroy then a victory class.

The Dreads averaged about 16-17 hits before they went down. So a tough nut to crack.

To compensate for its toughness, perhaps it should have an even higher command value of 4 to mimic its flaw of requiring a huge crew relative to its size to operate. With a more expensive slave-rigged version that has the 3 command value.

In addition to the technical drawbacks, Dreadnaught -class ships also required over 16,000 crewmembers to run at optimal performance—perhaps the highest crew per keel meter ratio of any modern starship . This high crew requirement put strains on recruitment efforts and turned supplying a Dreadnaught into a logistical nightmare. In comparison, slave-rigged Dreadnaughts reduced the complement requirements down to 2,200 crewmembers.

In order to keep its cost down this is an option. But all our current playtests revolve around a 3 command vessel. Consider my current versions of the ship the in service refits for both sides. I do intend to do the Katana/early Dreadnaughts as well. Waiting for wave II to see what additional light is shed with possible upgrades before moving that direction.

If you want Lord Tareq, give it a go with 4 command in a few games and let us know your opinion. Does the 4th command justify the cost reduction back to 66 pts?

Immobilizer 418 revision is up. (Interdictor Cruiser), just for fun. These are just screen captures, so forgive the skewed text on the bases, for some reason it distorts at certain sizes.

Immobilizer 418 revision is up. (Interdictor Cruiser), just for fun. These are just screen captures, so forgive the skewed text on the bases, for some reason it distorts at certain sizes.

Wes -- have you posted special rules for the Immobilizer? (I cannot seem to find them...)

Currently this is a dry run of the Immobilizer. I want to balance the ship itself before I start adding abilities. In the meantime Diablo has some great title cards that reflect some of the ships unique abilities. I am still trying to handle it as a defense upgrade card, like in my original concept. Get back to that soon.

Very cool -- I like what you've done with it so far

Ok, so the idea just came to me, so feel free to shread it to tiny bits, but...

The Immobilizer 418, in Canon, was designed to pull ships out of hyperspace (great for a ready made objective), or ( and this is the key) prevent them from entering hyperspace. If we assume that turn 6 ends with the Rebels or the losing player jumping to hyperspace, as a few battle reports suggest, than an Immobilizer could extend a game past turn 6, allowing the Imperial player additional time to hunt down those annoyingly speedy Rebel ships.

Just some random thoughts, commence hacking to bits.

It continues to be a popular idea cynanbloodbane, and not one that I am against. I am trying to tie it into being first or second player a little more in some way.

There's lots of terrible EU out there and I agree that Heir to the Empire is good enough to be worth adding to Armada.

Except for Thrawn. When I look at him, I can't help seeing Mr. Sinister in a Nazi costume.

Agree to disagree on Thrawn then lol. I really liked the character.

There's lots of terrible EU out there and I agree that Heir to the Empire is good enough to be worth adding to Armada.

Except for Thrawn. When I look at him, I can't help seeing Mr. Sinister in a Nazi costume.

Ok, so the idea just came to me, so feel free to shread it to tiny bits, but...

The Immobilizer 418, in Canon, was designed to pull ships out of hyperspace (great for a ready made objective), or ( and this is the key) prevent them from entering hyperspace. If we assume that turn 6 ends with the Rebels or the losing player jumping to hyperspace, as a few battle reports suggest, than an Immobilizer could extend a game past turn 6, allowing the Imperial player additional time to hunt down those annoyingly speedy Rebel ships.

Just some random thoughts, commence hacking to bits.

You mean like this one?

This one was a bit of a bear. The main problem (from a rules logic point of view) is that there are various circumstances under which an upgrade card might stop functioning, chiefly when the ship it's attached to is destroyed. At that point, if you're already in the 7th round, you no longer have any instructions on when to end the game.

I might reword it to something like "During the Status phase of the fifth round, you may discard this card instead of placing a round token." It's mechanically tighter, but also potentially more confusing.