Hi
I've been looking at this game since the creation of the website (new forums) and I'm kinda interested but yet I dont get what the game is about or any of that good stuff.
Could someone give me an overview of the game so that I can understand and decide if I want to get into it?
Thank You
Roxas
(Warning: i fail in english *sigh*)
its basically the representation of fighting games one on one fight.
in the mix, you have attacks, foundations assets, actions and characters. you NEED foundation to pass your cards since the more you play, the harder they are to play. If i can remember, there an article somewhere about that *goes look*
but to help me, any moar specific questions?
Captain Ren said:
(Warning: i fail in english *sigh*)
its basically the representation of fighting games one on one fight.
in the mix, you have attacks, foundations assets, actions and characters. you NEED foundation to pass your cards since the more you play, the harder they are to play. If i can remember, there an article somewhere about that *goes look*
but to help me, any moar specific questions?
I dont get the game in general. It's apparentely popular in my area but I've never seen the cards before. Anything would really be helpful.
Holy mother. It's popular in your area? You should take advantage of it and start playing.
The run down is basically this:
You have a character card, from a popular fighting game (Soul Calibur, Samurai Showdown, Darkstalkers, Street Fighter, etc.), and you use them to build a deck around. In this deck, you can have four (or five) types of cards. Your character has a hand size (number of you draw), Vitality (life), and Resource symbols (symbols you can choose to "run" off of, to build decks on.).
Ordered from most numerous in deck:
Foundations
Attacks
Actions
Assets
Split cards(I don't really count this as a type.)
Anywho, foundations are basically the "ground" that you build your fighting style upon (if we were talking fighting-wise). Foundations have abilities you can use, such as Enhances, Forms, and Responses. All three of which you can play at different times.
So basically, the goal is to deplete the other person's life from their starting vitality to 0 (or milling them out). You can do this using abilities, stalling, or just straight out attacking aggro-fest.
You can't really explain it in words though, you have to see and know what's going on. I suggest you give it a try. The most fun comes from building decks of your own with your favourite characters from your favorite games.
Surprisely it is. When I was looking for KH tournaments I found about 12 USF tournaments in my area for the next month ....
Ah I see. Well I may have to go to a tourney and watch this game and see how much fun it is.
The best idea for you would to be to get hold of a starter deck, because they contain the basic guide to playing the game. If you want suggestions, I'd say get hold of Sakura, Akuma or Sagat. It'd also help to get some boosters, as you're guaranteed a nice shiny card you can either use or trade with other players.
In short, get involved! It's the best way to start with UFS.
Well the reason I want to see it played first is because my money is tight right now and despite those nice game stop pay checks...yeah.
Then this games for you cause it's cost effective really you won't be paying much as you would in YuGioh,Magic,Pokemon etc....
Packs are like $3.99
Boxes: $75-$90 at your local store ( but if you want boxes at a price that you can go for ask "certain players where and they will tell you where to get your box for $60 and that's with shipping)
Starters are $10 and some change no matter where you go.
I hope this helps.
Yeah, this game makes more sense with visual aid. The damage aspect/goal of this game has already been adequately explained. Also, other players have reasonably explained the essence of this game, something that I have trouble with (I have never played a fighting video game).
If and when you build a deck, 30 of your minimum 60 cards should be foundations, and most decks nowadays don't play more than 12 attacks but you should play closer to 20 to actually be able to smash a few heads until you understand the nuances in playstyle and everything else. Generally speaking, most players will not play more than 4 cards with a 2 control check for the sake of consistently playing cards.
Below, I explain the general process of going through one of your turns. I would not expect you to understand all of it until you have done it for yourself or witnessed somebody else do it. Really, there are too many words needed to explain simple actions of the game:
As previously explained, at the beginning of each of your turns, you draw cards from your deck up to your character's hand size. Then, while you're not attacking and dealing with effects, you may play abilities or cards from your hand which is called playing a Form. In the case of a card ability, you would be playing a Form ability (technicalities are usually important in this game). To do so, you must first make sure that the card that you wish to play has at least one symbol that is on every other card you have played this turn as well as your character. It must be the same symbol on every card, and the vast majority of cards, including all characters, have 3 symbols. This mechanic of symbol-sharing limits what you can do with any given character and the cards that you can play with them, thus achieving a refreshing diversity (as opposed to a game like Yugioh where any deck can play any card). There are ways to move the cards that you have already played in a turn, which remain in any area called the "card Pool" until the end of your turn, before the end of your turn, but I won't go into that. The point is that this game gives you several options and ways to break its symbol- chaining restriction, as well as a few other restrictions.
Once you make sure that the card that you wish to play matches a symbol with all of your previously played cards in a turn and your character, you reveal it to your opponent (nothing special here) and then make a control check . For a control check, you discard the top card of your deck and you compare its control value , which becomes the value used as a control check , against the total difficulty of the card that you are trying to play. Total difficulty is determined by the difficulty value printed on the card that you are playing and +1 extra difficulty per card that you have already played that turn, called progressive difficulty . So once you have the total difficulty value and the control check value , you compare the two numbers. If they are equal, you have successfully played that card; if the control value is higher, then you have successfully played that card; if the control value is lower, then you must commit cards in order to pass the card that you are playing (i.e. pass equals play ) or else you fail the card and your turn is over. Every card that you commit adds +1 to your original control value. Cards may not be committed if they are already committed, and are readied during the Ready Step at the beginning of your turn. You cannot play the effect on a card while it is committed, unless certain circumstances dictate otherwise, but you can on ready cards. You may commit your Character for costs only , such as for playing a card or an ability that has a commit cost, and foundations too when passing a control check . On your turn, you keep on playing cards from your hand until you fail a card or decide to "pass" a Form, which does not mean to successfully play a Form in this instance but rather a discussion consciously made.
At the end of your turn, you clear your card pool of all cards in the reverse order that they were played in. Attacks that dealt damage may be added to your momentum , which can be used to pay for effects later on, or just discarded to your Discard Pile (your choice); whereas, attacks that did not deal damage may only be discarded to your Discard Pile . Foundations (and Assets) are added to your Staging Area ready (a condition previously discussed). Actions are discarded to your Discard Pile . As turns go by, you accumulate more and more foundations which allows you to accomplish more per turn by playing more cards or paying for (more) costed effects. When your turn is over, your opponent's turn begins, and they go through the same process that you went through.
Hope you gleaned something from all of that.
Well, one of the nicer parts financially is that you can do pretty well in UFS running off of commons, uncommons and starter exclusives. I'd say 2x any of the Domination SF starters and you'd be more or less in business. Each starter comes with 30 or so predetermined cards and 30 random cards of the element the deck runs off of, and all four SF starters run off resources (fire, all) that have some really good commons in the set that can show up in that random portion. And they each have at least 1 strong starter exclusive.
My suggestion if you can only do $20 would probably be 2x Sagat, but if you can spend $40 then 2x Sakura + 2x Ken, using Sakura as your charcter for the resulting All deck, seems like it could be really good. Plus it's usually nice to focus on one set at a time when you're starting out, and focusing on Domination while building an All deck wouldn't be bad at all as there aren't very many *great* All cards in the other recent sets anyway. (Fight or Flight, Lesser of Many Evils, perhaps Commitment to Excellence... that's about it -.-') Though there could very well be some goods coming in the next set with the new (and expected to be much better) designer having done some fixing up on it.
deathcritis1 said:
Then this games for you cause it's cost effective really you won't be paying much as you would in YuGioh,Magic,Pokemon etc....
Packs are like $3.99
Boxes: $75-$90 at your local store ( but if you want boxes at a price that you can go for ask "certain players where and they will tell you where to get your box for $60 and that's with shipping)
Starters are $10 and some change no matter where you go.
I hope this helps.
Ah so is the same prrice range as KH. CCG armory might have boxes for cheap then.
ctr2yellowbird said:
Yeah, this game makes more sense with visual aid. The damage aspect/goal of this game has already been adequately explained. Also, other players have reasonably explained the essence of this game, something that I have trouble with (I have never played a fighting video game).
If and when you build a deck, 30 of your minimum 60 cards should be foundations, and most decks nowadays don't play more than 12 attacks but you should play closer to 20 to actually be able to smash a few heads until you understand the nuances in playstyle and everything else. Generally speaking, most players will not play more than 4 cards with a 2 control check for the sake of consistently playing cards.
Below, I explain the general process of going through one of your turns. I would not expect you to understand all of it until you have done it for yourself or witnessed somebody else do it. Really, there are too many words needed to explain simple actions of the game:
As previously explained, at the beginning of each of your turns, you draw cards from your deck up to your character's hand size. Then, while you're not attacking and dealing with effects, you may play abilities or cards from your hand which is called playing a Form. In the case of a card ability, you would be playing a Form ability (technicalities are usually important in this game). To do so, you must first make sure that the card that you wish to play has at least one symbol that is on every other card you have played this turn as well as your character. It must be the same symbol on every card, and the vast majority of cards, including all characters, have 3 symbols. This mechanic of symbol-sharing limits what you can do with any given character and the cards that you can play with them, thus achieving a refreshing diversity (as opposed to a game like Yugioh where any deck can play any card). There are ways to move the cards that you have already played in a turn, which remain in any area called the "card Pool" until the end of your turn, before the end of your turn, but I won't go into that. The point is that this game gives you several options and ways to break its symbol- chaining restriction, as well as a few other restrictions.
Once you make sure that the card that you wish to play matches a symbol with all of your previously played cards in a turn and your character, you reveal it to your opponent (nothing special here) and then make a control check . For a control check, you discard the top card of your deck and you compare its control value , which becomes the value used as a control check , against the total difficulty of the card that you are trying to play. Total difficulty is determined by the difficulty value printed on the card that you are playing and +1 extra difficulty per card that you have already played that turn, called progressive difficulty . So once you have the total difficulty value and the control check value , you compare the two numbers. If they are equal, you have successfully played that card; if the control value is higher, then you have successfully played that card; if the control value is lower, then you must commit cards in order to pass the card that you are playing (i.e. pass equals play ) or else you fail the card and your turn is over. Every card that you commit adds +1 to your original control value. Cards may not be committed if they are already committed, and are readied during the Ready Step at the beginning of your turn. You cannot play the effect on a card while it is committed, unless certain circumstances dictate otherwise, but you can on ready cards. You may commit your Character for costs only , such as for playing a card or an ability that has a commit cost, and foundations too when passing a control check . On your turn, you keep on playing cards from your hand until you fail a card or decide to "pass" a Form, which does not mean to successfully play a Form in this instance but rather a discussion consciously made.
At the end of your turn, you clear your card pool of all cards in the reverse order that they were played in. Attacks that dealt damage may be added to your momentum , which can be used to pay for effects later on, or just discarded to your Discard Pile (your choice); whereas, attacks that did not deal damage may only be discarded to your Discard Pile . Foundations (and Assets) are added to your Staging Area ready (a condition previously discussed). Actions are discarded to your Discard Pile . As turns go by, you accumulate more and more foundations which allows you to accomplish more per turn by playing more cards or paying for (more) costed effects. When your turn is over, your opponent's turn begins, and they go through the same process that you went through.
Hope you gleaned something from all of that.
Wow, that was lot of info to process. The game seems alright, a little complicated from the reading, but I'm sure after I played a few rounds I'd get the hang of it
Thank you
Cetonis said:
Well, one of the nicer parts financially is that you can do pretty well in UFS running off of commons, uncommons and starter exclusives. I'd say 2x any of the Domination SF starters and you'd be more or less in business. Each starter comes with 30 or so predetermined cards and 30 random cards of the element the deck runs off of, and all four SF starters run off resources (fire, all) that have some really good commons in the set that can show up in that random portion. And they each have at least 1 strong starter exclusive.
My suggestion if you can only do $20 would probably be 2x Sagat, but if you can spend $40 then 2x Sakura + 2x Ken, using Sakura as your charcter for the resulting All deck, seems like it could be really good. Plus it's usually nice to focus on one set at a time when you're starting out, and focusing on Domination while building an All deck wouldn't be bad at all as there aren't very many *great* All cards in the other recent sets anyway. (Fight or Flight, Lesser of Many Evils, perhaps Commitment to Excellence... that's about it -.-') Though there could very well be some goods coming in the next set with the new (and expected to be much better) designer having done some fixing up on it.
Hmmm..I'm not sure I'm following with this "All" deck.
All is that symbol that's a red dot.
Oh, sorry -.-' "All" is one of the 12 resource symbols. (basically elements) The full ist is: Air, All, Chaos, Death, Earth, Evil, Fire, Good, Life, Order, Void, Water. Most decks use cards of one or two different symbols, as you can only choose one symbol to play cards off of on any given turn. (i.e. in a fire/water Rikuo deck you might play a string of water cards on turn one and a string of fire cards on turn two) Most cards have 3 symbols on them, so there's some flexibility in what kinds of decks can play a certain card. Each set has traditionally been heavy on 2-3 symbols and light on some others, though that may change with the new (better) designer now in place. In any case, Domination was particularly heavy on All and Fire, so if you were to focus on that one set you'd have a lot of options for building decks off either symbol. (or both) It so happens that two of the best attacks All has right now come as starter exclusives (2 copies per starter) in the Ken and Sakura decks, and Sakura is one of All's better characters, hence the suggestion of getting a pair of both and melding them.
Ah, okay. That sounds easy enough to understand.
Can someone tell me what games are in UFS, or if there will be any new ones coming soon?
vyexcel said:
Holy mother. It's popular in your area? You should take advantage of it and start playing.
The run down is basically this:
You have a character card, from a popular fighting game ( Soul Calibur, Samurai Showdown, Darkstalkers, Street Fighter, etc .), and you use them to build a deck around. In this deck, you can have four (or five) types of cards. Your character has a hand size (number of you draw), Vitality (life), and Resource symbols (symbols you can choose to "run" off of, to build decks on.).
Ordered from most numerous in deck:
Foundations
Attacks
Actions
Assets
Split cards(I don't really count this as a type.)
Anywho, foundations are basically the "ground" that you build your fighting style upon (if we were talking fighting-wise). Foundations have abilities you can use, such as Enhances, Forms, and Responses. All three of which you can play at different times.
So basically, the goal is to deplete the other person's life from their starting vitality to 0 (or milling them out). You can do this using abilities, stalling, or just straight out attacking aggro-fest.
You can't really explain it in words though, you have to see and know what's going on. I suggest you give it a try. The most fun comes from building decks of your own with your favourite characters from your favorite games.
This should answer your question Champ
TheChampIsHere said:
Can someone tell me what games are in UFS, or if there will be any new ones coming soon?
Penny Arcade (not standard-legal naymore, but loads of fun)
Street Fighter
Soul Calibur 3 (with 4 on the way)
SNK
-The King of Fighters 2006
-Samurai Showdown 5
Darkstalkers
ShadoWar (new intellectual property by the creator of UFS, Steve Horvath)
as for what's coming up, the God of War people gave UFS a positive reception (finally), so we have to wait and see what comes of that.
AHAHAHA I just found the old demo... not interactive but a recording of it. Thanks whoever saved this on Youtube lol
The link took me back to the homepage...
try right clicking and launching it in a new tab or window.
Just tried, it still sends me back to the home page.
Antigoth said:
try right clicking and launching it in a new tab or window.
Thats what I did and it sent me back to the home page.
Sorry guys... I'll get it reported to the webmaster as a link that needs fixing.
Also if your core hobby store carries ufs you should have a scout ask him/her to show the game with a demo and hopefully that will answer a lot of your questions.