Deep Cut's synthetic cloth is less slidey than PVC, about as light as felt.
Less slidy as in the mat moving on the table, or less slidy as in the miniatures moving if they are bumped? Cause the comparison video I saw was saying the cloth was more slidy than pvc? In that the miniatures move easier on the cloth (which I am not so keen on).
Also did you see my question about the black? Is it as black as you can get on pvc or are the colours more muted?
Edited by MaverickNZI find the deep cut cloth to cause the ships to slide less then PVC.
The black is muted compared to the black on GF9 pvc. I do not have a deep cut pvc.
I find the deep cut cloth to cause the ships to slide less then PVC.
The black is muted compared to the black on GF9 pvc. I do not have a deep cut pvc.
Thats for that, the black being muted is what I was worried about given the mat design I like is mostly starfield and black space.
I use a black felt table. Felt has glitter in it which looks like a star field. I added some larger stars with white paint and a fine brush. looks great and cost me five dollars.
I use a black felt table. Felt has glitter in it which looks like a star field. I added some larger stars with white paint and a fine brush. looks great and cost me five dollars.
You can usually find felt at the local fabric / craft store for about $2 to $3 (US) per square yard/meter.
Ive progressed with preparing the table
. Its still in design so what do you think might be missing/wrong?
- 4'2" x 6'2" top plate (transparent for visibility only) for 4x6 wargames/game mats and a little 1" boarder around it.
- Holes are ment for cup holders to be placed inside, not sure about using 1 or 2 of them on the short ends.
- drawers on the long ends fit the full hight of a rulebook (we use DIN A4 paper size over here in europe).
- drawers click in when drawn fully out or pushed fully in so that they dont accidentaly slide.
- drawers are quite flat under the table (space 0 to 2" adjustable) similar to a keyboard drawer
- drawers dont have any high corners so its just a flat board. maybe i should fix a board at theire backside coinciding with the tabletop edge if they are drawn out so cards dont slip down there?
- its meant for dining table hight, not couch hight.
In comparison to like this thing at geekchic.:
http://geekchichq.com/the-sultan-gaming-table.html
I think that a 4x6 space is already so large in even the small direction that you can not fully reach over it easily. Therefore i didnt want that fold out sides of the geek chich table which make the top dimension even bigger. I did want some space though to store cards and tokens and minis if you play a wargame on the full 4x6 surface which is usualy fully crowded with scenery in my case.
what about a small ~1/2" ledge around the table top so things dont slide down? probably more annoying for imparing armrest, no?
what do you think? improovements or suggestions before i have it produced?
Geez, madtulip!
You're making me green with absolute envy!
Wish I had the time, expertise, knowhow and resources to pull off what you're doing!
Incidentally, what are those round cut-outs? Cup holders?
Awesome!!
That looks awesome
Yea the round things are for cup holders. The design is realy simple. just 4 legs 7 boards of the right size and some of theese or smaller for the sides.:
with the old 5x7 ft just flat board i was realy annoyed that you coudnt fully reach over even the short side for all of the playpieces and you still didnt have enough space on the boarders around the 4x6 play area to place minis, dice and other stuff.
so any ideas what might be missing for compfortable gaming this time? hope this is not the half baked solution v2 but the final solution this time
.
That's really impressive, madtulip! Here's two suggestions that came to mind, one of which I think you already covered:
- Possibly skip the cup holders in the long side pull out segments; I suggest this only because of my own tendency to excitedly gesture and knock over drinks at the table. (I fixed this issue by keeping my drink outside 3' of me at all times.)
Leave the drawers with the 2" gap you mentioned, so that you can have all of your cards and tokens on the drawer, but still be able to push the drawers in so that you aren't reaching across them to move ships on the table.
Again, just my two cents, it would absolutely be something I can see myself building*!
*Provided I had space / time to do so without screaming toddlers.
I've made a 4x6 gaming table top to cover my existing dining room table. It hangs about 6 inches over all the way around and it was super easy to do. It's just a 3/4in thick piece of dense fiberboard that has been felt coated and secured with spray adhesive and staples. I painted lines for a 6 inch player area on both sides, and hash marks to indicate a 3x3 square in the center for home X-wing games.
Looks great DuskSong. Off to get my felt tomorrow.
Im using theese cupholders to hopefully prevent people from knocking things over by holding the glas/can in place.:
With the 2" hight of the drawers under the table plate i think thats a very good idea. Im not sure yet how heigh it has to be though. enough for an openen rulebook should be, but enough for standing 28mm minis is probably to much already as i also want to people on the opposing side of the table to see what kind of cards you have layed out there.
The felt is a very good idea. I already ordered 6 cloth samples (i.e. also "molton" (german name) cloth which is used for theatre curtains and some micro suede/ velours/ fake leather i.e.) to see which material would be right. I was thinking of doing one for the surface and a smaller one for each drawer. Not sure about stabling it yet as i want to keep it washable i think.
So i think now that i should skip a attaching a small rail around the top plate as it hinders arm placement to much and with a felt or similar things are not bound to slide that much anyway.
Btw Dusksong: I have the exact same chairs.
Not sure if anyone mentioned yet, but the new Star Wars Xwing mats just hit MM today (that was fast).
http://www.miniaturemarket.com/star-wars-x-wing-death-star-assault-playmat-preorder.html
Theese guys here do rubber mats with no texture, no wrinkles and not glossy.:
http://www.gamemat.eu/6x4-g-mats.html
check out the youtube videos on theire site and this image:.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/117963137@N08/13041855354/
Sadly they dont do 6x3 and no space art (yet i hope). I already asked that guy if they could produce that. Currently i like that material best.
Ill wait for theese. I contacted the guy running the shop and he said they will get 6x3 space themed mats with images from hubble telescope. i like the material and that it comes in 1 piece instead of 2.
edit: repaired qouted link:
Anyone have any ideas for a circular table top? I have a 54 inch diameter reversible gaming/dining table that I'd love to use for this, but I'm not sure if the dimensions would be up to snuff. Additionally I'd want to have some sort of circular mat to go on top, preferably with some sort of star field or something printed on it. Is it even possible to get something custom made like this?
Thanks for your thoughts.
Anyone have any ideas for a circular table top? I have a 54 inch diameter reversible gaming/dining table that I'd love to use for this, but I'm not sure if the dimensions would be up to snuff. Additionally I'd want to have some sort of circular mat to go on top, preferably with some sort of star field or something printed on it. Is it even possible to get something custom made like this?
Thanks for your thoughts.
You can have prints on fabric i.e. here.:
I would advice to use the board dimensions per rules though as things might get un balanced. i.e. in a melee army against a ranged type army balance directly depends on board and deployment zone sizes.
you could place a 4x6 ft (for most wargames) or 3x6 ft (for armada) MDF board on top of your round table when required. Dusksong posted a picture of such a setup on page 2 of this forum entry.
Edited by madtulip