Pretty much what the title says, was/is there a post of how to protect ones tiles?
Was/Is there a post of how to potect ones tiles?
I don't think I know what you are asking. Why would you want to protect specific tiles? I can understand protecting models, blocking LOS, etc., but protecting tiles does not seem like a necessary skill unless it includes protecting something in my previous list.
He may mean how to protect them during storage and/or so they don't get damaged or too worn with use. I've not seen anything about this, but I could have easily have missed it.
He's talking about protecting tiles from wear.
ScottieATF right, I was talking about protecting the tiles from taking damage from use, I did have a thought about giving them some varnishing.
The tiles do easily get worn when put together, I already have two tiles that had some of the printing coming of where they are being put together, just wanted to hear if anyone had done something to protect them and what they used and if there is something not to do.
Edited by WhisperI've seen people using clear nail polish to protect their tokens and terrain from Star Trek Attack Wing and it actually look like it worked.
I've seen people use oil paint pens to protect and decorate tokens. Somebody did that with tiles too, but they said they didn't do it with the puzzle connector portions out of fear that the added thickness would prevent them from fitting together.
Protecting tiles is definitely something to keep in mind. I'd like to hear others' thoughts as well. Maybe this is a good excuse to go out and get the second core: more dice, more figures for skirmish, replacement tiles ....
One of my concerns is which varnish to use if to use any varnish ad all, I don't want to damage the tiles when I'm trying to protect them.
The tile borders that are black probably won't be a big problem... I hope.
I'm planning to do the same thing that I've (and most of my gaming group) did with the X-Wing dials:
1) make a thinned dilution of PVA glue and water, aprox. 60:40
2) Use a brush to apply the dilution on all edges.
3) The glue dilution should be thick enough to "bead" on the edge while you're going round the edge of the tile but thin enough to be gradually "soaked" into the cardboard without making it wobbly.
This will make the tile edges wood hard and keeps them from fraying. None of my dials have suffered or needed second treatment