1.) Spell Timing.

We have been playing where spells are resolved in the order they are played. What is unclear is who can play spells first? If it is my turn do I get casting priority? Or is it just simply a matter of who ever is the quicker at declaring what they are doing?

2.) Armor use on the 'attack'.

I read a curious line in the standard rules book. In the section that defines weapons and armors it states that only one armor may be used during an "attack". Does this mean if you are attacking another player you may only use a helmet or a shield or an armor? Or does this mean any time you are in a battle with a creature or player you may only use 1?

3.) Random Spell.

The Lose Strength* and Lose Craft* effects of this spell are not clear. The asterick reads "All but strength and craft values and those gained from followers and objects". What exactley does this mean? You lose all your strength points you've gained from cashing in trophies and/or pools of strength?

4.) Invisibility/Evade.

Do spells/abilities that let you 'evade' let you avoid spells and the crown of command effect or no?

5.) "Gaining" spells.

When a druid with 6+ craft lands on a woods region he gains his full compliment of spells. Does that mean I draw 3 spell cards regardless of how many I am holdinig? Or does it mean that I draw enough spell cards to bring the total in my hand up to 3?

Thanks for any help in advance.

I am not the most knowledged on rules, but have played a long time. I will give it a shot.

1. I believe a player can cast only 1 spell on another players turn. There are certain circumstances where the 1st one to cast a spell, gets the spell off. But there are many spells where there is a certain time it can be cast. Thus limiting when they can be cast.

2. We always played you can use 1 armor, 1 shield, 1 helmet. And you can use 1 of each of these, not just 1 from these.

3. value is the starting quota/stat. This is where the warhorse and monk are now limited. But this also is effected in other circumstances just like those spells you listed.

4. I don't think you can evade the Command spell, but I think you can counter it.

5. You can never have more than 3 spells, except for items/followers which hold one for you (that I know of).

I am 100% certain your answers will be given with more detail and fullness by others soon.

1.) Spell Timing.

We have been playing where spells are resolved in the order they are played. What is unclear is who can play spells first? If it is my turn do I get casting priority? Or is it just simply a matter of who ever is the quicker at declaring what they are doing?

It's such a difficult question I've tried to answer many times, but there are no rules to quote so it's difficult to back up. All that I can suggest is "do not cast Spells in response to other Spells, with the exception of Counterspell, Reflection and Spell Scorch".

Normally once a players says he casts a Spell, it shall immediately be resolved, so who yells first gets priority. Then, other Spells can be played to counter the effect (e.g. Preservation against Life Tap) or to alter it (e.g. Weakness on a character that has just cast Psyonic Blast), always respecting the casting conditions of course. This will work well, normally, but there are certain situations when casting Spells will lead to big confusion.

2.) Armor use on the 'attack'.

I read a curious line in the standard rules book. In the section that defines weapons and armors it states that only one armor may be used during an "attack". Does this mean if you are attacking another player you may only use a helmet or a shield or an armor? Or does this mean any time you are in a battle with a creature or player you may only use 1?

"Attack" is the word used for "combat" in Talisma. The rulebook, page 10, features "ATTACKS" as the main title of the combat section. If your read the rules, you'll notice that "attack" is used as a general word meaning any battle or psychic combat, either against creatures or players. There's a limitation of only 1 Weapon and 1 Armour for each "attack"; each Weapon/Armour says whether it can be used in battle or psychic combat, but the limitation is always 1 W / 1 A.

3.) Random Spell.

The Lose Strength* and Lose Craft* effects of this spell are not clear. The asterick reads "All but strength and craft values and those gained from followers and objects". What exactley does this mean? You lose all your strength points you've gained from cashing in trophies and/or pools of strength?

You lose all cones of Strength/Craft you have gained during the game; in other words, you're back to your starting value, but bonuses from Objects and Followers still apply.

4.) Invisibility/Evade.

Do spells/abilities that let you 'evade' let you avoid spells and the crown of command effect or no?

No, you can only evade creatures and characters. Just check the rulebook, page 14 for a list of what can be evaded.

5.) "Gaining" spells.

When a druid with 6+ craft lands on a woods region he gains his full compliment of spells. Does that mean I draw 3 spell cards regardless of how many I am holdinig? Or does it mean that I draw enough spell cards to bring the total in my hand up to 3?

You can acquire Spells only if your Craft allows to have more Spells than you already have, according to the table on page 13 of the Rulebook. Gaining Spells and then discard down to your max. number of Spells is not allowed, except when explicitly stated by a card.

double post

Hello,

The Warlock is right about everything regarding your questions but I would like to add a few points:

2) Choose one weapon and one armor before attack dice are rolled in battle or psychic combat. Apply the effects of only the items you chose, and ignore the effects of unused weapons and armor.

3) When you lose Strength or lose Craft, you lose only the "red or blue cones." These are your "counters." Your "value" (number printed on character sheet) and "modifiers" (number printed on card") are unaffected. Remember your total Strength and Craft is the sum of your value, counters, and modifiers. If you don't have cones, you can't lose them! Thus, your Strength and Craft can never drop below their base values.

I see many people at the start of the game take red and blue cones equal to the number printed on their sheet. That's wrong! Those cones are only in addition to your starting values. You take green cones for your life value, because that drops below the starting value all the time. But when it comes to S/C, the cones are only for points in addition to your starting values.

I see many people at the start of the game take red and blue cones equal to the number printed on their sheet. That's wrong! Those cones are only in addition to your starting values. You take green cones for your life value, because that drops below the starting value all the time. But when it comes to S/C, the cones are only for points in addition to your starting values.

It might be wrong but it speeds up calculation. Since losing Strength/Craft happens less often than checking your total attributes, I prefer to have my full Strength/Craft attribute expressed by a pile of cones and to add only Strength/Craft obtained by Objects and Followers. When the attribute drops to its starting value, I just have to remember it cannot drop below the printed value.

In 5-6 player games, the cones provided with the game might be insufficient at a certain point, so it's probably better to use the standard setup and not take cones equal to starting value.

We use dice, and we count the starting value in the dice.

Hello,

The Warlock is right about everything regarding your questions but I would like to add a few points:

2) Choose one weapon and one armor before attack dice are rolled in battle or psychic combat. Apply the effects of only the items you chose, and ignore the effects of unused weapons and armor.

I wanted to add a thought on this as well. You always have the right to choose one weapon and one armor but you don' always make an active choice for one reason or another. In my gaming group we always put the cones that are derived from objects or followers on the card they come from and not beside the character card with the cones you gain from trophies etc. As you only can use one weapon at the time you place a cone on the weapon your using ( more if needed, of course). If you don't move the cone before rolling the die than you can't change. No discussion, no exceptions! If you forgot to change from the runesword to the holy lance when facing a dragon than you just have to live with it.

As for armor I think it's safe to assume the character is using the best armor its carrying without marking it in any way.

I see many people at the start of the game take red and blue cones equal to the number printed on their sheet. That's wrong! Those cones are only in addition to your starting values. You take green cones for your life value, because that drops below the starting value all the time. But when it comes to S/C, the cones are only for points in addition to your starting values.

It might be wrong but it speeds up calculation. Since losing Strength/Craft happens less often than checking your total attributes, I prefer to have my full Strength/Craft attribute expressed by a pile of cones and to add only Strength/Craft obtained by Objects and Followers. When the attribute drops to its starting value, I just have to remember it cannot drop below the printed value.

In 5-6 player games, the cones provided with the game might be insufficient at a certain point, so it's probably better to use the standard setup and not take cones equal to starting value.

We play with kids so to make it easy to help them out we use these for showing starting value and item buffs.

http://www.rolcogames.com/product/34+poker+chips/37

I see many people at the start of the game take red and blue cones equal to the number printed on their sheet. That's wrong! Those cones are only in addition to your starting values. You take green cones for your life value, because that drops below the starting value all the time. But when it comes to S/C, the cones are only for points in addition to your starting values.

It might be wrong but it speeds up calculation. Since losing Strength/Craft happens less often than checking your total attributes, I prefer to have my full Strength/Craft attribute expressed by a pile of cones and to add only Strength/Craft obtained by Objects and Followers. When the attribute drops to its starting value, I just have to remember it cannot drop below the printed value.

In 5-6 player games, the cones provided with the game might be insufficient at a certain point, so it's probably better to use the standard setup and not take cones equal to starting value.

And I forgot to say that the reason why many people play that way is Black Industries 4th edition, which instructed to take counters equal to the characters' starting values. I'm not sure if this was the way to go in 2nd edition too, because I've lost the original rules a long time ago.

In second addition it was, you took chits equal to the starting value. Of course with the new charter cards, the starting value is a lot easier to read.

...

I see many people at the start of the game take red and blue cones equal to the number printed on their sheet. That's wrong! Those cones are only in addition to your starting values. You take green cones for your life value, because that drops below the starting value all the time. But when it comes to S/C, the cones are only for points in addition to your starting values.

We know it's wrong but do it anyways, it's just easier to count that way. We even put cones on cards that make you gain strength or craft and on one weapon.

I think that's fine as a reminder (saves a lot of time) but just be careful you don't drop below your base values! You won't as a veteran, but I've seen newer players do it..